rubio95's ESB

Made a fairly large purchase a few days back.

Here we go!

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And I got some more colors laid down last night.

I've got some cleaning up to do, and some more weathering. I went with my own color choices for the last two greens.
Cell phone pics:

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It's nice and I like it. How's the airbrush? Easy to clean?

Very nice work, the colours look good. What mix did you us for the green? How are you finding the Iwata?

Thanks for the compliments. That feels pretty nice, especially since you guys are both big dogs as far as painting.

Regarding the Iwata, it's the Eclipse HP-CS model, and I love it so far. However, I really don't have a frame-of-reference for comparison, since it's my first airbrush. Cleanup hasn't been a problem yet. I want to look into replacing the nozzle and needle, though. I'd like a bit wider spray cone, and my Iwata only came with the .35 needle. Would the .5 open up a larger cone?

I'll be taking the Iwata over to deadland's place soon. Since he has a great deal of experience, he'll be able to give a good review on the airbrush.

I'm also only spraying with an 18psi max compressor. You guys usually go higher than that, right?

And finally, as far as the colors, I'm using a Frankenstein mix for virtually everything. Some Floquils, some Model Masters, and I'm waiting on some Humbrols from across the pond. And a few of the Vallejo yellows are intriguing me for the kill stripes. Other than Lark Dark and Light Gray and Concrete, I'm pretty much bastardizing everything. The final green is MM Euro Dark Green with a healthy mix of MM Dark Sea Blue. And it's still not as bluish as I had hoped. Wait til you see the mixes I'm messing with for the dome and cheeks!
 
Well I don't know about being a big dog, but definitely an old dog;)

Regarding pressure, I tend to go quite low pressure, between 15-20 PSI and get in close and slow, I find that gives a smoother application, with Humbrol enamels anyway...
 
Well I don't know about being a big dog, but definitely an old dog;)

Regarding pressure, I tend to go quite low pressure, between 15-20 PSI and get in close and slow, I find that gives a smoother application, with Humbrol enamels anyway...

You're being modest, my friend.

Thanks for the info regarding pressure. Good to know.
 
I'd say yours is much closer to the ESB color. It might be just a bit too grey, but it matches all the pics where a flash is used. I just wonder if the flash washed just a tad of the green out. I only say that when I look through the reference pics there are a couple without flashes in the SE gallery that show just a hint more green. All in all I think you are incredibly close, and I would say that without seeing the bucket in person, outdoors, to verify the true color to yourself, you have one of the closest colors I have ever seen. It looks great!
 
If you scroll up to the top of the screen they match the ESB Fett in the corner. And those back panels look very well done, back tracking a bit.
 
The color is pretty good. Assuming that you used a powerful light, I did a 'color test' using an image (made with flash light) from the TDH Gallery (photo by Britt Dietz):

Rubio ESB Color Test.jpg Rubio ESB Color Test Lights.jpg

The upper set is with the unmodified light, and the colors are pretty close, but you can see that the gray weathering is much too dark and your green lack a bit of green. The second set has the light reduced with 10% and all the colors matches 95%, because I used these colors to do my stencils. I never use the brightest images as they are distorted, so I use intermediate lights: not too light and/or not too dark. The second images shows the difference between 'normal' light and a 10% reduction.

I say you are pretty close with the base green, but you might warm it up a bit.
 
May just be the photo lighting, but your green looks great. The cheeks on the other bucket look too "Minty green".

I'd say yours is much closer to the ESB color. It might be just a bit too grey, but it matches all the pics where a flash is used. I just wonder if the flash washed just a tad of the green out. I only say that when I look through the reference pics there are a couple without flashes in the SE gallery that show just a hint more green. All in all I think you are incredibly close, and I would say that without seeing the bucket in person, outdoors, to verify the true color to yourself, you have one of the closest colors I have ever seen. It looks great!

If you scroll up to the top of the screen they match the ESB Fett in the corner. And those back panels look very well done, back tracking a bit.

The color is pretty good. Assuming that you used a powerful light, I did a 'color test' using an image (made with flash light) from the TDH Gallery (photo by Britt Dietz):

View attachment 73332 View attachment 73333

The upper set is with the unmodified light, and the colors are pretty close, but you can see that the gray weathering is much too dark and your green lack a bit of green. The second set has the light reduced with 10% and all the colors matches 95%, because I used these colors to do my stencils. I never use the brightest images as they are distorted, so I use intermediate lights: not too light and/or not too dark. The second images shows the difference between 'normal' light and a 10% reduction.

