Slash Goes ESB Fett

Slash

Hunter
Thought it was finally time to start a build thread.

I will start by just posting a list of my parts but will add some photos soon since they are much more existing to look at than a boring list. I'm sure there is still extra bloody stuff I haven't thought of yet.

As some background I decided to build a Fett suit as my kids are obsessed with Star Wars and I told them I would dress up with them for Halloween (didn't tell them which year - lol). I'm a big Guns N' Roses fan (in case the username didn't give it away) and I have a big GN'R collection. I decided instead of letting all that crap sit in the cupboard it's better to enjoy stuff with the family, so I decided to sell some bits off that I was happy to let go and use the funds to build a Fett. So far everything I have purchased has been funded with stuff I have sold from my collection, fortunately I have only had to sell a tiny bit so far. Plus it was the only way to avoid scrutiny from the wife as to spending all these $$'s.

Special thanks so far for all the help from Jbdubz and Dakota at MachineCraft replicas too!

Anyhow, below is my parts list.

Softparts
- Flightsuit - Arkady
- Neckseal - Arkady (Attached to flightsuit)
- Pouches - Arkady
- Flak Vest - Arkady
- Cape - Woodman
- Wookie Braids - Woodman (Real horse hair)
- Girthbelt - Woodman
- Gloves - Major (VillainWorks)
- Ammo Belt - Delta13Mike
Boots
- Boots - ManOWar
- Weathering/Painting - Jbdubz
- Toe Spikes - MachineCraft Replicas
Helmet
- FPH2 - DarthVorhees (Cargo Hold purchase)
- Paint Commission - Major (VillainWorks)
- Range Finder LED's - JC27
- Range Finder Servo - JC27
- Hollow RF Stalk - Mojo_skywalker
- Helmet Fans - Crumdum
- Borden - Machinecraft Replicas
- Range Finder Top - Terminal Fettler
Armour
- Armour - RS Prop Masters
- Paint Commission - Jbdubz
- Knee Darts - MachineCraft Replicas
- Collar/Cod Studs - MachineCraft Replicas
- Chest Display Panel - Fettronics
Jetpack
- Jetpack ManoWar
- Paint Commision - Affo$
- Real Dental File - Bojagun
- Jetpack Beacon Light JC27
- Stabiliser - MachineCraft Replicas
- Beacon - MachineCraft Replicas
- Collar - Dark Side
- Thruster Front Greeblies - Dark Side
- Thruster Side Greeblies - MachineCraft Replicas
- Thruster Disc Afterburners - MachineCraft Replicas
- Hooks & Clips - Full Metal Fett
- US Divers belt & Tri-glyde - Full Metal Fett
- Harness - Bigdane
- Webbing - ebay
Gauntlets
- Gauntlets - Fett Pride
- Flamertthrower - RKD
- Paint Commission - Jbdubz
- Guantlet Rocket - MachineCraft Replicas
- Gauntlet Darts - MachineCraft Replicas
- Dental Files - BojaGun (Original)
- Minilight - Ebay (Original Found Part)
Shin Tools
- Patterson Print Squeegee - Online store (Original Found Part)
- Paterson Chemical Stirrer - Online Store (Original Found Part)
- Jetpack Adjustment Tool - Shapeways
- Anti Security Tool - MojoFett & Shapeways With MojoFett Parts
Weapons
- Sidearm - Online auction (Original found part Pulce 40)
- Holster - Stormrider
- EE3 Blaster - Sidwinder EE3 (with lights and sounds)
- Blaster Core V5.0 - Plector Labs
- Miscellaneous electronics - Various (speakers, LED's etc)
- Leather sling - Jbdubz
- Helmet padding - ebay
 
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Here's some pics of the boots. Jbdubz did an awesome job, they just need sealing now.

11 so new!.jpg12 middle stripe prepped to accept black.jpg13 two coats later.jpg14 base gray added to show diff. .jpg15 base done with crease darkening.jpg16 purple and browns added plus scuffing.jpg17 much better.jpg18 screen accurate.jpg19 inside.jpg20 backs.jpg21 outside .jpg22 OOH shiny!.jpg23 shiny no more.jpg24 FILTHY.jpg25 ready for mounting.jpg
 
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Here's the cape which I have done a bit of weathering on. One thing I have always found curious, people tend to weather the bottom of the cape (along the flat edge where the holes/rips are - note the holes in my cape came like this already).

BUT if the cape was hung from one corner (the top right in this picture) then surely the weathering would be along the bottom left corner opposite from where it's hung. It would then be weathered from an upside down triangle from there (I have tried to start doing it on mine), rather than symmetrically along the flat bottom edge (as most people seem to do it). Does that makes sense??

BTW I wouldn't mind weathering the cape a little more too. Although the light seems to make it look like there is less "weather" on it than there really is. I've got another round of weathering to do on the flightsuit then I will post that up for critique too.

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- - - Updated - - -

Here is a pic of the RS Props armour after Jbdubz has trimmed it and put down the first coat of primer

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Ok time for an update since things have been ticking along in the background. I basically have everything now except for the Bucket (which Major is working on as we speak) and my EE3 which Sidewinder is awaiting another Plector Labs board to go in it :(

So I thought I would show some pics of the stuff as well as the fun I have had putting it all together as I continually hound Jbdubz with questions.

So first up is to showcase the beautiful commission paint work Jbdubz did on the armour. The pics don't quite do all the detail on it justice:

(note the armour has only been placed on the vest for these pics).

