brandontrueblue
Jr Hunter
Work of art!
Superjedi's FP Budget ESB for Mynock
- Thread starter superjedi
- Start date
TheBobaFett
Active Hunter
I'm in love It's uncanny dude!
terminal fettler
Active Hunter
Exceptional!
TheBobaFett
Active Hunter
This process never ceases to amaze
superjedi
Sr Hunter
Thanks, everyone. 
The finish is in sight now.
UPDATE: July 27, 2014
Ah, weekends. Lots of Fettin' time!
I got the brow area done, as well as the entire left corner of the visor area. Lots of
tiny chips and scratches, and since these areas frame the upper limit of Boba's "face,"
I make extra sure everything looks proportional and in the correct position.
If damage appears to be missing, it's just the additional handling damage that occurred post-filming,
as well as the crack repair.
The right side of the brow has tons of tiny details within the silver. Also some physical scratches.
Mandible madness starts next!
The finish is in sight now. UPDATE: July 27, 2014
Ah, weekends. Lots of Fettin' time!
I got the brow area done, as well as the entire left corner of the visor area. Lots of
tiny chips and scratches, and since these areas frame the upper limit of Boba's "face,"
I make extra sure everything looks proportional and in the correct position.
If damage appears to be missing, it's just the additional handling damage that occurred post-filming,
as well as the crack repair.
The right side of the brow has tons of tiny details within the silver. Also some physical scratches.
Mandible madness starts next!
superjedi
Sr Hunter
UPDATE: Aug 2, 2014
Whew!!! Been a couple of days, but I finally completed the right mandible. Now I'm going
to the optometrist to get some new eyeballs.
This was done over about 5 sessions over the past 2 or 3 days.
It's subtle, but you can also see that I've given the Borden connector a brass tone and
added the shadows within the 3 holes.
Haven't decided what to do next. I'll either lay down the base coat on the RF ear, or I'll begin
the "effects" painting. That stage includes the white thumbprints, the fade under the killstripes,
the grease stains on the back of the dome, and pastel application.
I guess I'll be as surprised as you!
Prolly won't get too much more done today, as I'm going to see Guardians of the Galaxy
this afternoon! Really looking forward to it.
Whew!!! Been a couple of days, but I finally completed the right mandible. Now I'm going
to the optometrist to get some new eyeballs.
This was done over about 5 sessions over the past 2 or 3 days.
It's subtle, but you can also see that I've given the Borden connector a brass tone and
added the shadows within the 3 holes.
Haven't decided what to do next. I'll either lay down the base coat on the RF ear, or I'll begin
the "effects" painting. That stage includes the white thumbprints, the fade under the killstripes,
the grease stains on the back of the dome, and pastel application.
I guess I'll be as surprised as you!
Prolly won't get too much more done today, as I'm going to see Guardians of the Galaxy
this afternoon! Really looking forward to it.
superjedi
Sr Hunter
UPDATE #2: Aug 2, 2014
Got back from Guardians of the Galaxy a couple hours ago. Go see this movie! What
a great time. Lots of action and humor. Fun for the whole family!
OK, so I had a bit of time before I start losing the afternoon light, so I went ahead and did a
couple of small effects stages. First up is the fade below the killstripes.
This is done with a pretty thinned down acrylic mix. It's so thin that it takes a few seconds
for the color to develop after I apply it. Some areas are very ghostly looking, and some areas
are given a second application to punch up the contrast. There's a very subtle structure in
this detail, with its own chips and shapes. As always, I try to match my work as closely as
I can with the reference pictures.
I did the thumbprints, too. This is done with straight Tamiya flat white, which is a bit thicker
than the Floquils/Polly Scales. But that's what I'm after because I apply it at first with a fine
brush to get the outlines of the shapes, then streak it back with a very stiff-bristled brush.
Tomorrow I should have time to get the base coat down on the RF ear, and continue with
some more effects painting. I'm looking at putting down that pale contrasting gray that's
scattered within the silver.
Hang in there, Mynock! It's getting there.
Got back from Guardians of the Galaxy a couple hours ago. Go see this movie! What
a great time. Lots of action and humor. Fun for the whole family!
OK, so I had a bit of time before I start losing the afternoon light, so I went ahead and did a
couple of small effects stages. First up is the fade below the killstripes.
This is done with a pretty thinned down acrylic mix. It's so thin that it takes a few seconds
for the color to develop after I apply it. Some areas are very ghostly looking, and some areas
are given a second application to punch up the contrast. There's a very subtle structure in
this detail, with its own chips and shapes. As always, I try to match my work as closely as
I can with the reference pictures.
I did the thumbprints, too. This is done with straight Tamiya flat white, which is a bit thicker
than the Floquils/Polly Scales. But that's what I'm after because I apply it at first with a fine
brush to get the outlines of the shapes, then streak it back with a very stiff-bristled brush.
Tomorrow I should have time to get the base coat down on the RF ear, and continue with
some more effects painting. I'm looking at putting down that pale contrasting gray that's
scattered within the silver.
Hang in there, Mynock! It's getting there.
superjedi
Sr Hunter
UPDATE: Aug 3, 2014
OK, wrapping up the weekend's work. I got the things I wanted to accomplish all done.
