Stripping an asok helmet to re-do the paint job

Vultana

Hunter
I recently purchased a painted asok CC helmet that I am considering starting over to paint it myself. I am wondering what the pro's here think I should use for chemicals that are safe to use on it that won't "break" it down or ruin it?
Thank you
 
I would just sand the paint areas down as smooth and flat as possible then put a coat of primer on and paint over it. I really don't see a need to use chemicals to strip off the old paint. I have done this with a helmet and you can't notice there are additional layers at all.

btw...
<<<<that red one right there has all the blue Jango colors under it.....I forgot the pic was my avatar.
 
I used very fine sand paper and lots of patience when stripping a FP Premium fiberglass. I would be hesitant to use any chemical stripper without knowing the specific composition of the paint (acrylic, enamel, or a mix thereof) and the base coat. As with everything Fett, patience and doing it correctly over a prolonged period will always yield a better result. Good luck.
 
I'll echo what mullreel said, and say just sand it down. If you want the cold cast to shine again you'll need to repolish it anyway since most paint thinners will ruin the shiny finish of the cc, might as well skip straight to the sanding.
 
Well, like I said, its a BOBA helmet...it can be resilvered over primer...for times sake and ease Id strip the paint off. But just with thinner nothing like aircraft remover
 
Ok, thank you all for your responses. I didn't want to duplicate this post, but the other ones I found asking this were not CC and I would prefer to not ruin the shine :)

-TDH never let's me down.
 
Depending on which version of the helmet you're going to paint, I would suggest sanding, then repainting. I had the same issue, and actually, the subtle layers that you paint over add a bit of "interest" to the overall job when you're done. This is just a personal preference, but from the peeling i experienced, followed by the sanding, the paint looks great from afar and up close (almost like an extra weathering step). I realize that the original didn't have this, but it was a great side effect from a previous mistake!
 
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