Superjedi's GMH as ESB for Terrantula

I don't want it that bad. If I'm driving for food that far I have some issues. Although I would like to find a sonic somewhere close. I love me some cherry limeade.
How did this thread turn into one about food? Oh, it was me sorry bout that.
 
Why am I so hungry? :lol:

UPDATE: May 23, 2013

First color! Got the back panels masked off and sprayed a couple of light
coats of Floquil Concrete. Here she is unmasked.

IMG_3257_zps6899de3f.jpg


I usually mask everything off just for neatness. At this stage, I could paint the whole
helmet Concrete and it wouldn't really matter. The masking gets more complex with
each new color application.

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The back panels will dry for 24 hours, and when I get home from work tomorrow
I'll begin stenciling and masking for the dark green!
 
Thanks guys! Gettin' ramped up now.

UPDATE: May 25, 2013

Pretty good sized update for today. This contains a lot of work that was done over the last
couple of days. Once the Concrete was dry on the back panels, I began to stencil the
separation between the base color and the dark green. I use Winsor & Newton masking
fluid for this step. This is the only layered area on the helmet. Here are a couple of shots.

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In these pics, the slightly darker shiny areas are the dried masking fluid. Winsor & Newton
is untinted, but I've never had a problem telling where it is, even with a coat of paint over it.

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Once the W & N was dry, I masked off the remainder of the helmet. Once again, this is simply
for neatness. I try to contain my painted areas as much as possible. Good ol' blue painters tape
and some Glad cling wrap makes short work of masking larger areas.

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I have never found an out-of-the-bottle color that I like for the back panels on the ESB.
This is one of the few custom colors that I mix. I start with a 1/2 oz. bottle of Testors
Model Master Acryl Euro I Dark Green, and to that I add approximately 65-75 drops of
Polly Scale BAR Blue. Yes, I count the drops. :lol: I find that this gives the Euro green
just enough of a kick over into the blue-green range to look really nice.

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When I airbrush this custom green, I don't try to get 100% coverage. I begin with a medium
coat that's kind of cloudy. I leave it just a bit translucent. Then using some reference pics
of the helmet, I begin to darken certain areas. This is like "built in" weathering.

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After letting it dry for several hours, I unmask. I use a rubber cement eraser to remove the
masking fluid. It does an amazing job. . . it's like magic!

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I began the detail painting with the left panel. To start with, I go back with some Concrete and a fine
brush and touch up the edges of certain areas. I just study the reference pics and tweak the edges until
I think they look good.
I also take my custom blue-green and a small brush and add in those subtle, darker patches that are
scattered over the back panels. Since the base coat is airbrushed, applying the same color with a brush
gives a denser application, so it appears slightly darker.

I stencil the gray areas the same way that I stencil for the dark green. Then I add the gray, using
Polly Scale SP Lark Dark Gray with a 000 brush.

IMG_3266_zps0b84bd29.jpg


To finish off the panel, I use some Floquil Bright Silver with that same size brush. The physical
scratches have been added in the picture below. I use a compass point and scratch right thru
the paint to the gelcoat.

IMG_3267_zpsaaee0bf9.jpg


Whew!! I think that's enough for today. :lol:
Tomorrow I'll work on the right panel. There's a lot more happening on that panel, with that
enormous silver area, and I usually have to do it in several sittings. Otherwise my eyes catch on fire.
 
So pretty. It really is great watching your paint ups Eric, as because I tend to layer, watching the topical or "layer-optical" (to steal your own word), is a good change and shows just how to get fantastic results with different methods. Splendid work as always my good man! :)
 
Thanks Jonny. :) I need to keep my layered skills sharp to do a ROTJ helmet (at some point.)

UPDATE: May 26, 2013

First stage of the right panel is complete. This is just the blocking in of the silver.
I actually did the small gray areas first, just to have some reference landmarks for when
I go back to do the detailing. The shape of the whole area will become more defined as
I begin to add the rest of the gray, as well as some additional dark green.

IMG_3269_zps1f0fcf98.jpg


My arm fell asleep from doing this part! :lol:
 
Thanks! Welcome to TDH, Moscou. :)

UPDATE: May 27, 2013

Back panels done *whew*
Here are a couple of shots of the right panel. I've added the contrasting color on
the silver damage. In the pics below, you can see that it's very subtle depending
on the viewing angle.

IMG_3273_zps1f1a28ff.jpg


Nearly invisible above. . .

IMG_3274_zps511059f3.jpg


. . . but rotate the helmet slightly, and it becomes visible.

There are several other small areas where this pale color will be applied. The dent will have
some of this color added, as well as the curve of the right mandible, and a couple other
spots here and there.

Next stage will be to mask off the back panels and lay down the base color for the dome
and lower cheeks! It will slowly start to look more like Boba over the next few days. :)

Hey Scott, hope you had a good time at PCC! (y)
 
Looks amazing Eric!!! And yes, I did enjoy PCC quite a bit. Went in my Tusken and had my first troop with my daughter which was a blast!!!

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Thanks again Eric for the amazing paintup, and Asok for the super fast turn around on the GMH!!!!

Terrantula
 
Scott, the "BatMando" turned out great! :) I remember going to the Phoenix Con with Farva and some 501st guys
in 2008, right before I left to go to Korea. I guess it's grown into a pretty big show since then.
Glad you had fun with your daughter!

What color is this pale color you are using to make that contrast in the silver?

Pred, the color I use is one of those acrylic craft paints (Delta, or Ceramcoat. . . don't have it in front
of me right now) called Blue Wisp. It's a very very very pale blue gray.
 
Thanks, F4R.

UPDATE: May 28, 2013

Got the base green down on the dome and cheeks yesterday afternoon and let it dry
overnight. So now I can begin the dome damage. This will be several updates with
lots of silver and gray. :lol:

I don't know why, but I always begin my dome detailing at the back.

IMG_3275_zpsb377bd06.jpg


The silver and gray areas are pretty simple back here, but I get to add a lot of
physical scratches, which is fun!

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I'll continue working around counterclockwise until the dome is done. Once I get all the damage
placed I'll have landmarks to begin the darkening/lightening of the base green. The colors won't
look so stark once I complete that part.
 
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