Superjedi's GMH as ESB for Seven

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Jan 19, 2014

• #21

UPDATE: January 19, 2014

The weekend is coming to a close, so here's where the helmet stands as of this afternoon.

On the rear band, I divide the space into thirds. I do the central portion together, then the
left and right sections separately. There's a lot of detail crammed into such a narrow space!
Here's the right section.

The left section is up next, and then it's on to the front!

 

Jc27

Well-Known Hunter

Preferred Vendor

TDH PREMIUM MEMBER

• Jan 19, 2014

• #22

Man super great work.

 

bcurtis

Active Hunter

• Jan 19, 2014

• #23

Dude...just...dude. :love

 

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Jan 22, 2014

• #24

Thanks, guys! It's getting closer. . .

UPDATE: January 23, 2014

Had a bit of extra helmet time today since I took a snow day. The roads around
here were really bad this morning, so I stayed home.

I finished up the last damage section behind the left ear platform. This area will
change appearance slightly at the end of the project when I add the white "thumbprints."

I then moved on around the helmet to the front half. I started with the damage at the
left corner of the T-visor.

Then I did the left half of the brow.

Next I'll do the right half of the brow, and then those crazy mandibles!

 

R

rubio95

Active Hunter

• Jan 22, 2014

• #25

Not much traffic coming through here, these days. But the helmet is looking great, as usual.

But since your paintwork is so consistent, I imagine that these pics could be of any of the ESB lids you've ever painted.

Yes, I said it: this thread may very well be a total lie.

In order to verify that it's legit, I'm gonna need you to prominently place an Arnold Schwarzeneggar film on the movie shelf.

Otherwise I'll call ******** on this entire thread...

...kidding, of course. Looks amazing.

 

Jayvee

Active Hunter

• Jan 23, 2014

• #26

Just a magnificent standard you keep reaching Eric! Brilliant work. I actually think this one has the shapes on the back panels particularly spot on. After you have done so much great work, it likely becomes easier identifying all the little shapes and damage areas...

Loving it you 'Layer-opical genius'!

 

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Jan 24, 2014

• #27

Jonny, remember every time you use the term layer-opical ©, you owe me .8 of a penny!

Rubio, I had a look around and I actually don't own any Arnold Schwarzenegger movies!
I know, pretty disappointing. But I'll try to find something current to prove that this helmet
is being done in "real time!"

UPDATE: January 24, 2013

Somehow, my calendar was a day off. So the last update was really from Jan 22nd. But anyway. . .
Got the remaining section of the brow completed. There are lots of nice tiny chips and flecks
of gray and maroon all jumbled up in this little area.

So this weekend I'll be starting on *gulp* the mandibles!

 

Last edited by a moderator: Aug 2, 2017

Mullreel

Well-Known Hunter

• Jan 24, 2014

• #28

This looks very nice indeed.

Good work.

 

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Jan 25, 2014

• #29

Thanks, Mulreel! It's getting closer every day.

UPDATE: January 25, 2014

Whew! One mandible down, one to go. Of course, this one doesn't make my
eyeballs bleed like the right mandible.

rubio95 said:

Not much traffic coming through here, these days. But the helmet is looking great, as usual.

But since your paintwork is so consistent, I imagine that these pics could be of any of the ESB lids you've ever painted.

Yes, I said it: this thread may very well be a total lie.

In order to verify that it's legit, I'm gonna need you to prominently place an Arnold Schwarzeneggar film on the movie shelf.

Otherwise I'll call ******** on this entire thread...

...kidding, of course. Looks amazing.

Click to expand...

And to satisfy Rubio that these updates are "live" and not reruns. . .

 

thebeans

Hunter

• Jan 25, 2014

• #30

Brilliant, brilliant ,brilliant , superjedi, I'm super jealous of your skills.

 

syllander

Active Hunter

• Jan 25, 2014

• #31

Probably had that shot ready months ago for Ryan!

Man the mandibles look so incredible it just blows me away...Doesn't look like its topical at all. Mad skills man...

