Rangefinder LED unit - now available
- Thread starter hyperdyne
- Start date
bobafett669
Active Hunter
Ditto on the Rubies rangefinder. I have tried to get it in there but the components on the bottom as well as the battery holder are preventing the top from going on.
Galactic Hunter
Active Hunter
HEY GUYS:
I've been through this hole hyperdyne rangefinder nightmare already. It's to tall, the rangefinder top isn't deep enough, yada! yada! yada!
Here's what you do: (1) The prongs that control the pinging can be cut off and it does not ruin the circuit board / functionality of the unit! Although this leaves you with only 1 variation for the pinging, ONE PING on Top and TWO PINGS on BOTTOM and the REAR HUD DISPLAY light still works, in my opinion and after viewing the different variations, this was the most interesting anyway! (2) The wires that run to the two front LED's can be bent into a "L" shape or completely back on each other, just be carefull to execute this with a needle pliers and not go in with a sledgehammer! Doing this reduces the depth even further. (3) If you still need more room, You can
get plastic-styrene at any hobby shop and build up the side walls another
3/16 of an inch and it won't distort the look of the rangefinder, I had my
ESB Fett costume at C3 and had alot of compliments on my set-up. I know this might be alot to take in, but if you need more questions answered or pictures. Let me know!
THX!
Eric
a.k.a. Galactic Bounty Hunter
I've been through this hole hyperdyne rangefinder nightmare already. It's to tall, the rangefinder top isn't deep enough, yada! yada! yada!
Here's what you do: (1) The prongs that control the pinging can be cut off and it does not ruin the circuit board / functionality of the unit! Although this leaves you with only 1 variation for the pinging, ONE PING on Top and TWO PINGS on BOTTOM and the REAR HUD DISPLAY light still works, in my opinion and after viewing the different variations, this was the most interesting anyway! (2) The wires that run to the two front LED's can be bent into a "L" shape or completely back on each other, just be carefull to execute this with a needle pliers and not go in with a sledgehammer! Doing this reduces the depth even further. (3) If you still need more room, You can
get plastic-styrene at any hobby shop and build up the side walls another
3/16 of an inch and it won't distort the look of the rangefinder, I had my
ESB Fett costume at C3 and had alot of compliments on my set-up. I know this might be alot to take in, but if you need more questions answered or pictures. Let me know!
THX!
Eric
a.k.a. Galactic Bounty Hunter
superjedi
Sr Hunter
Eric,
First of all, let me congratulate you on having an awesome name!
As most everyone knows, all "Erics" with a "C" are excellent. . . while "Eriks" with a "K" are evil (Sorry any Eriks out there. This has been definitively proven through the independent research company of "My Wife and Her Friend Tracy")
Secondly, and nearly as important; that is good news about the Hyperdyne setup. I don't mind bending a few LED leads. Thanks for the info!
Eric
First of all, let me congratulate you on having an awesome name!
As most everyone knows, all "Erics" with a "C" are excellent. . . while "Eriks" with a "K" are evil
(Sorry any Eriks out there. This has been definitively proven through the independent research company of "My Wife and Her Friend Tracy")Secondly, and nearly as important; that is good news about the Hyperdyne setup. I don't mind bending a few LED leads. Thanks for the info!
Eric
bobafett669
Active Hunter
I'll get some photos up of how I modified mine to fit in the rubies Jango Rangefinder. Very similar to above but I did not cut off the prongs, just bent them under
Hi guys,
I very much appreciate the feedback on what install issues you are running into. If you have any concrete info on how I can better the design, please feel free to let me know! I will do what I can to make the install easier for you.
Yes, you can cut down the header pins with no ill effects. Plus if you need to choose another pinging sequence, you can just short the pads on the other side of the board with a small wire. Maybe that is a good first step. The default pinging in the Fett ESB sequence anyway, so hopefully that is what most guys want. I can also install the header pins at a right angle, but previously I was told that wouldnt fit width wise in the RF.
You can also bend the red LED legs with no problems. Or you can hit the pads with a soldering iron and move the LED leads down more. I wanted to make sure you have enough lead, because having too short LED leads is not as easy to modify.
Again, sorry for any inconvenience. Please realize I designed the first board based on my old measurements - plus I didnt have these newer hollow RFs in my possession. I am willing to assemble the boards differently to help out with these install issues.
Jim
I very much appreciate the feedback on what install issues you are running into. If you have any concrete info on how I can better the design, please feel free to let me know! I will do what I can to make the install easier for you.
Yes, you can cut down the header pins with no ill effects. Plus if you need to choose another pinging sequence, you can just short the pads on the other side of the board with a small wire. Maybe that is a good first step. The default pinging in the Fett ESB sequence anyway, so hopefully that is what most guys want. I can also install the header pins at a right angle, but previously I was told that wouldnt fit width wise in the RF.
You can also bend the red LED legs with no problems. Or you can hit the pads with a soldering iron and move the LED leads down more. I wanted to make sure you have enough lead, because having too short LED leads is not as easy to modify.
Again, sorry for any inconvenience. Please realize I designed the first board based on my old measurements - plus I didnt have these newer hollow RFs in my possession. I am willing to assemble the boards differently to help out with these install issues.
Jim
