General SE Fett

So I am going through this right now as we speak and hopefully I can give you some insight. For starters we have two different versions, Promo and Film, which CRLS aren't 100% in stone for either. The biggest differences I have found so far are :

1. ESB helmet paint scheme with more battle damage
2. Half scope on the EE-3 (promo)
3. ESB damage armor with ROTJ paint scheme
4. Left knee is Pre production #2 paint scheme
5. ESB braids
6. Belt has 10 pouches (promo) and 12 in movie, though this has been up for discussion. (different color scheme on the pouchs)
7. Jetpack ROTJ with more battle damage
8. Spats are Khaki for Promo and light grey for film (same color as flightsuit)
9. Right gauntlet has 1 vinyl braided line as opposed to 3 from ROTJ
10. Left gauntlet has a braided line running form the missile to the back of Jetpack.

These are some of the major standouts that I can think of for a SE fett.
I am personally doing a Promo version and will have a post here soon on my build as I am getting pretty close to having everything Dialed in.

-Chris
 
So I am going through this right now as we speak and hopefully I can give you some insight. For starters we have two different versions, Promo and Film, which CRLS aren't 100% in stone for either. The biggest differences I have found so far are :

1. ESB helmet paint scheme with more battle damage
2. Half scope on the EE-3 (promo)
3. ESB damage armor with ROTJ paint scheme
4. Left knee is Pre production #2 paint scheme
5. ESB braids
6. Belt has 10 pouches (promo) and 12 in movie, though this has been up for discussion. (different color scheme on the pouchs)
7. Jetpack ROTJ with more battle damage
8. Spats are Khaki for Promo and light grey for film (same color as flightsuit)
9. Right gauntlet has 1 vinyl braided line as opposed to 3 from ROTJ
10. Left gauntlet has a braided line running form the missile to the back of Jetpack.

These are some of the major standouts that I can think of for a SE fett.
I am personally doing a Promo version and will have a post here soon on my build as I am getting pretty close to having everything Dialed in.

-Chris

Awesome detail, thanks so much


Sent from my iPhone
 
The best most comprehensive list is on the Bounty Hunters Guild forum under the CRL thread. It has a very good conversation that comes to a consensus rather well.
 
You may have to sign up and get approval to view it. You don't have to be an approved 501st member but I think the forum admin does have to let you in.
 
I don't normally cut and paste this much but here you go...........................

Helmet (ESB Paint Scheme)
Must have a dark colored, full one piece "T" visor.
Must have a rangefinder stalk on the right side of the helmet.
The rangefinger stalk must be a silver metal / metallic in appearance.
The rangefinder topper must be black with a translucent lower piece, black framed window and the appearance of 2 red "lights" on the top.
Must have 14 "Kill Stripes" on left side of helmet, painted yellow and fading to yellow-orange as they progress to the back of the helmet.
The mandibles, head band and key slot area must be a dark red/burgundy color.
The upper cheeks must be a weathered black color.
The right ear must be an earthen/tan color with a white and black upside-down "U" shape on the top portion with 9 small, weathered black stripes just above the split in the earpiece.
The left ear must be olive-green in color with an upside down white "U" shape on the top portion with red and silver weathering showing through.
The dome and lower cheeks must be a light olive green in color.
The right cheek has a "borden connector" detail piece (or replica) installed.
The dome features a prominent dent in the left-front portion.
The helmet back must be primarily dark blue-green in color.
The helmet must be weathered and should match the visual references as closely as possible, both in colors and weathering patterns.
The keyhole slots in the rear of helmet must have a Casio MQ-1 circuit board (or cast replica) mounted in the openings. This detail may be cast into the helmet or mounted behind cut out openings in the slots.

Level 2 - T-Visor must be smoke gray. Must have two red LEDs sticking out of the top of the rangefinder with an alternating flashing sequence when the rangefinder is in the down position and a white light in the frosted clear bottom.

Level 3


Neck Seal
For 501st approval:
· A quilted neck seal made from the same fabric as the vest covers the
neck.
· Horizontal ribs run along the seal.
· The seal closes in the front via hooks or velcro.

