FP Budget Paint up for Vegan Mando by Deadland

deadland

Well-Known Hunter
Alright here we have it a FP Budget lid one of FP's copies before he sold the molds to ASOK. Great lid light and everything is all molded on so there is nothing to attach except for the right ear cap. This will be your standard ESB paint up and it seems that the only challenge I may have on this is the range finder itself. The range finder on this is all molded together so it is one big piece of clear resin but I will get it figured out.

I spent some time last week trimming out the visor section and mounting the visor inside the lid to give it some strength while I paint it. I used the bolt method that way the visor can be removed at any time for any reason. Then over the weekend I hit it with a nice primer coat and then hit it last night with its first base color. From here I will mask out the damage that I need and will then spray it with the silver coat. Then rinse and repeat on down the line. Anyway on to the pics.

DSCN3738.JPGDSCN3739.JPGDSCN3740.JPGDSCN3741.JPG
 
Please be very descriptive. I have one from Asok and will be trying my hand at painting it in the near future.

How descriptive do you want it? I know the biggest difference in the process with the ASOK version will be if you want to add the base metal layer as you will need to mask out all the silver damage first before you apply it. Since this was one of Chris's pull's it was done in the white gel coat.
 
I guess if I was asking I would love to see what order you paint as far as location on the helmet, and I would like to see what size templates you use to make the damage scale properly.

And then it would be color selection (which might just be a referal to another thread)

I have always noticed people painting the panels and the dome and the area around the visor at different times. Since I have been a Jango guy up to this point I have never noticed why that is or if there is a reason for it.

But with all of that said, I will be happy to watch whatever you put forth........
 
I can defiantly break it down. For me it is a combination of resizing the templates by Rich D found here http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/boba-fett-esb-helmet-paint-stencils-23320/ along with RS color list with a change of the light gray used to SP Dark Lark Gray. I also use some templates that I have made from the ref pics by using different points on the helmet for size references. For the templates you will need to do a lot of measuring and adjusting in a photo editing suite like photo shop and dividing some of the templates into section to get it to fit right. then there are the times where you kind of just eye ball it.

I think the reason why most of us break it up into sections is to break up the insanity, wait I mean breakup the complexity. I usually like to do the back panel and then the mandibles and trim since they require so many layers. From there the rest of the lid go fairly quick.
 
Mullreel for the Asok...what ur gonna wanna do is hit it with steel wool, then seal it with a clear, probably a satin or matte, just touching the CC for a few seconds with my hot hands has left finger prints in the CC, so I sealed the CC with a clear then went to work....listen to Deadland as he knows whats up with painting with the stencils...measure the helmet resize the stencil to that area, then get it transfered....thing with that though is how do u go about it...print it the trace it onto the lid or trace it off the screen...whichever works for you...I trace off the screen transfer then liquid mask...trying to leave the lines under the new paint...which is why u want to trace around the area so u leave the line under the paint....
 
Thats what I was looking for. Thanks for the tips from both of you. I wouldn't have thougt about sealing the CC but that sounds like good advice.

I am not going to start for a few more weeks so I will be checking back to this and other threads when I get started.

Thanks
Chris
 
also I dont know how well the right ear cap is gonna take paint, it didnt like the krylon clear I put on it, might have to experiment with dust coats over it for the khaki...if you need help with colors let one of us know, r u gonna use airbrush or what?
 
I have never air brushed. I have always used rattlecans. But this seems like a good excuse to try something new. I might look into an inexpensive airbrush.
 
Well if u want a list of rattle can colors I can certainly lend my knowledge there...I have a current list of paints that are available that are very close
 
How well do rattlecans do for a Boba paint up? I was a little worried that the lack of control would be a real hinderance. I am comfortable using them but I am just ignorant of using them for this level of precision
 
also I dont know how well the right ear cap is gonna take paint, it didnt like the krylon clear I put on it, might have to experiment with dust coats over it for the khaki...if you need help with colors let one of us know, r u gonna use airbrush or what?

Yeah you are defiantly want to try and seal it with something after hitting it with the steel wool. I think on my FP premium lid I masked out the silver damage and then hit it with a coat of primer. as far as colors go I will list northing I use in the thread.
 
How well do rattlecans do for a Boba paint up? I was a little worried that the lack of control would be a real hinderance. I am comfortable using them but I am just ignorant of using them for this level of precision

I went straight with the air brush on my first lid as I did not feel comfortable with rattle cans. I got a cheap compressor at Harbor Freight and picked up a Paschee VL air brush at the local hobby store for about $70 well worth it.
 
Alright so last night I masked out what I like to call the base metal layer which is a layer of Lichtblua RLM 76.

Using my stencils that I have created using the templates created by Rich D I place them on the section and then with a piece of graphite paper behind it I trace out the damage.
DSCN3756.JPGDSCN3754.JPG


Then once I have all my damage marked out I then go back and mask it off using my color shaper and Grafix Liquid Frisket (Thanks F4R).
DSCN3753.JPG

Once done I usually let it set overnight and at some point the next day I spray the next color. In this case it was the silver layer for which I use Krylon Silver Metallic Spray paint as I like it better than the Floquil Bright Silver.
DSCN3758.JPGDSCN3767.JPG

Now from here I will go through and mask out all of the silver damage and they aly down the gray layer.
 
You may want to add a few drops of food colouring or water colours to the masking fluid it makes it easyer to work with ,
Its what I do any way
 
You may want to add a few drops of food colouring or water colours to the masking fluid it makes it easyer to work with ,
Its what I do any way


Yep I sure do I add about two drops of blue food coloring to it to make it more visible.
 
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