FettPride V3 / SR V1 Rubber Knee Signup

I'm wondering -- if peeps were really worried about that split on the back of the dart launcher -- if you couldn't fill it with something. Bondo or hobby putty might not work because it lacks flex, but maybe some kind of latex caulk? But then the issue is that you can't actually sand that down smooth....

Maybe with paint it would be less noticeable? I doubt it is a big deal, M.

Certainly nothing to derail my interest.

-C
 
I'm wondering -- if peeps were really worried about that split on the back of the dart launcher -- if you couldn't fill it with something. Bondo or hobby putty might not work because it lacks flex, but maybe some kind of latex caulk? But then the issue is that you can't actually sand that down smooth....

Maybe with paint it would be less noticeable? I doubt it is a big deal, M.

Certainly nothing to derail my interest.

-C

Its less noticible once painted. The reason its so noticible now is because the under rubber is a different sheen. Im going to give it a shot to tweak the mold further. Going to try to get some of it to release with rubbing alcohal and mold release.

I have a picture of the 'cold cast' for you Mad, some good some bad:)
 
I'm wondering -- if peeps were really worried about that split on the back of the dart launcher -- if you couldn't fill it with something. Bondo or hobby putty might not work because it lacks flex, but maybe some kind of latex caulk? But then the issue is that you can't actually sand that down smooth....

Black latex caulking should do the trick perfectly, and will be paintable.
 
Black latex caulking should do the trick perfectly, and will be paintable.

The lip is VERY thin. Like I said with the part on your knee you cant see it at all. But I inspect everything from 10 inches away, and I found it.

I wanted perfect, and unfortunately its not. And I am only mentioning it because I dont want dissapointment.

On a side note. Im going to pre-send FP (Chris) $500 in light of the sign up list. Once I have recouped that, I will send him another 500.

Thanks for helping out everyone.
 
ColdCast Try 1:

The powder coat cold cast shows through in some spots. They look like jango knees actually. Once fully whiped, i dont knowhow much this will show through. This is with a brief whipe down with no water. Its not difficult. But it takes a lot longer, and theres more product for me to 'purchase'.

What do you think. Worth it?

I dont know how well paint will stick.

coldcast.jpg


NOTE: From 10 inches you can see the blemish mark on the left size of the picture knee. From the 3 foot picture you cant see it.
 
I used this technique when I did a run of rubber spear tips for "300" spears and have found that hard urethane resin grabs the powder far better then the rubber dose for some reason and it dose eventually rub off almost completely with the rubber pieces. One thing that works well is an acrylic based silver paint. Airbrush or rattle can it in the mold and allow it 20 minutes to dry. Then pour your mold. The rubber will bond to it no problem.
 
If you feel comfortable doing so you can remove the problem area by very carefully trimming the silicone inside the mold with a scalpel but I wouldn't use an exacto. From the pics and reading your post it sounds like if you were to look into the mold in the area in question there would be a very thin raised area where part of your model separated. Trim that off and your problem is solved.

Ok, The good news and bad news thus far.

Heres a pic of the good and the bad. Heres the first full pull tonight. Came out great. From 2 feet away its perfect.

However when you get up close, theres a spot on the dart launcher rear that has a seep line. What this means is that the model came un-sealed when i removed my mount. Some silicone got under it. A paper thin sheet. So you have essencially a paper thin gap in the rubber. Third picture.

I didnt see this on my first pull, because I didnt use enough rubber to fully pull that side of the mold:) So the top was just missing. Its also on an undercut so on initial clean up, id idnt see it. Today I saw part of it, but didnt know how far it went till I got home.

I still give these an 8.5 - 9 right out of the mold. But they arent 10's.

Anyone thats made a mold of this magnitude knows that you rarely get perfect.

The problem here is the mold has to be 'hot' when you pour the rubber. Or it wont cure properly. So I had to make it a big block mold.

A 4 gallon block mold. Which cost $649for just the silicone from alumilite. Im telling you thyis because if it was a 10 dollar mold. Id remake it. Even a hundred dollar mold. But I cant remake a 600 dollar mold:/

That being said examine the pictures and if you want off the list, pm me. I personally cant see the line from 2 feet away.
goodnewsbadnews.jpg
 
Thanks evan, Thanks alot. Ill get a scalpal from work tomorrow and attempt to clean a little of it up, if it goes well, ill do the whole thing.

I work at a hospital and I have very steady hands, so it shouldnt be bad. I just never thought of it.

And thanks for the info on the acrylic paint. I tried that once before. It made a mess and was hard to clean out of the mold. After ive run off 10-20 sets, ill try that and see if i can get some good silver pulls.

Thanks a million. Your help is always appreciated evan.
 
I should have 3 sets of knees to go out tomorrow.

1 jet black. 1 has some 'residual silver' on it from the cold cast, and this other set should be jet black again.

I need to make sure first. The darts arent ready yet. Im trying the best way to do them so the dart included kits will be a week out or so. I apologize for the wait. I dont want to send darts that suck. I hope you understand.

That being said, if your in the first list, and you dont mind getting a set of knees with a slight 'silver' tint to them, PM me. Ill bump you up and get you the paypal addy and yours may get shipped tomorrow!

Im not going to fully trim them. The trimming can be done EASILY with any small scissors. Grooming scissors are the best (small with curved blades).

I figured you could be as precise or as quick as you wanted.

They will be rough trimmed. Remember the parting line is on the INSIDE edge of the knee, So you shouldnt see much of a parting line even if you do it like a tasmanian devil.

Thanks
Mason
 
Stormrider, I personally don't mind the residuals, but that being said, I'm not in a hurry to get these as I won't be able to use them for a while. I also read about the painting into the mold and wouldn't mind my set being the test for it. Experiment away!

Chris
 
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