Level 2: Must be made from accurate "tackle twill" material.
For level three certification (if applicable):

Armor Vest
For 501st approval:
· Must be light gray in color and weathered.
· Must close down the back.
· Must have short shoulder tabs to mount the shoulder armor. These
tabs must be quilted, running from the end of the tab up to the
shoulder.
· Must have slits cut into the back of the vest in order for the jetpack
harness straps to feed through.
· Must allow for the attachment of chest, back, belly, shoulder and collar
armor.
· Must be short enough to stop before hitting the girth belt. It should be
no longer than necessary to mount the armor. (Approximately 1/2" past the armor)

Level 2: Must be made from accurate "tackle twill" fabric.
Level 3:

Chest armor
For 501st approval:
· Consists of collar armor, left and right breast plates, a center diamond
and an abdominal plate.
· Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
Must be medium/dark green with weathering that appears to expose a
silver base color with yellow edges around the damage. Weathered where indicated to reasonably match visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.

  • The physical dents on the armor must match the ESB armor in shape and size. The paint scheme would match the ROTJ references. (This is present on the Promo Shot version)
· Left breast plate must have two cut out horizontal bars, the lower one
to be wider and positioned as shown in visual references.
· Left breast plate slots must be backed by a translucent screen.
· The right breast plate has a decal in the upper right. The decal must be
present and match visual reference.
· Center diamond plate between breast plates must have an indented silver
vertical rectangle as shown in visual references.
· Must attach securely to the front of the vest
· The collar armor connects to the back plate via 4 square silver
metal/metallic studs.
· The studs may be functional connectors or decorative. If the studs are
not the functional connection between collar and back plate, no other
attachment method may be visible.

Level 2 : Chest slots must have an illuminated red display, flashing in a pattern
consistent with film reference.

Level 3:


Back Armor
For 501st approval:
· Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
· Must be medium/dark green with weathering that appears to expose a
silver base color with yellow edges around the damage. Weathered where indicated to reasonably match visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
· Must have two rectangular slots over the shoulder blades to allow for
the jetpack straps to feed through.
· Must have curved cutout at the bottom to allow for jetpack
harness/straps.
· Connects to collar armor via 4 square silver metal/metallic studs.
· The studs may be functional connectors or decorative. If the studs are
not the functional connection between collar and back plate, no other
attachment method may be visible.

Level 2:
Level 3:

Jetpack
For 501st approval:
· The colors for the jetpack are: medium blue, silver, white, black,
yellow-orange, and red.
· Must have the following main components: one center tank and two
side fuel tanks, "piano keys" stretching horizontally at the top of the
main body on each side of the center raised strip, one center missile,
two side mounted thrusters / nozzles, one beacon light and one
stabilizer.
· Must attach snugly against the backplate via two white/canvas nylon shoulder straps
which exit the backplate armor through two slots located near the
shoulder blades.
· All patterns, colors and weathering must match visual references as
closely as possible.
· Lettering symbols and pinstriping (either hand painted or decals) must
match visual references as closely as possible

Level 2:
· Must have a white light in the beacon
· Must attach to the harness via two metal hooks that exit the rear of the
jetpack.
· Must have a black webbing waist belt connected either to the pack
itself or a harness. This belt must have an accurate US Divers buckle
(or replica).

Level 3:
· Must have accurate scuba tank frame with black webbing waist belt connected to include the accurate US Divers buckle (or replica).


Cape
For 501st approval:
· Olive green canvas cape hung from the outer stud on the left
shoulder.
· Cape is approximately 30" wide by 36" long.
· Cape must be tattered and weathered.

For level two certification (if applicable):
· Cape must be made from an accurate US Army shelter half.
For level three certification (if applicable):

Wookee Scalps
For 501st approval:
· Blond, brown and black braided loops of hair hung from the right
shoulder. (Black, blonde and silver grey is also acceptable)
· Color and ornaments on the braids must be consistent with visual
reference.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Shoulder Armor
For 501st approval:
· Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
· Must be golden yellow in color and weathered where indicated in visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
· Must have six points to the armor and curve around the upper arm.
· Must attach securely to shoulders of the vest .
· The left shoulder has a red Mythosaur skull symbol on a white
background. The RotJ skull has horns that are not attached to the
skull.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Left Gauntlet
For 501st approval:
· Gauntlets are dark red / burgundy in color and are weathered where indicated to reasonably match visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
· A Casio MQ-1 Calculator keypad (or cast replica) appears at the wrist.
· A vintage dental expander (or cast replica) is mounted near the
keypad.
· A rocket is mounted to the top of the arm. The rocket must match
visual references.

