Just when you thought it was safe...another ESB paint up!

Just applied the 4th layer to the back!

DSCF0029_9.jpg
 
Hey G.. you appear to have spilled mustard all over the back of your lid?? send it to me and I'll clean it up for ya! it could take a few years tho... ;):lol:
 
Thanks SJ, that R/H panel needed re- doing in areas, it's a nightmare! next time no free hand, i'll be working to pencil lines! I'm looking forward to scratching through the layers around the rim on the back to achieve the finer details...and toning down the 'cream' slightly...:)
 
Hey TF..Question: Do you find that the paint, as the layers are applied, are getting thicker?(well DUH:lol:)..and the levels can be seen, is what mean? and it's not as flat as you would like?? ....I mean I can't tell either way from your pics, but I may try this method one day and since you're one of the first to document this method step by step just curious as to the over all look , "in person". (y)
 
Hey TF..Question: Do you find that the paint, as the layers are applied, are getting thicker?(well DUH:lol:)..and the levels can be seen, is what mean? and it's not as flat as you would like?? ....I mean I can't tell either way from your pics, but I may try this method one day and since you're one of the first to document this method step by step just curious as to the over all look , "in person". (y)

Do you mean, is there a noticeable raise in the surface for each layer? Cause I was actually wondering that too.

Great work btw, TF. I'll be using your progress as a reference for when I paint up my lid!
 
Do you mean, is there a noticeable raise in the surface for each layer? Cause I was actually wondering that too.

exactly... steel wool is a great technique to help flatten...but if you just break down the colors on the back alone, there will be a total of five layers, not including weathering...

don't get me wrong TF and I both agree that this is how the real one was painted, but replicating it is a whole other ball game....that's why I'm glad he's doing it and not me..:lol:..patience...and I have none.:lol:
What's the old saying: "It's like watching paint dry"....to me that's the key to this technique.

Great work TF...(y)
 
exactly... steel wool is a great technique to help flatten...but if you just break down the colors on the back alone, there will be a total of five layers, not including weathering...

don't get me wrong TF and I both agree that this is how the real one was painted, but replicating it is a whole other ball game....that's why I'm glad he's doing it and not me..:lol:..patience...and I have none.:lol:
What's the old saying: "It's like watching paint dry"....to me that's the key to this technique.

Great work TF...(y)

Oh ok, so there isn't supposed to be a noticeable raise in the thickness of the layers, from where paint has been scraped or chipped off?
 
Oh ok, so there isn't supposed to be a noticeable raise in the thickness of the layers, from where paint has been scraped or chipped off?

that's all a matter of opinion i think ;)

the screen helmet seems to be really subtle, thickness-wise. i usually do mine a bit heavier to emphasize the depth. i think it just looks cool up close, when someone is staring at it in person.
 
Oh ok, so there isn't supposed to be a noticeable raise in the thickness of the layers, from where paint has been scraped or chipped off?

That's the greatness of the ESB hero (IMO) that Joe Johnston painted.... he used this technique and yet acheived an almost flat finish.......that's the main reason I love the ESB over the ROTJ, not that they were painted different, I just feel the ESB hero is a peice of Art, and not a prop so much.(y)

On most of the ref photos there aren't any real "noticable" raised layers or "Chipped" areas...but the end result seems as though that's the look he was going for.
 
that's all a matter of opinion i think ;)

the screen helmet seems to be really subtle, thickness-wise. i usually do mine a bit heavier to emphasize the depth. i think it just looks cool up close, when someone is staring at it in person.


Ah, ok! So then I guess in my opinion, noticeable depth is cool looking, and will add a little something extra to the look of it, when viewed up close.

Another question: If the last layer on top is clear gloss to seal it, will it take away from the noticeable depth?

Thank you guys, Spidey and tk7602, for that, and especially TF for the amazing reference found in this thread.
 
Another question: If the last layer on top is clear gloss to seal it, will it take away from the noticeable depth?

As TK7602 said, not to take away from TF's thread, but I'm not sure why you would put a "Gloss" on the finish? I think a standard coat of dullcoat should work... but I see your point though......
My answer to that would be: "Terminal Fettler what are your plans for that???" ..cause I want to know too..:lol:
 
Hey TF..Question: Do you find that the paint, as the layers are applied, are getting thicker?(well DUH:lol:)..and the levels can be seen, is what mean? and it's not as flat as you would like?? ....I mean I can't tell either way from your pics, but I may try this method one day and since you're one of the first to document this method step by step just curious as to the over all look , "in person". (y)

The layers tend to 'ramp up' around the liquid mask, as long as a sensible thickness of paint is applied ( i tend to go at least three layers, relatively heavy layers that is) then using 0000 wire wool blends these edges, not only are the paint levels evened but also the surface texture is uniformed to an almost satin sheen...
 
The layers tend to 'ramp up' around the liquid mask, as long as a sensible thickness of paint is applied ( i tend to go at least three layers, relatively heavy layers that is) then using 0000 wire wool blends these edges, not only are the paint levels evened but also the surface texture is uniformed to an almost satin sheen...

That is music to a painters ear!!! (y)..beautiful.
 
That's the greatness of the ESB hero (IMO) that Joe Johnston painted.... he used this technique and yet acheived an almost flat finish.......that's the main reason I love the ESB over the ROTJ, not that they were painted different, I just feel the ESB hero is a peice of Art, and not a prop so much.(y)

On most of the ref photos there aren't any real "noticable" raised layers or "Chipped" areas...but the end result seems as though that's the look he was going for.
You are so right Alex! The ESB hero has so much detail its almost unreal! And one reason i like the AOSW helmet condition is that you would think the additional damage was intentional to the paint job and not from mishandling/stunt use: more of a challenge to replicate as well!
 
As TK7602 said, not to take away from TF's thread, but I'm not sure why you would put a "Gloss" on the finish? I think a standard coat of dullcoat should work... but I see your point though......
My answer to that would be: "Terminal Fettler what are your plans for that???" ..cause I want to know too..:lol:

There is absolutely no need to add another layer onto all the ones already there!:lol: Any unwanted gloss caused by 'wool buff' (for want of a better expression) will be lessened by weathering stages...:)
 
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