Another scratch made bucket

Thanks again Rob, as always your comments are well received. (y)

For the right ear pieces, I used at least two different thicknesses of plastic card from 3mm to 1mm. I found that Alains templates were beyond compare, and only had to alter some of the pieces to allow for the thickness of my materials.

Basically, keep the main top pieces as per the templates, then alter the bits that attach to the sides by making them slightly larger to allow them to be trimmed down to fit.

I kept lots of scrap plastic card on hand, and re-made the bits as needed. I did a lot of test fitting before glue was added, then trimmed/filed the final piece for that flush fit. Once I'm finished all of the fine tuning and it's time to shoot the primer, you'd be hard pressed to find the seams. 8)

Good luck on your ears. :cheers
 
Nice Bucket Jango72! I wish I could get as hands on with the fabrication... But I'm a painter not a builder. =) Anyways, I would cut the visor back to where you marked it. Looking at some pictures it seems the visor is extended just a bit more. The only other thing I would do before you lay any primer on to paint, it make sure the dome is smooth as can be! Jango is unforgiving, and looking at your pictures it looks like the dome isn't totally smooth. Get some bondo glszing and spot putty to fill any little spots.

But otherwise it looks great!

Phil
 
Thanks for the feedback, and rest assured that my fine tuning I spoke of in my earlier posts pertains to making the dome as smooth as possible. Seeing as I'm meticulously picky, it'll be perfectly smooth before I even think of going any where near my helmet with primer.I feel that the visor should be extended, but I'd like to hear from more members before I decide by how much I'm extending it.
Nice Bucket Jango72! I wish I could get as hands on with the fabrication... But I'm a painter not a builder. =) Anyways, I would cut the visor back to where you marked it. Looking at some pictures it seems the visor is extended just a bit more. The only other thing I would do before you lay any primer on to paint, it make sure the dome is smooth as can be! Jango is unforgiving, and looking at your pictures it looks like the dome isn't totally smooth. Get some bondo glszing and spot putty to fill any little spots.

But otherwise it looks great!

Phil
 
The visor that's in the helmet now is only temporary. I want to get a proper one soon, as you can easily see my face when the lighting is good. It's made from 0.080" thick tinted plastic sheet that I picked up at a local hobby shop for another project.
 
That's looking sweet!! Like you said prepwork will be everything, especially on a Jango. Good luck and keep us posted.:cheers
 
Wow! This is a great looking helmet, the ears are fantastic, very nice work!! Do you have any in progress pic of those being built?

Can't wait to see it painted up.

Alan

P.S. I am working on a set of templates for Jango's helmet, but they are a long way from being done. Just haven't had any time to devote to my Fett stuff.
 
I really wish that I had some "in progress pics" of the ears being made... but I don't. :facepalm

I kinda tend to get rolling on something, and forget to stop and snap a few pics. :eek:

The ears themselves took me a few sessions of a couple hours each to make. It would've taken far less time, but I had to tweek all of the smaller side pieces to compensate for the different thickness of my plastic. ( the templates were designed with cereal box card in mind )

The right ear still comes apart, so I can remove the stalk and range finder. I was waiting until after the painting was complete to glue it. I can snap a pic or two of those pieces if that'd help at all. (y)

As for the Jango version... it's pretty much the same as the Boba style but the top of T-visor extends further towards the ears and the minor angle to the back raised part right behind the ears. ( the part behind the ears won't be noticed by many, except the truly die-hards ) 8)
 
Jango...I'm having to use thinner card stock to make mine, also...the 1mm Sintra just doesn't make the 90 degree bends too easily, without snapping...the card stock is fibrous, therefore a little more bendable...I've got my left ear tutorial up over on the MMCC site now, and am presently going through the motions with the right ear and rangefinder...(y)
Rob
 
For my ears, I used three thicknesses of plastic card...

1. 3mm for the ear base
2. 0.5mm for the main structures
3. 0.080mm for the curved piece

I didn't leave the right angle bits attached, only the sloped parts. All of the right angle, or side parts were made to fit using off cuts and extra plastic card. I just placed the bit, marked it and then cut it a tad bigger than needed to allow for filing down, to give it that nice tight fit. 8)

IMG00239.jpg

IMG00240.jpg
 
For styrene, I use Humbrol plastic cement. It has this really cool needle applicator. (y)

Gluebottles.jpg


For other parts of the helmet, I used Loctite brand cyano-acrylite super glue. ( the gel style )

superglue2.jpg
 
Thanks, Jango...I've been using superglue, but not the gel...I think I'll try it out tomorrow! I wonder if Testors model cement will substitute for the Humbrol?
Rob
 
Testors cement will work fine, but the Humbrol is a liquid where as the Testors is much thicker.

I find the liquid much easier to work with as it can be applied more precisely, especially on those tiny bits/greeblies. ;)
 
Model Masters has a needle applicating liquid cement that I've been using on models for years. The past couple months I have use the humbrol glue like that it works just as good but I find the model masters glue more comfortable in my hand.

BTW guys I saw this first hand last night and it's looking better in person, it's pretty close to terminal Fettlers helmet in size.
 
Except for the size of the ears. Don't forget to mention that part bud. ;)

You home already? Geez, that was fast. :lol:

Hope your other halfs trip goes/went well. ( I'm assuming that you guys didn't get lost on your way back to your hotel last night. ;) )

Good to meet you and your wife, it's just too bad that we had such a short time to visit.
 
This thread is more than 16 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top