  • There is a hose taped to the back of the missle which runs up under the back plate of the armor (This is present on the Promo Shot version)
· A flame thrower housing is mounted on the outside of the arm.
¨ The flamethrower has 2 nozzles exposed at the wrist end.
¨ 2 momentary pushbuttons are mounted to the top of the housing.
· A round, flat red LED appears near the elbow side of the gauntlet.
· The lower shell of the gauntlet is rounded, with rectangular indents
matching visual reference.

Level 2: Calculator keypad buttons must be painted to match visual reference.
Level 3:

Right Gauntlet
For 501st approval:
· Gauntlets are dark red / burgundy in color and are weathered where indicated to reasonably match visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
· Four small silver darts are mounted at the top of the gauntlet.
· Two silver switches are mounted on the outside facing side.
A cord housing is mounted to the outside of the arm as seen in visual
reference.
¨ One hose connector comes out of the back of this housing. The hose
runs up under the short sleeve of the flight suit. (This is present on the ROTJ film version)
¨A second hose connector is mounted immediately below the first connector. The hose
runs up under the short sleeve of the flight suit. (This is present on the ROTJ film version)
· A third hose connector is attached to the top of the gauntlet. The hose
runs up under the short sleeve of the flight suit. (This is the only hose present on the Promo Shot Version)

Level 2: 2 correct momentary pushbutton switches are used.
· Two of the darts should have black tips to match visual reference.
Level 3:


Gloves
For 501st approval:
· Light grey gloves with white quilted patches on the fingers and back of
hands which match visual reference. The left pad is shorter than the right, and that there are four approximately equal spaced quilts stitched into each.

Level 2: White Military Dress Gloves (with the button on the inner wrist) are used and dyed light gray. Quilting on gloves is made from the shiny side of the tackle twill material, which is sewn onto the gloves.
Level 3:

Flight Suit
For 501st approval:
· The flight suit is light grey and should be fitted to the wearer.
· The suit has long sleeves, with short sleeves on top of them.
· The legs each have small tool pockets on each shin that are open on the top, and larger pockets with flaps on the thighs.
· The suit must be weathered, particularly at the legs.
· The short sleeves must have 4 rows of stitching along the
bottom edge and a vertical seam at the front of the arm.
· Must have either 1 or 5 rows of stitching around the ankles.

Level 2:
Level 3:

Ammo Belt
For 501st approval:
· A medium brown leather or leather like belt that secures via velcro in
the rear.
· The belt has 8, 12, 13 or 14 ammo pouches on the front with no gaps between them.

  • There are 14 ammo pouches present on the promo version of the suit
· Ammo belt has 6 decorative grommets on the back.

Level 2:
Level 3:

Hip Pouches
For 501st approval:
· A pouch is present at each hip.
· Pouches are biege and must be weathered.
· Pouches have angled flaps at the top.
· Pouches are mounted via fabric loops under the ammo belt. The loops are the full width of the pouches.


Level 2:
Level 3:


Girth Belt
For 501st approval:
· The girth belt is a dark red multi-strand rope belt wrapping around the
front of the body.
· In the back there is a gap of 6-8 inches.
· The girth belt has 4 silver buckles on the rear, connected via black
straps.

Level 2: Must use proper horse girth belt
Level 3:


Codpiece
For 501st approval:
· The codpiece wraps around the front of the body, connecting to the
kidney plate on the sides via 2 square metal/metal-like studs.
· The codpiece must have a dent in the front, matching visual references.
· The studs may be functional connectors or decorative. If the studs are
not the functional connection between cod and kidney, no other
attachment method may be visible.
· The kidney plate is a medium/dark green with weathering that displays
and exposed silver base color with yellow edges around the damage.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Kidney Plate
For 501st approval:
· The kidney plate wraps around the back of the body, connecting to the
codpiece on the sides via 2 square metal/metal-like studs.
· The studs may be functional connectors or decorative. If the studs are
not the functional connection between cod and kidney, no other
attachment method may be visible.
· The kidney plate is a medium/dark green with weathering that displays
and exposed silver base color with yellow edges around the damage.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Knee Armor
For 501st approval:
· Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
Must be golden yellow in color and weathered where indicated in visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.

