FPH #15 Progress Thread

All that work lies ahead of me ... my FPH is waiting to be painted ... and I can´t wait to start ... but first comes the move to our new home in mid january ... but then ... LOL

Cheers,

Manuel

PS: ShocKNurse, your helmet came out great so far! Hope mine will be similar when I get it startet. ;-)
 
Looks amazing! Yes, you have to take the masking fluid off usually within the same day as the painting I've found. If you wait too long it's a MAJOR pain to get it off cleanly.

Where do you find carbon paper?
 
Looks amazing! Yes, you have to take the masking fluid off usually within the same day as the painting I've found. If you wait too long it's a MAJOR pain to get it off cleanly.

Where do you find carbon paper?

Michael's or prolly Hobby Lobby. It is soooo easy to use! Thanks Madmartigan for that tip! :cheers
 
UPDATE 1/4

So afte a bit of a holiday hiatus, here are some more updates. I have been busy sizing and fitting stencils :wacko and going blind looking at reference pics. So, going forward, you may notice that there are some reference pictures that do not match this helmet. Well, I'm doing my best to replicate the screen used ESB helmet and not the AOSW exhibit helmet. Therefore, there will be some scratches missing. See Superjedi's FPH progress thread for some pictures of what I'm talking about.

I have been able to get the left ear cap detailed. I used Testors camouflage grey for the lighter portions and PS Rock Island Maroon for the red details.
Here are two shots, without and with flash, respectively:
p1010640fr3.jpg

p1010641fe7.jpg


Once I sized the next set of templates, I stenciled the bright silver areas using the same method mentioned earlier. The bright silver areas will act as landmarks when I go to apply the SP Dark Lark Grey, that is why I applied that first with my Size 0 brush and a nice hard tip size 1 for very small detail. I used Floquil Bright Silver for these areas. It was hard to find suitable lighting to capture the look of the silver, so these are the best I could get. :facepalm

p1040642dy9.jpg

p1040643vj8.jpg

p1040640ce4.jpg

p1040641fc7.jpg


I'm now sizing and matching up the SP Dark Lark Grey areas for the back panels. More to come! :cheers
 
Wow!! I actually contributed something useful!! :lol:

Glad it worked out for you! It is soooo much easier than the tracing paper method, imho. And the lines it leaves are really clear and really sharp. It's like the difference between a first gen casting and a 2nd or third gen recast. (y)

Rock on, my brother! Looking good!

-Chris


Michael's or prolly Hobby Lobby. It is soooo easy to use! Thanks Madmartigan for that tip! :cheers
 
UPDATE 01/10

Being back to work really stinks..less time to paint, hence the lack up updates in the past week. "Last time on FPH #15 WIP" :lol: we had gotten the Floquil bright silver applied to the left and right back panels. I have now progressed with the PS SP Dark Lark Grey on the back panels.

p1100640td6.jpg


And a closer shot of the back left panel:
p1100641pu2.jpg


And a closer look at the left section of the back right panel. This section was a tedious nightmare. I focused on the large sections of grey first so I could use them as landmarks for the other, smaller details. :wacko
p1100643mg9.jpg


A closer look at the bottom right side of the back right panel:
p1100644kt7.jpg


The progress on those back panels was over the course of the last week...doing a little at a time as I went blind looking at different reference pics. I have NOT applied the "mint green" color (AKA Delta Blue Wisp). I'll apply that later so that I only have to break it out and thin it down once.

I moved onto the keyslot area next. For the silver damage on the edge of the keyslots, I wanted to try to replicate the "feathered" look, so I used a piece of foam to apply the paint. I dabbed some bright silver on and then removed the excess by dabbing it on a piece of spare sintra I had laying around. The foam:
p1100645si3.jpg


And some pics of the keyslot area. The same two colors as above were used plus the addition of the PS PRR Maroon. This paint takes two coats, at least, so apply lightly and then reapply once dry to get the desired coating.

p1100651jo0.jpg


And a bit closer:
p1100100vr8.jpg


Next is onto the hat band area around the back... :cheers
 
great work so far...(y)

one tip, if you use enamel paint on the aluminum ears, there really is no need for primer. Just a light sand with extra fine steel wool before painting should do the trick.(y)...this way you can come back with an ex-acto edge blade and skim the edges of the ears to make the metal shine through..(y)
 
Thanks Alex...appreciate that! I used acrylics this time around, but in the future I'll think about using the enamels.

Shouldn't I still be able to use an X-Acto and scratch down to the metal? I mean, I will have two layers of paint to get through instead of one, but the principle is the same right?
 
Shouldn't I still be able to use an X-Acto and scratch down to the metal? I mean, I will have two layers of paint to get through instead of one, but the principle is the same right?
Oh ya definately the same technique can be used(y)... but you might see some primer come through.
 
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