 

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Jan 26, 2014

• #32

Thanks guys. The Floquil/Polly Scale paints really do most of the work in keeping
the paint layers very thin. They're very pigment-heavy paints, so only a relatively
light coat is needed.

syllander said:

Probably had that shot ready months ago for Ryan!

...

Click to expand...

Aaaarrgghhh!!! I can't win!

 

Wasted Fett

Literally Asian

• Jan 26, 2014

• #33

*** that's sick!

 

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Jan 29, 2014

• #34

Thanks, Wasteland.

UPDATE: January 29, 2014

Another snow day from work. . . sigh. The weather should start improving tomorrow so
hopefully I won't miss any more. But it gives me a chance to do Fett stuff, so it's not
a total wash!

Got that crazy right mandible done. With the completion of this area, all of
the "basic" painting is finished. Weathering begins next.

I'll now focus on applying the pale contrasting gray chips and the fade under the killstripes.

I already have the base coats on the ears and have started detailing the left one. I need to
finish the ears and temp install them before I do the tan/rusty spatter all over the front of
the helmet. The spatter carries over onto the ears, so it's a lot easier to apply this while
they are on the helmet.
Getting pretty close now!

 

animefan

Active Hunter

• Jan 29, 2014

• #35

Great looking detail! You would make a fine surgeon.

 

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Jan 29, 2014

• #36

I would make a fine fish???? Oh. . . surgeon. Nevermind.

UPDATE #2: January 29, 2014

Putting my time to good use today. I got the contrasting gray on. This is an odd
detail of the ESB helmet. The color is hidden really well within the silver in
certain light, but if you change the lighting or rotate the helmet, it shows up.
The color is found scattered all over the helmet, and here are a couple of highlights.

First, the dent.

From another angle.

Next, the rear panels.

Again, rotated so the light hits at a different angle.

I really like this detail! It's very subtle.
Next I'll work on the fade under the killstripes, then the white thumbprints.

 

NoGoodToM3D3ad

Hunter

• Jan 29, 2014

• #37

So This is what the T-600 works on while waiting for John Connor to be born. You're a Machine.

 

bcurtis

Active Hunter

• Jan 29, 2014

• #38

^ lol!

 

Jayvee

Active Hunter

• Jan 30, 2014

• #39

Ill say it again mate - I really feel the damage on this one is the most spot on you have done. While you always produce some of the most outstanding and consistent work on the boards, I really feel you have done enough of these now, that your eyes are really seeing all the damage shapes perfectly, and have perfected your craft. Amazing work bud!

 

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Feb 1, 2014

• #40

NoGoodToM3D3ad said:

So This is what the T-600 works on while waiting for John Connor to be born. You're a Machine.

Click to expand...

I'm sorry you've discovered my secret. What did I do with that phone book. . . .


Jonny, thanks man! I've never taken on more than one commission at a time, and I think it helps
to only concentrate on one project at a time. Plus, having done a couple of these (ha ha) I have
a very definite mental roadmap to help hone in on the details.

UPDATE: February 1, 2014

Happy Feblueberry! January has come and gone, and we're still chugging away with Seven's helmet.
I completed the first two weathering steps: the killstripe "fade" and the white thumbprints.
To me, the fade has always struck me as masking tape residue, so I mix up a beige-gray-green shade
that looks like the color of masking tape. I thin it so that's it's almost a wash, then use a fine brush
to apply it. Looking at the reference pics, there is structure in there, and I try to match it as closely
as I can.

The thumbprints are brushed on with Tamiya flat white. I apply some white and then quickly
streak it with a stiff bristled brush. I do two or three applications until it gets to the proper opacity.

I had been working on the ears in between other steps and got the left ear completed.
Here it is temporarily in place. I'll remove it again to do the final weathering.

The white arch was masked and airbrushed with the Tamiya flat white. The small markings
were done with dry transfer letters. These are really thin and have an almost painted-on look.
The gray and red damage were done with my trusty size 000 detail brush.

I have already base coated the RF ear parts, so the detailing on those will be next!