  • The left knee must match the Pre-Pro 2 Paint scheme (This is present on the Promo version only)
· Must attach via a 1" dirty white elastic strap around the back of the
knee.
· The left knee has 2 cylindrical dart launchers on the outside. These
launchers must match visual references.
· The right knee has 1 cylindrical dart launcher on the outside (bottom
position) and a tapered metal detail in the top position. These details
must match visual references.
· Inner section must form an upside down "F" pattern as shown in
reference images.

Level 2: On the left knee, the top dart must have a red ring facing front. The bottom dart and the dart on the right knee must have a black ring.
Level 3:

Shin Tool: Sonic Beam Weapon
For 501st approval:
· May be made as shown in the Star Wars Visual Dictionary or from
original found part.
· The Sonic Beam Weapon is a Paterson Squeegee, still available from
photography supply companies. (or cast replica)

Level 2:
Level 3:


Shin Tool: Anti-Security Blade
For 501st approval:
· May be made as shown in the Star Wars Visual Dictionary or from
original found part.
· The Anti-Security Blade is made from the cut off portion of the
Paterson squeegee combined with 2 stylus brush parts from a Michell
Engineering stylus brush. (or cast replica)

Level 2:
Level 3:

Shin Tool: Survival Knife
For 501st approval:
· May be made as shown in the Star Wars Visual Dictionary or from
original found part.
· The survival knife is made from a Paterson chemical stirrer, still
available from photography supply companies. (or cast replica)

Level 2:
Level 3:

Shin Tool: Jetpack Adjustment Tool
For 501st approval:
· The found item for this part has not been identified.
· The Jetpack Adjustment Tool is a silver colored cylinder fitted into the
tool pockets.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Spats
For 501st approval:
· The top of the boot is covered by a fabric spat of similar color to the
flight suit and be weathered. Spats should be long enough to cover the top of the boots and secure in the back with Velcro. Front of the spat should have a curved shape.

  • The spats must be khaki in color and weathered (This is present on the Promo Shot Version)


Level 2:
Level 3


Boots
For 501st approval:
· Canvas / fabric boots with black piping running in 2 lines from toe to
ankle.
· Elastic, U-Shaped black cutouts on the sides
· White, flat soles.
· 2 spikes attached at the toe via a toe plate. Spikes and plates are
metal, or should appear to be metal.
· Boots must be heavily weathered as shown in reference images.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Optional Accessories
Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present
must meet the guidelines below.

Return of the Jedi EE-3
For 501st approval:
· Made from a Webley MK VI Flare gun (or replica)
Barrel modified for ROTJ with T track installed to match visual
reference.
· ASI or similar 4x20 scope mounted to the top.
· Accurate detail pieces installed on the sides of gun and stock.

Level 2:
Level 3:
For level three certification (if applicable):
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't normally cut and paste this much but here you go...........................

Helmet (ESB Paint Scheme)
Must have a dark colored, full one piece "T" visor.
Must have a rangefinder stalk on the right side of the helmet.
The rangefinger stalk must be a silver metal / metallic in appearance.
The rangefinder topper must be black with a translucent lower piece, black framed window and the appearance of 2 red "lights" on the top.
Must have 14 "Kill Stripes" on left side of helmet, painted yellow and fading to yellow-orange as they progress to the back of the helmet.
The mandibles, head band and key slot area must be a dark red/burgundy color.
The upper cheeks must be a weathered black color.
The right ear must be an earthen/tan color with a white and black upside-down "U" shape on the top portion with 9 small, weathered black stripes just above the split in the earpiece.
The left ear must be olive-green in color with an upside down white "U" shape on the top portion with red and silver weathering showing through.
The dome and lower cheeks must be a light olive green in color.
The right cheek has a "borden connector" detail piece (or replica) installed.
The dome features a prominent dent in the left-front portion.
The helmet back must be primarily dark blue-green in color.
The helmet must be weathered and should match the visual references as closely as possible, both in colors and weathering patterns.
The keyhole slots in the rear of helmet must have a Casio MQ-1 circuit board (or cast replica) mounted in the openings. This detail may be cast into the helmet or mounted behind cut out openings in the slots.

Level 2 - T-Visor must be smoke gray. Must have two red LEDs sticking out of the top of the rangefinder with an alternating flashing sequence when the rangefinder is in the down position and a white light in the frosted clear bottom.

