with mine I filed down all the old edges and held the new one in with 2 chicago screws ( I could only fit 2 without taking it apart.....on my current one I am taking it apart to use more screws) and I also used hot glue to secure it all together.
with mine I filed down all the old edges and held the new one in with 2 chicago screws ( I could only fit 2 without taking it apart.....on my current one I am taking it apart to use more screws) and I also used hot glue to secure it all together.
with mine I filed down all the old edges and held the new one in with 2 chicago screws ( I could only fit 2 without taking it apart.....on my current one I am taking it apart to use more screws) and I also used hot glue to secure it all together.
Yep. A lot of sanding after cutting it out. I used glue (e6000) to hold it in but there are plenty of options there. Chicago screws would work as mentioned. I have used hot glue on a different helmet as well.
I use the layering method with masking and humbrol paint airbrushed..... But I'm currently trying a rotj style with layering mainly rattle cans and some airbrushing... It's come out OK so far..... As for the lights.... They came on the original rubies helmets from the supreme costume... The new ones don't have that feature.
I use the layering method with masking and humbrol paint airbrushed..... But I'm currently trying a rotj style with layering mainly rattle cans and some airbrushing... It's come out OK so far..... As for the lights.... They came on the original rubies helmets from the supreme costume... The new ones don't have that feature. View attachment 93644
yeah it works pretty good.....obviously the airbrush is a better method, but I'm pleased with the results. I'm using just various colours that I find cheap in a shop called buyology.....grey primer, matt black, silver and an army cammo paint for the green. If you want uber accurate you'll need to get the humbrols probably...i did use them for the back pannel green and the mandible red, but yeah its pretty good so far.