I say you are pretty close with the base green, but you might warm it up a bit.

Thanks, all, for the compliments!

Okay, Rafal, now you and I can get into the nitty gritty.

The gray is not the recommended Reefer Gray, but rather the Lark Dark Gray that is present in some of the paint up color lists. When a darker green is used for the cheeks, the Lark Dark Gray works fine. But since my green is so much lighter, it REALLY makes the gray color have too much of a contrast. I noticed that immediately. I'm looking into getting a bottle of the Reefer Gray, and I may attempt to redo that section. That's why I only did the lower cheeks.

I am happy to try a new mix for the cheeks and dome, but honestly, I'm nervous to do so (this IS an FPH2), but I'm confident in my eye, and although I don't expect to change the game, it is fun to go in a different direction.
 
Thanks, all, for the compliments!

Okay, Rafal, now you and I can get into the nitty gritty.

The gray is not the recommended Reefer Gray, but rather the Lark Dark Gray that is present in some of the paint up color lists. When a darker green is used for the cheeks, the Lark Dark Gray works fine. But since my green is so much lighter, it REALLY makes the gray color have too much of a contrast. I noticed that immediately. I'm looking into getting a bottle of the Reefer Gray, and I may attempt to redo that section. That's why I only did the lower cheeks.

I am happy to try a new mix for the cheeks and dome, but honestly, I'm nervous to do so (this IS an FPH2), but I'm confident in my eye, and although I don't expect to change the game, it is fun to go in a different direction.

Most of the paint names from my stencils (taken from Rogue Studio's paint list) are there just with their names, as I used the C-IV exhibit images to do the color scheme and some of them do not match those colors anymore. I would suggest others to use Terminal Fettler's paint threads (especially the new one, that will cover new colors ==> TF2 ESB Paint Job for Captain Awesome) along with Jayvee's awesome helmet paint-up, both located in the Helmet Consolidation Thread.

I'm looking forward to see how the 'new' gray will work for you!
 
I've tried the custom mix thing before and it can be really tricky.
I'm not saying you are doing poorly at all, but when it comes to paints there are a few members who really set the bar high. I always look at their work and consult them .(you know who you are fellas)
Two things:
The real grey is pretty dark. Even darker than the SP lark dark grey. The weathering and especially the black wash must be used to darken the green up and reduce the contrast.
Who would be interested in a custom green mixed up in airbrush ready bottles ?
This color would be based on extensive study by one of those fine paint wizards and would act as a replacement to the discontinued floquil paint. It would be pretty close to the floquil POG but with more accurate hue.
 
Definitely close enough that you know when it's done it's going to look BAD @$$!
That detail shot by Raf is stellar...like a repro of the Mona Lisa.
 
The semester is over, and I all my papers have been written and submitted, so I finally had some time to get back on my helmet.

Over the weekend, I was able to get the upper cheeks done, but more importantly, most of the dome.

As I've gotten farther along with it, it's making me sick to my stomach to deviate from the 'official' green. I like my mixture very much, but I'm in uncharted territory, and I'm still very nervous. I'm confident that after I'm finished, and the helmet gets a few generous washes, that the green base that I've used will look awfully close to the screen-used helmet. That's the hope, anyways!

I think it's turning out well, so far, but it definitely looks too 'new,' so to speak. There's tons of detail work to do. In particular, I have lots more work to do on the dent. I also had my first 'Oh No!!' moment. After laying down the Lark Dark Gray, I realized that forgot to mask two areas of silver, so I kinda went into panic mode! However, I was able to 'reverse-mask' those areas, and it came out perfect. This taught me two things:
1. Anything on this helmet can be redone/reworked/added to.
2. For a complete and proper paint-up, the technique SHOULD be a healthy mixture of layered AND topical.

Anyways, here's a few low-quality pics under poor lighting lol!
I'm waiting for several paints to come in the mail (it's been a month - argh!) and the next area is, of course, the mandibles. I'm REALLY excited for this part, since that's when Boba Fett becomes Boba Fett, in my opinion. Plus I'm DYING to see how my green contrasts to Jayvee's Humbrol mix.

Thanks for reading.

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