Base coated the RF ear sections, and applied the pale gray.
The pale gray is a very weird feature. It becomes more or less prominent depending on the
viewing angle. Most of the gray is on the right rear panel, but there's more of it scattered
around the helmet, including around the dent area.
Here's the rear panel where the gray appears to blend in pretty well with the silver.
But when the helmet is rotated and the light catches it at a different angle, the gray pops.
On the front of the helmet, there's an area of the gray down the curve of the right cheek
where the red meets the dark outer cheek. Also a bit above the visor opening. Here's a shot
where it blends in pretty well.
When you begin to rotate the helmet, it starts to be more visible.
I took this last shot just to show how visible it is at an extreme angle.
The dent area contains some of the gray, too. Again, when the helmet is rotated, it becomes
more or less visible. Here are a couple shots just to show how different it looks from different angles.
Looking from the right:
Looking from the left:
So this coming week I'll begin detailing the ears, masking off for the white arch on the left ear, and the black/white
arch on the RF ear, then adding the chips. On the helmet itself, all that's really left to do are the grease stains, and
some pastel weathering, then it should be ready for clear coat!
OK, wrapping up the weekend's work. I got the things I wanted to accomplish all done.
Base coated the RF ear sections, and applied the pale gray.
The pale gray is a very weird feature. It becomes more or less prominent depending on the
viewing angle. Most of the gray is on the right rear panel, but there's more of it scattered
around the helmet, including around the dent area.
Here's the rear panel where the gray appears to blend in pretty well with the silver.
But when the helmet is rotated and the light catches it at a different angle, the gray pops.
On the front of the helmet, there's an area of the gray down the curve of the right cheek
where the red meets the dark outer cheek. Also a bit above the visor opening. Here's a shot
where it blends in pretty well.
When you begin to rotate the helmet, it starts to be more visible.
I took this last shot just to show how visible it is at an extreme angle.
The dent area contains some of the gray, too. Again, when the helmet is rotated, it becomes
more or less visible. Here are a couple shots just to show how different it looks from different angles.
Looking from the right:
Looking from the left:
So this coming week I'll begin detailing the ears, masking off for the white arch on the left ear, and the black/white
arch on the RF ear, then adding the chips. On the helmet itself, all that's really left to do are the grease stains, and
some pastel weathering, then it should be ready for clear coat!
superjedi
Sr Hunter
Thanks, rnbuda!
UPDATE: August 4, 2014
Not much of an update today, I'm afraid. Today was the first dry day in almost a week and I had to
cut the grass. Bleah!
I masked and painted the white arch on the left ear. The chips were done with my W & N masking fluid.
To get that tight curve, I cut very thin strips of blue painters tape, then press them down very carefully
around the perimeter of the arch. The inside curve is even tighter, and it takes a while to make sure the
curve is smooth with no lumps or straight bits. About 20 minutes of masking for 3 minutes of airbrushing!
I'll continue with detailing the ear tomorrow.
UPDATE: August 4, 2014
Not much of an update today, I'm afraid. Today was the first dry day in almost a week and I had to
cut the grass. Bleah!
I masked and painted the white arch on the left ear. The chips were done with my W & N masking fluid.
To get that tight curve, I cut very thin strips of blue painters tape, then press them down very carefully
around the perimeter of the arch. The inside curve is even tighter, and it takes a while to make sure the
curve is smooth with no lumps or straight bits. About 20 minutes of masking for 3 minutes of airbrushing!
I'll continue with detailing the ear tomorrow.
superjedi
Sr Hunter
Thanks again, guys!
UPDATE: Aug 6, 2014
OK, little more progress on the left ear. I got the small markings on, and did the damage on the
majority of the ear. I use dry transfer lettering to do the small markings. They're very thin, and
look almost painted on. They're chipped to approximate the tiny scratches on the real helmet.
The gray and red damage was stenciled, just like on the main portion of the helmet. My trusty
size 5/0 brush comes in very handy on the really small patterns on the ear.
Next I'll work on the bottom facet of the ear, then move around to the damage on the RF ear.
UPDATE: Aug 6, 2014
OK, little more progress on the left ear. I got the small markings on, and did the damage on the
majority of the ear. I use dry transfer lettering to do the small markings. They're very thin, and
look almost painted on. They're chipped to approximate the tiny scratches on the real helmet.
The gray and red damage was stenciled, just like on the main portion of the helmet. My trusty
size 5/0 brush comes in very handy on the really small patterns on the ear.
Next I'll work on the bottom facet of the ear, then move around to the damage on the RF ear.
superjedi
Sr Hunter
UPDATE: Aug 7, 2014
Left ear is done. That bottom facet might as well not even be green!
Lots of gray and red and small chips and details.
Still have to do the weathering, but that will come after all the basic painting is
complete on all parts of the helmet. RF ear detailing is up next!
Left ear is done.
That bottom facet might as well not even be green! Lots of gray and red and small chips and details.
Still have to do the weathering, but that will come after all the basic painting is
complete on all parts of the helmet. RF ear detailing is up next!
