General Boba Fett ROTJ Build

Hello!

My name is Francisco and I am a member of the 501st Legion PR Garrison, TX 7798.

I only have EU costumes, a ShadowTrooper and DarthbRevan, but my all times favorite has and will always be Boba Fett, specially ROTJ, so I am trying to build a ROTJ. I didn't realize how hard the build is until I started with...the Helmet!!! And I fully understand why I have seen people with the skills to do it themselves decide to ask for help and sens their buckets to pros for painting with outstanding results I have to add. In my case I like to do things myself because is part of the fun and, on this particular build, I am on a tight budget (a bad thing when aiming for The Fett).

I am going to post the progress I've made so far.

I must add that this is the only and first time I try to do a Boba Fett while aiming at approval for the 501st and actually trying to follow tutorials, I am by no means an expert on this but I hope to make a good enough job worthy of the great things I have seen made here. I also hope that even if the end results is not up to the standards, thatbat least others with more skills than me can follow this process and make it work.

The Helmet is almost done, it took me almost a month to paint it so I will upload pictures and add comments on what I am doing and how I applied the stencils and everything else.

Here is how it turned out.

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Hope you like it!

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Anime Fan Lid!!! The moment it arrived gelt like Christmas!!!

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After enjoying this piece of art for a while, the first thing I did was to open the space for the visor, I probably should have waited a little to do this, but one learns as one goes I guess.


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The great thing about cold cast is that it removes an entire paint step from the whole process, and this for a Boba Fett helmet is a plus if you ask me.

Once ready the second step was to buff it up with this.


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Next, STENCILS!
 
I used Rafal Works Stencils for this project.

I could not figure out how to print them to match the helmet size so I opted to work with them at the normal size they come and move them around starting at the sidez, top and buttom part of the panels I was doing in order to match their position to the best of my abilities.

The center pieces where applied using the "eye% guesstimation system"

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I bought the Wax free tracing down paper to trace the stencils on the lid, but it turns out that this particular one will not trace on the helmet so I opted to do it like this after suggested by a friend from my Garrison who finished his ROTJ helmet a few months ago.



Masking tape applied direcctly to the panel I wanted to paint works fine.

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You can probably tell by looking at the picture above that this was going to be a complete screw up...well, it was, the tracing was a dissaster, the darn thing moved and it came out croocked, here is how it looked once ready.

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So, after bangin my head against the wall a few times, I scraped the thing and started again.

I use quick drying paint because I have no patience at all, on this case, the Moss Green paint (I an adding the paints later on top of the thread) doesn't dries fast, so to scrape it was very easy.

Next, Stencils, second attempt.
 
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Adding the stencils again.

I used several approaches to this, but most of it was by drawing directly to the masking tape, eitherndirectly into the helmet or laid flat over a piece of plastic to then apply it to the helmet.

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Tooth paste is a good option to cover the damage designs, but I also used masking fluis for some parts.

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Once done and the paint dried I sanded it down a bit to kill the gloss on the green and then added a very light coat of gray over everything.

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Thanks Syllander.

I used this (the knife of x-akto ) to cut the tape (stenciled) it is a little dull and I found it works best because it causes less damage to the helmet if you decide to cit directly from it.

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Thanks! I will post the blaster build and weathering process here, too.
 
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Right side.

After tracing the stencils on a flat surface I applied the to the right panel. The advantage here is that you can move them around if you face the problem I faced where my stencils came out shorter.

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This is where Cold Cast earns its value if you ask me. I just need to remove all the parts I am painting and what stays metallic gray you do not have to touch, one full step removed from the process and several hours of work, too.

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Base gray.

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Chrome.

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Results are crude, but when the hand painting is done it changes completely.

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Light gray applied.

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Right side.

The process is the same.

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Lighter green is the base, then I used an eye % guesstimation with the two greens to the final color.

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Upper right and left ckeek bones.

Stencils drawn directly to the lid. The rest of then can be hand painted if you don't mind the work.

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Here I used the masking fluid, one thing I learned is that when using can spray if you want this to work you need to apply a lot of it, then give it time to dry.

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To paint this and try to match the colors I mixed up dark blue as a base the misted it with Hunter gree (Same one used for the back pannels) until you feel the color is right. Eye % calculation.

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Next step: The T Visor frame.
 
Preping the stencils.

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Now to remove them for painting.

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Re-applying them for the red paint.

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Ready for the hand paint details.

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The Dome.

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The stencils came out smaller so I separated them to try to expand them the right size.

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Filled in the gaps with masking fluid.

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End product without weathering it.

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Kill Stripes:

I removed the stencils and applied tooth paste to the areas I don't wanted to paint.

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Next. End Product.
 
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