SingleSeat
Active Hunter
Real quick, here's my design for the "window frame."
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SingleSeat's Rangefinder (Scratch-built) *pics*
- Thread starter SingleSeat
- Start date
slave1driver
Hunter
Truly stunning work my man. I painted up my rf, put the scratches on it, and was generally happy with it until I saw your work. I'll never look at my rf the same now.
Great job! I have "rf" envy!
Great job! I have "rf" envy! 
Nutcore
Active Hunter
slave1driver said:Truly stunning work my man. I painted up my rf, put the scratches on it, and was generally happy with it until I saw your work. I'll never look at my rf the same now.
Haha yeah me too, I thought I was all cool because i recast a DP RF in clear resin, but now I might as well throw it out cuz im gonna attemp to build one of these puppies. Thanx single!
SingleSeat
Active Hunter
oops, I had to re-post the correct "window frame" diagram above. If you're looking, get this updated picture. The notches were made with the dremel cutting wheel -very carefully-
SingleSeat
Active Hunter
Hold on Nutcore, more diagrams are coming…
Sorry for the break everyone, and thanks for all the support! Ok, I’m no draftsman, but I hope this gives everyone a start on the clear plastic part. As with any dimensions I provide, they’re all pretty flexible since we’re not dealing with tolerances on the space shuttle or anything. Band saws, table saws, they’re not precision cutting tools. Allow plenty of room to “sneak up” on the right dimensions. Make the dimensions work for you…each one of these RFs quickly turns into a one-off custom part. The disc sander allows a lot of guess work to become perfection. Don’t try to make the perfect cut the first time. Go slowly. A pencil line can always be erased from either the plastic or the contact paper.
Which ever part you choose to make, remember how it’s going to fit into the RF. The ESB part mounts proudly in the RF while the ROTJ part is tucked somewhat. Notice the ROTJ version vertex is just barely inside the RF's underside curve. Reference, reference, reference! If you combine the Hyperdyne kit and the ROTJ clear version, you’ll have to make your own guess as to making the inside[back] cuts since I haven’t made a Jedi version with the Hyperdyne kit yet. Yet don’t anticipate a loose fit for anything…that’s the whole idea, it’s supposed to be tight.
Even if you had this kind of part machined by a custom plastics company, not only might it become very pricey, but I think you might lose some of the finish from hand sanding that makes this piece so believable.
If you do attempt this project, feel free to PM me with questions. It took a lot of experimenting to get this far...I’ve gone through all the R&D so you don’t have to.
Sorry for the break everyone, and thanks for all the support! Ok, I’m no draftsman, but I hope this gives everyone a start on the clear plastic part. As with any dimensions I provide, they’re all pretty flexible since we’re not dealing with tolerances on the space shuttle or anything. Band saws, table saws, they’re not precision cutting tools. Allow plenty of room to “sneak up” on the right dimensions. Make the dimensions work for you…each one of these RFs quickly turns into a one-off custom part. The disc sander allows a lot of guess work to become perfection. Don’t try to make the perfect cut the first time. Go slowly. A pencil line can always be erased from either the plastic or the contact paper.
Which ever part you choose to make, remember how it’s going to fit into the RF. The ESB part mounts proudly in the RF while the ROTJ part is tucked somewhat. Notice the ROTJ version vertex is just barely inside the RF's underside curve. Reference, reference, reference! If you combine the Hyperdyne kit and the ROTJ clear version, you’ll have to make your own guess as to making the inside[back] cuts since I haven’t made a Jedi version with the Hyperdyne kit yet. Yet don’t anticipate a loose fit for anything…that’s the whole idea, it’s supposed to be tight.
Even if you had this kind of part machined by a custom plastics company, not only might it become very pricey, but I think you might lose some of the finish from hand sanding that makes this piece so believable.
If you do attempt this project, feel free to PM me with questions. It took a lot of experimenting to get this far...I’ve gone through all the R&D so you don’t have to.
Trooper TK409
Active Hunter
Wow and Holy Cow! I'm just trying to digest such level of detail AND the fact that you took time to do a tutorial!
That's so cool it's making my tummy hurt.
That's so cool it's making my tummy hurt.
Darth Mule
Active Hunter
I wonder if the bottom piece would look good cast in clear resin. Just a thought
SingleSeat
Active Hunter
Darth Mule said:
I hear you D/Mule, I just don't have much experience with resin. Maybe Nutcore, Marrow Sun, or Bounty's Hunted would be the home of experience with that option -- and a wealth of experience there is. Ehh, better yet, just go ask a Canadian, they all seem to know more than we do
Nutcore
Active Hunter
SingleSeatForever said:I hear you D/Mule, I just don't have much experience with resin. Maybe Nutcore, Marrow Sun, or Bounty's Hunted would be the home of experience with that option -- and a wealth of experience there is. Ehh, better yet, just go ask a Canadian, they all seem to know more than we do
I think the pre-casted clear acrylic slab is a much better option, its looks pretty much the same as the screen version, clear resin as I found out and as I've been told by many members is basically impossible to cast without getting airbubbles, unless working in a professional enviorment with respective equipment. Besides the screen version isnt crystal clear anyway, it almost looks exactly like sss.
Spideyfett
Well-Known Hunter
SingleSeat... ...
Just want to say this is one of the best Threads on this Board...
We are very lucky to have you...
...Just want to say this is one of the best Threads on this Board...
We are very lucky to have you...
baileys bandit
New Hunter
god if only i had the paitence to do all of this, my hats off to you my friend
Darth Mule
Active Hunter
I'm not convinced that the two methods would look much different. I do have a bit of experience with resin-casting. And yes it's difficult to get them bubble free without a vacuum chamber... You can sometimes get one with the microwave. Heat up the mold before pouring. For some reason the heat decreases the chances of bubbling.
Nutcore said:
Darth Mule
Active Hunter
Oh.. And I'm sorry it took me 3 post to mention this, but... That rangefinder is the coolest thing I've seen in months.
MARROW SUN
Active Hunter
SingleSeatForever said:I hear you D/Mule, I just don't have much experience with resin. Maybe Nutcore, Marrow Sun, or Bounty's Hunted would be the home of experience with that option -- and a wealth of experience there is. Ehh, better yet, just go ask a Canadian, they all seem to know more than we do
I don't know if all Canadian's know better but there is definatly alot of talent per capita here on the TDH.
It is very easy to cast up the little clear insert, but the tricky part is taking out the bubbles, something I've never been too concerned over. The 2 things that could to be done are; 1)evacuate the air from the resin using a vacuum chamber 2) agitate the mold with vibration to free the bubbles to the surface.
If you want to try to make a mold feel free to PM me for more details on casting.
Dentedarmor
Active Hunter
:love You..you sir have amazing talent! I could never do anything As detailed and excellent as this! You must be so proud of your RF its the most advanced out there!.....I think you should name it
lol great work
lol great work
SingleSeat
Active Hunter
Spideyfett said:SingleSeat...
Just want to say this is one of the best Threads on this Board...
We are very lucky to have you...
Woa, thanks Spidey, and thanks to all for the enthusiasm and commentary. And thanks Marrow for jumping in with expert info! bailey's b, you blew your first post on me, I'm flattered. I hope this helps everyone make a great Fett! More updates are coming folks...
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