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Man, after reading your list of suppliers and commissions, you went with a no compromise build. While there are vendors out there AS GOOD as the ones you mention, there are none better. Top notch!
 
Here are the gauntlets also painted by Jbdubz. I still need to fit the minilight and Im waiting for my helmet as it also has the remote servo switches for the RF with it which will need to go on. Also need to put the velcro on still hence the protective paper on the edges. I love Dakota's rocket and RKD's flamethrower!!!!!
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Here is the original minilight I found. Never seen one in this colour before, but it's kind of a cool camo green. Interestingly it doesn't have the words "ever ready" written on the button. But it is definitely the right one, it is the correct dimensions and takes AAA batteries. I will be painting the button on it obviously.

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Haha yeah I have way to much GN'R ***** - my wife will tell you that!!

Even though my helmet is not going to be done in time for Halloween, Jbdubz was kind enough to do an intercontinental loan of his spare helmet so I will still be able to give the costume a run on the 31st. That was a huge favour that he did for me and Im very grateful and so will my kids when we head out in costume.

It will also give me a chance to see what works and what fails when I finally get to wear it out for an hour or two. Then I can continue to tweak things and get feedback on everything so that when Major is finished with my helmet I will hopefully ready for my 501st Submission (Level 3).
 
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Took the costume for it's first test run tonight. The only casualty was one of the toe spikes was lost. It seems to have come totally unscrewed. One on the other foot was the same, I could complete spin it around.

Other than that it went ok. Things I need to tidy up and work on but was fine for the first outing.

The wife let the team down a bit, only put on a witches hat, fake mole and a broomstick. I have suggested Slave Girl Leia would be more appropriate next year.

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Neckseal was sticking outside the helmet hear and the girth belt strapping was off a bit.
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One spike totally unscrewed?
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One on the other foot just spins around.
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Thought I would show the process of how I attached my armour to my vest. I used nylon nuts, bolts and washers and grommets.

Credit to jbdubz for the method I used as he suggested the process I am about to describe.

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First I traced around the armour onto some cardboard and then cut it out. There was a bit of trial and error here with some of the pieces so that they were long/wide enough to still fit after allowing for the concave (or convex depending on which way you are looking at it) shape of the armour. I then soaked the cardboard armour pieces in water so I could mold them into position in the back of my actual armour pieces.

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A couple of times I had to re-wet the cardboard and reshape it as it tended to go back to it's original shape rather than remain in the curve of the armour. Eventually when it was close enough and dry I took out the cardboard armour.

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I then drew holes on the back of the cardboard armour for rough guides of where the nylon bolts would go. I used Raf's template for a guide of where to put the holes.

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I then punched out holes in the cardboard where I had drawn the circles.

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Once the armour was in position where I was happy with it, I used a marker to mark holes on the vest through the holes in the cardboard.

One thing I might have done differently in hindsight is not have the vest flat. I should have had it on my mannequin or myself and then tried to position the armour, perhaps holding it temporarily in place with sticky tape. The reason being is the gaps between the armour change slightly when the vest sits on your curved body as opposed to a flat surface. Although that said there is still adjustment room further in the attachment process so that's not really critical.

I then took a deep breath and proceeded to put grommets in the positions were I had marked my vest.

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Where I had marked the spots for the grommets I made sure that I then attached the grommets marginally inside those marks (back towards the centre of each piece of armour), this would allow me a little more room for adjustment with the placings later. It was only a minor move, but I didn't want the grommet to be right at the very edge of the armour as it would allow no movement of the armour pieces later.

I then put the cardboard pieces back into the real armour and marked spots on the back of the armour using the punched holes in the armour for guides.

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I then temporarily attached the nylon bolts to the back of the armour on those spots using Blue-tac.

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After I had done this with all the pieces, I attached the armour to the vest and used nylon washers and bolts to hold it on. I then tried the vest on to see how the armour placement worked. This was a delicate process as the blue-tac kept coming off in a couple of spots. I could then adjust the armour placement where necessary by adjusting the placement of the blue-tac.

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Once I had the armour placed pretty much where I was happy with it, I then traced around the blue-tac with a black marker so I knew where to glue the nylon bolts to the back of the armour.

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And that was pretty much it, once it was finished I dremmel'd off the ends of the bolts so that they sat flush with the screws and didn't dig into my chest.

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The only thing I might do differently from the method above was instead of using blue-tac, just go straight ahead and super glue the bolts onto the marks on the back of the armour. I did this on a couple of trouble spots that I couldn't get the blue-tac putty to stay on. I glued the bolt on, waited about half an hour then tried the vest on. If the armour wasn't quite in the right spot I was still able to snap the bolts off as the super glue still hadn't fully hardened. So theoretically I could have done that with the whole thing rather than use the blue-tac which was at times quite annoying to work with as it wouldn't stay in place in some spots whenever I would try to bolt on the armour and try the vest on. However, if you do this you would need to work quickly, I wouldn't leave the bolts there for a couple of hours as they will not snap off after that. I tried that with one I wanted to move the next day and there was no chance, I had to dremmel it off.
 
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Hey Slash great job on your suit :) (y)

What size nylon bolts did you use for your armor placement ?

I know longer have the original packaging but measuring one then its:

Thread Width: 6mm (0.25 Inches)

Thread Length: 25mm (1 inch)

Obviously I ended up dremelling off the end of the thread once it was done. Im guessing that I probably took off about 10mm. Obviously the washers were needed to make sure the head of the bolt didn't just fall through the grommets since it was about the same size as the grommet holes. The hexagonal head of the bolt is 10mm wide.
 
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