Level 3


Neck Seal
For 501st approval:
· A quilted neck seal made from the same fabric as the vest covers the
neck.
· Horizontal ribs run along the seal.
· The seal closes in the front via hooks or velcro.

Level 2: Must be made from accurate "tackle twill" material.
For level three certification (if applicable):

Armor Vest
For 501st approval:
· Must be light gray in color and weathered.
· Must close down the back.
· Must have short shoulder tabs to mount the shoulder armor. These
tabs must be quilted, running from the end of the tab up to the
shoulder.
· Must have slits cut into the back of the vest in order for the jetpack
harness straps to feed through.
· Must allow for the attachment of chest, back, belly, shoulder and collar
armor.
· Must be short enough to stop before hitting the girth belt. It should be
no longer than necessary to mount the armor. (Approximately 1/2" past the armor)

Level 2: Must be made from accurate "tackle twill" fabric.
Level 3:

Chest armor
For 501st approval:
· Consists of collar armor, left and right breast plates, a center diamond
and an abdominal plate.
· Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
Must be medium/dark green with weathering that appears to expose a
silver base color with yellow edges around the damage. Weathered where indicated to reasonably match visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.

  • The physical dents on the armor must match the ESB armor in shape and size. The paint scheme would match the ROTJ references. (This is present on the Promo Shot version)
· Left breast plate must have two cut out horizontal bars, the lower one
to be wider and positioned as shown in visual references.
· Left breast plate slots must be backed by a translucent screen.
· The right breast plate has a decal in the upper right. The decal must be
present and match visual reference.
· Center diamond plate between breast plates must have an indented silver
vertical rectangle as shown in visual references.
· Must attach securely to the front of the vest
· The collar armor connects to the back plate via 4 square silver
metal/metallic studs.
· The studs may be functional connectors or decorative. If the studs are
not the functional connection between collar and back plate, no other
attachment method may be visible.

Level 2 : Chest slots must have an illuminated red display, flashing in a pattern
consistent with film reference.

Level 3:


Back Armor
For 501st approval:
· Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
· Must be medium/dark green with weathering that appears to expose a
silver base color with yellow edges around the damage. Weathered where indicated to reasonably match visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
· Must have two rectangular slots over the shoulder blades to allow for
the jetpack straps to feed through.
· Must have curved cutout at the bottom to allow for jetpack
harness/straps.
· Connects to collar armor via 4 square silver metal/metallic studs.
· The studs may be functional connectors or decorative. If the studs are
not the functional connection between collar and back plate, no other
attachment method may be visible.

Level 2:
Level 3:

Jetpack
For 501st approval:
· The colors for the jetpack are: medium blue, silver, white, black,
yellow-orange, and red.
· Must have the following main components: one center tank and two
side fuel tanks, "piano keys" stretching horizontally at the top of the
main body on each side of the center raised strip, one center missile,
two side mounted thrusters / nozzles, one beacon light and one
stabilizer.
· Must attach snugly against the backplate via two white/canvas nylon shoulder straps
which exit the backplate armor through two slots located near the
shoulder blades.
· All patterns, colors and weathering must match visual references as
closely as possible.
· Lettering symbols and pinstriping (either hand painted or decals) must
match visual references as closely as possible

Level 2:
· Must have a white light in the beacon
· Must attach to the harness via two metal hooks that exit the rear of the
jetpack.
· Must have a black webbing waist belt connected either to the pack
itself or a harness. This belt must have an accurate US Divers buckle
(or replica).

Level 3:
· Must have accurate scuba tank frame with black webbing waist belt connected to include the accurate US Divers buckle (or replica).


Cape
For 501st approval:
· Olive green canvas cape hung from the outer stud on the left
shoulder.
· Cape is approximately 30" wide by 36" long.
· Cape must be tattered and weathered.

