Boba Fett Helmet Blueprints/Templates

wizardofflight said:
I had planned on using .080" thick material for my build. Here is the link to the US Plastic's page:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=115&product%5Fid=10432

You can probably get away with .120", but you will have to account for the extra material thickness, you can make the parts a little longer and trim the excess once you have the pieces assembled.

Hope this helps.
well i was wondering since on the backs of the ear you can see the raised section has a certain depth and i was wondering what it was, maybe i need to post pics
 
Kripps & kibosh - I would start from the front with the seam in the back. Since we are not working with perfect circles the patterns had to be tweaked quite a bit to match the oblong oval of the dome. So depending on the shape of the dome and the flare things may not match up exactly. The seam in the back will end up being obliterated by the keyslot insert anyway. Sorry, I guess I should have been more specific in the templates.

protoFett - What I had envisioned is that the helmet would be built up in layers. The inner surface goes on first (this surface is exposed in the back of the helmet behind the ears). The outer surface then is laid over the inner surface. Now the area behind the ears for the otter layer is removed once you have it formed to the proper shape. I found it easier to heat shape the plastic first then remove the extra material. Once you cut this area out you can then bond it to the inner surface. For the visor opening, the plan was to cut it out once everything was bonded together

Sorry for all the confusion guys. It looks like I really need to get a tutorial done for these templates. I made too many assumptions and didn't make it clear what my intentions were.

Alan
 
Alan,

Believe it or not, I assumed correctly how you intended it to go on. I for some reason thought it would be easier to add the ear base and back as a first layer. Clearly not the way to go.

I think one piece will be best, and what you descibed is exactly what I will do. One layer all the way around first. The I'll cut out the cheekbones. Then, wrap a second slightly larger piece around that to form it. Remove second layer, cut out rear section and cheek bones. Attach over first piece. This will give me the raised brow, and raised ear bases.

I think I'll trim the visor slot on the interior piece slightly larger than the exterior one. That will give me a good lip to mount too.

We'll see how it goes!
 
i am sorry if i am confusing anybody, taking a look at bobamakers helmet detail 5
05_Trim_Angle.jpg

(if bm has a problem with posting let me know)

i was just curious as to thickness of the outer layer as far as the real helmet. it looks like maybe 1/16 but i could be wrong
for accuracy buffs it may not be too hard to modify the templates to add the "defects"
 
kibosh - Excellent idea on the visor I'll have to incorporate that in to the tutorial.

protoFett - No, it was my confusion. I missed that detail completely I will update the templates. Thank you. This kind of feedback is great, keeps me honest. The exact thickness is difficult to determine from photos 1/16" (.0625) should work fine, I prefer .080" because it will give me more material for battle damage and sanding and of course mistakes.

Alan
 
PF, are you asking how thick the red base is that the ear pieces get mounted onto? If so, I'm just making mine 3 mm because that's the thickness sintra I have.
 
Any progress on the tutorial Alan? I'm looking to tackle this, but right now I have a ton of questions as this would be my first helmet buildup. Thanks for the blueprints.

Chad

Sorry for all the confusion guys. It looks like I really need to get a tutorial done for these templates. I made too many assumptions and didn't make it clear what my intentions were.

Alan
 
OMG....Alan this is amazing. I'm blown away by what you did here. How would you fiberglass that? i never used fiberglass before...so you smear that on top of it? would bondo work as well?
 
Outstanding work Alan! Your selfless contributions have helped so many of us and continue to do so! Thanks for sharing your research and hard work!
 
MARROW SUN said:
Outstanding work Alan! Your selfless contributions have helped so many of us and continue to do so! Thanks for sharing your research and hard work!

Amen to that and then some.

Luckily, the templates took to the super modified dome very nicely. The shape isn't perfect, but I think its a very good representation of Boba's dome.
Warning to anyone who tries cutting their dome into quarters........getting the bondo to follow the natural curvatures IS A NIGHTMARE!!
Now that that's said and done the rest is cake because Alan has done all the hard work for us! :)
None of the lines on the lower half of the helmet are final trim lines. I cut my plastic larger in case of error. Still have some sanding to do where the dome meets the lower half and maybe a little heat tweaking.

Thanks again Alan.
Josh

1238lh.jpg


4561ka.jpg
 
I just started working on the paper version of this for a test fit (thanks for the inspiration WOF!) Having never had my hands on a real bucket, I was surprised how large it is, yet it's still a little snug! I need to scale this up a few percent as well.

Question: Is the lower cheekbone a "flat" piece? I know I'll get a better idea how these pieces fit when I move to sintra, but I'm taking small steps. Thanks!

Chad
 
The lower cheekbone is a flat sheet. I was also amazed at the size and my head still didn't fit in the standard size version.

Good luck post pics.

Alan
 
Alan,
Why the two templates for the lower cheekbone? I'm trying to find sintra and batting helmet now to get started on this.

Anyone else have pics of their progress on this?

Chad
 
propcicle said:
Alan,
Why the two templates for the lower cheekbone? I'm trying to find sintra and batting helmet now to get started on this.

Anyone else have pics of their progress on this?

Chad

I was also wondering about that. I'm starting to fill in the upper cheeks today as well as the key slots in the back. I've tried to cut one piece for the upper cheeks but it seems I can't get the compound curve even close to fitting so I'm going with 4 pieces to fill each upper cheek.
This is what I have so far. Attempt at the funky brow and all.
untitled5ki.jpg
 
Kripps - Looks good so far. I see you couldn't wait to shoot some paint on it! What type of material are you using? I just ran by Lowes this morning and picked up a couple "House for Sale" signs that I think are sintra. Still haven't found a batting helmet yet, they may not be in season yet.

Chad
 
propcicle said:
Kripps - Looks good so far. I see you couldn't wait to shoot some paint on it! What type of material are you using? I just ran by Lowes this morning and picked up a couple "House for Sale" signs that I think are sintra. Still haven't found a batting helmet yet, they may not be in season yet.

Chad

It wasn't the wanting to paint it.........it was more like I couldn't really visualize the proportions without some of it being green..........:lol: . The whole thing will be primed sanded, reprimed probably half a dozen more times before it's ready for paint. I'm using 3mm and 2mm sintra. The batting helmet is an easy 12$ investment at any sporting goods store.
 
Kripps - What kind of glue are you using to bond the sintra? I think there is special glue that fuses the plastic together but I haven't found that yet.

Also did you use WOF's inner template or the layer the outer. I wasn't sure why there was a specific layer for the inner layer, when only the back is seen. It looks like this inner layer would get in the way of the cheek pieces that curve into the helmet, maybe not. I need to get started on this - I'll probably answer my own questions.:lol:
 
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