Moveable RF (servo thingy)

I eventually gave up so I'm not using anything. It was too much of a pain in the rear. I killed two zip zaps because I couldn't get them to work no matter how they were hooked up. Eventually one burnt out and the other's wires were too fragile and came completely undone.

In the end I almost rather just buy one of Hyperdyne's if I ever think of doing this for real. Its the one piece of my costume that's eluded me for years... had it almost working a few years back only to have that motor completely croak on me. Its never been the same since.
 
I am not sure it makes a difference using a true "zip zap" model or not /shrug

also as far as the transmitter goes I was planning on modifying as best as possible to make it as small as possible.
 
well actually went out and bought a zip zap as in the pics of the original... still no dice... grrrr...

I will have to look into what voltage is required for the servo.. I went with a hitech hs 85
 
In all of my RC modeling days, I have never seen 3vdc drive a servo. When my transmitter drops below 9vdc, my servos start to flutter, and will not respond to any input I give them. I don't think you have enough juice driving your servos guys/gals. I understand the zipzap board is rated at only 3v, therefore, that doesn't give the servo much juice left to run on, especially to lift a stalk, even if your servo is 120oz. I'll tell ya what I would do. I would run the zipzap board with the 2AA batteries, and then I would hook a 9v battery to my servo for its juice. Don't hook anything to your board but the signal wire for your servo, and the 2AA's.

Kivas,
Your hitec micro servo is rated at a minimum of 5v. At 6v it's only going to pull 26oz. You may have to lighten up your stalk and range finder considerably.

Good luck guys/gals! If I can help, feel free to ask.
 
ok thanks will try that. As far a lightening my stalk.. this 85 has enough torque for a 60scale plane so I think it should do it.. when it has enough juice that is.

I kind of thought that it wasn't getting enough, but I was not able to find last night what the minimum was for this servo.

I would think it should work with each piece having its independent power source.. and only the pulse wire connected to the board. I will give it a try :)
 
well.... tried the 9v to the servo.. and 2AA to board.. and still nothing :(

I did move a little at the very begining with the 2AA's how easily do these things burn out?
 
Sorry to say but if you hooked it up to the 9v, it probably fried it. I did this as well. I had 4 of these so it was no biggy, I was testing to see if the board would handle 9v and increase the torque of the servo I was testing. Within a second of pushing the button the board went *poof* and the genie escaped.
 
digital509 said:
Within a second of pushing the button the board went *poof* and the genie escaped.


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: oooooo...my side!

yeah I broke down and got Hyperdyne stuff as well. Great guy to deal w/ btw. My friend who is an EE major told me he could do it, but w/ his classes and life it was impossible to tie him down to commit to it. What really :angry me off was when I showed him Hyperdynes stuff he was all 'oh...I was planning on going smaller than this'

pfffffft whateva!
 
I never attached the 9v to the board.. only the 2aa's.

I have access to some old flight stuff so I will try out the proper controler receiver for the servo.. and see how small I can get it.. also I will be putting the board back into the zip zap to make sure it still works to eliminate that part.

Ah well.. all fun as this is a hobby and all :)
 
hmm... welll.. I can get it all together, but it seem like the servo doesn't get enough pulse?

I went back to a zip zap, - the zip zap is powered by 2 aa, and the servo by the 4.6 v pack it needs. I know the servo is good..and I know the board is good as I left the motor wired in... and then when I attach ther servo pulse wire..it just does a confused jiggle.

please help.. those who have been able to get this to work please post pics.
 
Gday guys,

ie got a zip zap type remote control car which i have pulled apart it is powered by 6V battery charger and the boards rated at 6v. Now i decided not to go with the servo way but a Dc motor instead that is small enough to fit into the helmet nicely. All i have to do is make a b=racket to glue it in with.

Now it wont do what the hyperdyne one does but it will go up and down as commanded so i will prob be able to do what J-ROCKS one does push button till in up postion and push button till in down postition and i thinks thats the best im gonna do with this one. ill prob upgrade to a hyperdyne when the time comes.

I havent installed it all yet but ill let you know how the motor handels the RF stalk!

Cheers,

Al
 
I was hoping someone could help me with this.
I tried all the ways listed here and the only way that even gets the servo shuddering was buckeye's way.
I am using a Hitec HS-85MG, and a 1st edition zip zap board.

Please help!

thanks


servo.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I never got it to work either, I used various zip zaps and the same servo as you.

Eventually I bought a hitec ground car kit and works fabulously ( came with all parts needed) The only this is the transmitter is obviously bigger than the zip zap, but will be gutting it and concealing it somewhere - hopefully right gaunt -
I am also reworking it to be non direct drive as saves likely 90% of the space.
 
I got a Cirrus high torque micro servo for about 37 bucks from a local hobby store. With two AA batteries, it hauls the solid resin BKBT rangefinder and aluminum stalk up and down with no complaint.

I have tried two different zip zaps so far. The problem I had is that the servo keeps chattering no matter what I do. If I keep the remote in its original pistol grip case with the rotary switch, it works alright. If I take the transmitter out of the case and try to replace the rotary switch with something I can fit in my gauntlet, it keeps chattering.

Since I am no electronics expert, I was about to break down and buy the hyperdyne kit, when I found a cheap RC car yesterday at KB toys. It was on sale for $3.00. The thing that caught my eye was that the remote has two momentary switches. One for forward and one for reverse.

I tore it up and hooked it up just like the zip zap and eureka!! It worked like a charm. With just two AA's it works awesome. I piggy-backed a couple of wires off of the switches on the transmitter board and conected them to the momentary switches I have in my left gauntlet flamethrower. I ran the power wires through my hose and put the 9 volt in my sleeve where my hoses connect. I also put the antenna in the hose.

So not taking into account the money I wasted on several trips to radio shack, I got this thing to work for 40 bucks.

cheap rc car.JPG


receiver.JPG


transmitter.JPG
 
Perfect! That's the exact same one I used for my last helmet. I wasn't able to find another for my new helmet, so I picked up a a cheapo car that had the basic left/right and forward/reverse controls. I only needed to use one of them, so I might the other to turn on the LEDs in the right gauntlet (which don't aren't on in the movie). I'll take some photos when I start installing that, which should be very soon.

Just to repeat krillindb's advice, if you go with one of the cheaper cars, be very careful and make sure you note where all the wires go. Probably best to unsolder every wire and replace it with a stronger one so you don't have one pop off all of a sudden and you don't know where it goes!
 
I just looked at this servo at home. It says that it needs 4.8 to 6.0 volts to work. With 2 AA or 2 AAA you only get 3 volts. I am sure that is why I can't get mine to work. As stated before by krillindb, the Zip Zap board can only take 4 volts. I can get my moter to twitch and that is about it.

So, this weekend I am off to a hobby store looking for a servo that can take with only 3 volts or get a box that will hold 4 AAA's and use them to power the servo and 2 AAA's to power the Zip Zap board.

Link to servo.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=LXN620&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
 
This thread is more than 16 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top