For level two certification (if applicable):
· Cape must be made from an accurate US Army shelter half.
For level three certification (if applicable):

Wookee Scalps
For 501st approval:
· Blond, brown and black braided loops of hair hung from the right
shoulder. (Black, blonde and silver grey is also acceptable)
· Color and ornaments on the braids must be consistent with visual
reference.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Shoulder Armor
For 501st approval:
· Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
· Must be golden yellow in color and weathered where indicated in visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
· Must have six points to the armor and curve around the upper arm.
· Must attach securely to shoulders of the vest .
· The left shoulder has a red Mythosaur skull symbol on a white
background. The RotJ skull has horns that are not attached to the
skull.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Left Gauntlet
For 501st approval:
· Gauntlets are dark red / burgundy in color and are weathered where indicated to reasonably match visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
· A Casio MQ-1 Calculator keypad (or cast replica) appears at the wrist.
· A vintage dental expander (or cast replica) is mounted near the
keypad.
· A rocket is mounted to the top of the arm. The rocket must match
visual references.

  • There is a hose taped to the back of the missle which runs up under the back plate of the armor (This is present on the Promo Shot version)
· A flame thrower housing is mounted on the outside of the arm.
¨ The flamethrower has 2 nozzles exposed at the wrist end.
¨ 2 momentary pushbuttons are mounted to the top of the housing.
· A round, flat red LED appears near the elbow side of the gauntlet.
· The lower shell of the gauntlet is rounded, with rectangular indents
matching visual reference.

Level 2: Calculator keypad buttons must be painted to match visual reference.
Level 3:

Right Gauntlet
For 501st approval:
· Gauntlets are dark red / burgundy in color and are weathered where indicated to reasonably match visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.
· Four small silver darts are mounted at the top of the gauntlet.
· Two silver switches are mounted on the outside facing side.
A cord housing is mounted to the outside of the arm as seen in visual
reference.
¨ One hose connector comes out of the back of this housing. The hose
runs up under the short sleeve of the flight suit. (This is present on the ROTJ film version)
¨A second hose connector is mounted immediately below the first connector. The hose
runs up under the short sleeve of the flight suit. (This is present on the ROTJ film version)
· A third hose connector is attached to the top of the gauntlet. The hose
runs up under the short sleeve of the flight suit. (This is the only hose present on the Promo Shot Version)

Level 2: 2 correct momentary pushbutton switches are used.
· Two of the darts should have black tips to match visual reference.
Level 3:


Gloves
For 501st approval:
· Light grey gloves with white quilted patches on the fingers and back of
hands which match visual reference. The left pad is shorter than the right, and that there are four approximately equal spaced quilts stitched into each.

Level 2: White Military Dress Gloves (with the button on the inner wrist) are used and dyed light gray. Quilting on gloves is made from the shiny side of the tackle twill material, which is sewn onto the gloves.
Level 3:

Flight Suit
For 501st approval:
· The flight suit is light grey and should be fitted to the wearer.
· The suit has long sleeves, with short sleeves on top of them.
· The legs each have small tool pockets on each shin that are open on the top, and larger pockets with flaps on the thighs.
· The suit must be weathered, particularly at the legs.
· The short sleeves must have 4 rows of stitching along the
bottom edge and a vertical seam at the front of the arm.
· Must have either 1 or 5 rows of stitching around the ankles.

Level 2:
Level 3:

Ammo Belt
For 501st approval:
· A medium brown leather or leather like belt that secures via velcro in
the rear.
· The belt has 8, 12, 13 or 14 ammo pouches on the front with no gaps between them.

  • There are 14 ammo pouches present on the promo version of the suit
· Ammo belt has 6 decorative grommets on the back.

Level 2:
Level 3:

Hip Pouches
For 501st approval:
· A pouch is present at each hip.
· Pouches are biege and must be weathered.
· Pouches have angled flaps at the top.
· Pouches are mounted via fabric loops under the ammo belt. The loops are the full width of the pouches.


Level 2:
Level 3:


Girth Belt
For 501st approval:
· The girth belt is a dark red multi-strand rope belt wrapping around the
front of the body.
· In the back there is a gap of 6-8 inches.
· The girth belt has 4 silver buckles on the rear, connected via black
straps.

Level 2: Must use proper horse girth belt
Level 3:


Codpiece
For 501st approval:
· The codpiece wraps around the front of the body, connecting to the
kidney plate on the sides via 2 square metal/metal-like studs.
· The codpiece must have a dent in the front, matching visual references.
· The studs may be functional connectors or decorative. If the studs are
not the functional connection between cod and kidney, no other
attachment method may be visible.
· The kidney plate is a medium/dark green with weathering that displays
and exposed silver base color with yellow edges around the damage.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Kidney Plate
For 501st approval:
· The kidney plate wraps around the back of the body, connecting to the
codpiece on the sides via 2 square metal/metal-like studs.
· The studs may be functional connectors or decorative. If the studs are
not the functional connection between cod and kidney, no other
attachment method may be visible.
· The kidney plate is a medium/dark green with weathering that displays
and exposed silver base color with yellow edges around the damage.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Knee Armor
For 501st approval:
· Must have dimension and give the feeling of thickness and depth.
Must be golden yellow in color and weathered where indicated in visual
references to give the illusion of battle wear and damage.

