ASOK CC ESB build
- Thread starter dinkydarth
- Start date
dinkydarth
New Hunter
the "purple" is 73 plus 104 1:1 (as per terminal fettler's sticky) the Red is straight 73.
dinkydarth
New Hunter
yep that's right. all Humbrol enaemls. I was a little hesitant with using the wine 73 at first, as I thought it was too dark, but it came out ok.
Jayvee
Active Hunter
Yea, the wine 73 is a really good colour for esb. Floquil caboose is the other choice, but the wine 73 is nice. The thing that really got me, was how much the wine 73 and the caboose change when put together with the greens of the helmet in particular. You would swear they are too dark to begin with, but once laid down next to everything else, they look just right. As the wine 73 is a fraction redder than the caboose, this colour really looks great when layered over the 73 + 104 purple mix. As the top colour can change considerbly depending on what colours are underneath it, those two layers just seem to really work well together, as DinkyDarth has displayed here beautifully..
Really enjoying this paint up bud, think you are doing a sensational job!
Really enjoying this paint up bud, think you are doing a sensational job!
dinkydarth
New Hunter
Here we go, more progress....
dinkydarth
New Hunter
yeah, not really sure yet how to approach the kill stripes. I was thinking of making up a clear template like Terminal Fettler... I understand the stripes are about 1 inch tall, right? any suggestions which is the best way?
RafalFett
Well-Known Hunter
You might try something like this ==> Old Fashioned 'Killstripe' Thread
One killstripe is around 24 mm (15/16 inch) tall, 8mm (5/16 inch) wide, the space between two killstripes is around 5mm (3/16 inch) and the distance from the red brow to the bottom of the stripes is 6mm (1/4 inch)
One killstripe is around 24 mm (15/16 inch) tall, 8mm (5/16 inch) wide, the space between two killstripes is around 5mm (3/16 inch) and the distance from the red brow to the bottom of the stripes is 6mm (1/4 inch)
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Jayvee
Active Hunter
Raf's stencils will be a great place to start, but as every helmet may be different in size, these may have to be adjusted slightly. Look really closely at the reference pics for where they start, end, and interact with the damage already laid down. In addittion, look at the width of not only the stripe itself, but the width of the gap between the stripes also. A template like Garret made up is a great idea, and you can lightly draw them on using this stencil with a white watercolour pencil (which wipes off when dabbed with a damp cloth. I use a faber castell brand). Once you have lightly stencilled everything on and looks good, mask it all out with blue painters tape - I use Scotch brand with minimum adhesion, designed for delicate surfaces.
Once you mask everything out with the tape, use your stencils and carbon paper to stencil in the fine details on each killstripe. when happy, use your masking fluid to fill these small areas in. Once all masking is completed and you are ready to paint, I always take Eric's (Superjedi's) tip, and lightly spray down a layer of Testors Dullcote to limit any paint bleeding. Once dry, you can apply your yellow, and orange misting. Once fully dried, peel that sucker off very carefully and bazinga! ESB Killstripes laid down!
Once you mask everything out with the tape, use your stencils and carbon paper to stencil in the fine details on each killstripe. when happy, use your masking fluid to fill these small areas in. Once all masking is completed and you are ready to paint, I always take Eric's (Superjedi's) tip, and lightly spray down a layer of Testors Dullcote to limit any paint bleeding. Once dry, you can apply your yellow, and orange misting. Once fully dried, peel that sucker off very carefully and bazinga! ESB Killstripes laid down!
dinkydarth
New Hunter
wow, thanks for the tips.... now I feel more ready to tackle them! Another question, for later, how do you apply the paint splatter weathering? and what colour is the paint. Surely you don't dap each and every one with a brush right?
Jayvee
Active Hunter
Haha, no, no, nothing that insane . Okay, the splatters are something you will really want to practice and get confident at before you add them to your lid. Firstly, the main colour I used, was Humbrol Leather (62). I also put in some light splatters using Humrol Rust (113), Humbrol Desert Yellow (93) and Humbrol light grey (147).
Now the trick to this, is have the paint a little thicker than normal, so thin it down a tad less. I am right handed, so with the airbrush in my right hand, I take the air hose in my left hand, and crimp the air hose - at the same time, i pulse the trigger on the airbrush. Here, you can pulse the air hose crimping too. This tends to make the paint splatter. I find more pressure on your regulator creates finer splatter, less pressure bigger splatter. And you can stand further back too for the finer stuff. It sounds complicated, but after some good practice, you should get a feel for what works best for your technique..
. Okay, the splatters are something you will really want to practice and get confident at before you add them to your lid. Firstly, the main colour I used, was Humbrol Leather (62). I also put in some light splatters using Humrol Rust (113), Humbrol Desert Yellow (93) and Humbrol light grey (147).Now the trick to this, is have the paint a little thicker than normal, so thin it down a tad less. I am right handed, so with the airbrush in my right hand, I take the air hose in my left hand, and crimp the air hose - at the same time, i pulse the trigger on the airbrush. Here, you can pulse the air hose crimping too. This tends to make the paint splatter. I find more pressure on your regulator creates finer splatter, less pressure bigger splatter. And you can stand further back too for the finer stuff. It sounds complicated, but after some good practice, you should get a feel for what works best for your technique..
dinkydarth
New Hunter
Killstripes, left ear white decal and right ear silver done. I also added the yellow overspray as per Jayvee's thread.
dinkydarth
New Hunter
Wow, thats going to be hard to master. did you use the same technique for the rf stalk?Haha, no, no, nothing that insane
Now the trick to this, is have the paint a little thicker than normal, so thin it down a tad less. I am right handed, so with the airbrush in my right hand, I take the air hose in my left hand, and crimp the air hose - at the same time, i pulse the trigger on the airbrush. Here, you can pulse the air hose crimping too. This tends to make the paint splatter. I find more pressure on your regulator creates finer splatter, less pressure bigger splatter. And you can stand further back too for the finer stuff. It sounds complicated, but after some good practice, you should get a feel for what works best for your technique..
Jayvee
Active Hunter
Splendid work brother - consider those killstripes nailed!
With the question on the splatters, the splatterring technique sounds tougher than it is - pretty much just crimping and trigger pulsing. Try it on some scrap, and with your great skills, it wont take long at all to master. Now the RF stalk was actually done with a brush and some thinned down paints creating a wash. I tried to follow the ref pics, and dabbed and wiped the wash, and dry brushed some areas. It all worked out better than I expected actually..
With the question on the splatters, the splatterring technique sounds tougher than it is - pretty much just crimping and trigger pulsing. Try it on some scrap, and with your great skills, it wont take long at all to master. Now the RF stalk was actually done with a brush and some thinned down paints creating a wash. I tried to follow the ref pics, and dabbed and wiped the wash, and dry brushed some areas. It all worked out better than I expected actually..
thirdEthree
Hunter
Good job sir, coming along nicely.
dinkydarth
New Hunter
Almost there....