  • The left knee must match the Pre-Pro 2 Paint scheme (This is present on the Promo version only)
· Must attach via a 1" dirty white elastic strap around the back of the
knee.
· The left knee has 2 cylindrical dart launchers on the outside. These
launchers must match visual references.
· The right knee has 1 cylindrical dart launcher on the outside (bottom
position) and a tapered metal detail in the top position. These details
must match visual references.
· Inner section must form an upside down "F" pattern as shown in
reference images.

Level 2: On the left knee, the top dart must have a red ring facing front. The bottom dart and the dart on the right knee must have a black ring.
Level 3:

Shin Tool: Sonic Beam Weapon
For 501st approval:
· May be made as shown in the Star Wars Visual Dictionary or from
original found part.
· The Sonic Beam Weapon is a Paterson Squeegee, still available from
photography supply companies. (or cast replica)

Level 2:
Level 3:


Shin Tool: Anti-Security Blade
For 501st approval:
· May be made as shown in the Star Wars Visual Dictionary or from
original found part.
· The Anti-Security Blade is made from the cut off portion of the
Paterson squeegee combined with 2 stylus brush parts from a Michell
Engineering stylus brush. (or cast replica)

Level 2:
Level 3:

Shin Tool: Survival Knife
For 501st approval:
· May be made as shown in the Star Wars Visual Dictionary or from
original found part.
· The survival knife is made from a Paterson chemical stirrer, still
available from photography supply companies. (or cast replica)

Level 2:
Level 3:

Shin Tool: Jetpack Adjustment Tool
For 501st approval:
· The found item for this part has not been identified.
· The Jetpack Adjustment Tool is a silver colored cylinder fitted into the
tool pockets.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Spats
For 501st approval:
· The top of the boot is covered by a fabric spat of similar color to the
flight suit and be weathered. Spats should be long enough to cover the top of the boots and secure in the back with Velcro. Front of the spat should have a curved shape.

  • The spats must be khaki in color and weathered (This is present on the Promo Shot Version)


Level 2:
Level 3


Boots
For 501st approval:
· Canvas / fabric boots with black piping running in 2 lines from toe to
ankle.
· Elastic, U-Shaped black cutouts on the sides
· White, flat soles.
· 2 spikes attached at the toe via a toe plate. Spikes and plates are
metal, or should appear to be metal.
· Boots must be heavily weathered as shown in reference images.

Level 2:
Level 3:


Optional Accessories
Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present
must meet the guidelines below.

Return of the Jedi EE-3
For 501st approval:
· Made from a Webley MK VI Flare gun (or replica)
Barrel modified for ROTJ with T track installed to match visual
reference.
· ASI or similar 4x20 scope mounted to the top.
· Accurate detail pieces installed on the sides of gun and stock.

Level 2:
Level 3:
For level three certification (if applicable):

Wow your the man, thanks so much


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Here is the link to the conversation a lot of great information in it and it was very neat/interesting to see how these guys got it all on the table I love this version of the costume it has quite a story behind it check out how they did it if you haven't already


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Thanks a ton, I appreciate it


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Yeah bud, hope it helps... it's a long read, but it's just so cool how these guys put it together... there was so much research done on this style and this read gave me a whole new appreciation for it and made me even more proud to wear it!!! Soon....my costume comes in tomorrow lol


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No way!!!! Haha you gotta post something I wanna see it. Whose doing it?


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It was a trade deal let's just say I traded ALOT of my cool nerd stuff for it haha but well worth it it's everything SE fett except a painted helmet and a blaster other than that Everything is there I'll make a post tomorrow


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Looking forward to seeing it too!

It was a trade deal let's just say I traded ALOT of my cool nerd stuff for it haha but well worth it it's everything SE fett except a painted helmet and a blaster other than that Everything is there I'll make a post tomorrow


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