thirdEthree
Hunter
Hello Fett Fans!
Its time again to start a work in progress thread based on my latest paint up...
An ESB resin GMH.
Although painting a GMH in an ESB paint scheme can be often debated, it seems that any paint scheme version on a GMH is as close as we can get to having a helmet with real historical lineage. Size and shape are the closest we as consumers can get to a screen used helmet.
I began the process by cutting the neck ring, visor, and key slots. Visor was mounted as well.
In order to get this lid to truly look like an ESB, the pre existing physical damage of the Pre Pro 2 had to be filled in with body filler. I left small areas of textural damage as you can see on the right upper cheek.(The correct ESB physical damage will be added later on in the thread.) I also chose to not alter the actual casting texture of the helmet. I really didn't want to change the small details that were created in the creation of the helmet like small scratches, ripples, waves, etc.
After the body filler was sanded smooth, the entire helmet was sprayed with a layer of Floquil Primer, and then Floquil Bright Silver. In my opinion, the silver is almost too bright for an ESB so i used some 0000 steel wool to dull it down slightly.
Back Panels:
I like to start with the back panels. Being a fairly simple rectangular shape they seem like a good area to jump into the layering process.
as always, Ill be using Rafalfett's stencils for all of the damage pattern placement. the following photos show each individual layer as well as the use of Windsor Newton masking fluid, tinted with some red food coloring in order to make it more visible. My color list is as follows:
Base metal- a custom mix of Floquil primer/Reefer gray/bright silver(2:1:1), Floquil SP Lark dark Gray, Floquil Concrete, and for the last layer, a another custom mix of Model Masters RLM 73/Floquil Reading Green/ Floquil ATSF Blue(4:1:1)
The final layer was lightly misted with Reefer gray.
Back Trim:
I was able to get the layering of the back trim done, as well as revealing the damage from the back panels. topical damage and scratches were added as well using my trusty 10/0 liner brush. Topical details still need to be added to the back trim.
Colors for back trim:
Custom Base Metal used on the back panels, SP Lark Dark Gray, Floquil Tuscan mixed with Floquil Engine Black(4:1) I used this custom mix instead of the widely recommended Polly Scale PRR Maroon. I dont like the idea of mixing types of paint. PRR Maroon is acrylic, which tends to have quite a different finish than most enamels. Due to the plasticizing of the acrylic it appears to give the paint a gloss sheen. Acrylic also seems to spray in heavier coats which can affect the removal of the masking fluid beneath it.
Final layer is Floquil Caboose.
As with my other paint ups, I would love to hear any suggestions you guys may have. Ill be posting further progress soon!!
Its time again to start a work in progress thread based on my latest paint up...
An ESB resin GMH.
Although painting a GMH in an ESB paint scheme can be often debated, it seems that any paint scheme version on a GMH is as close as we can get to having a helmet with real historical lineage. Size and shape are the closest we as consumers can get to a screen used helmet.
I began the process by cutting the neck ring, visor, and key slots. Visor was mounted as well.
In order to get this lid to truly look like an ESB, the pre existing physical damage of the Pre Pro 2 had to be filled in with body filler. I left small areas of textural damage as you can see on the right upper cheek.(The correct ESB physical damage will be added later on in the thread.) I also chose to not alter the actual casting texture of the helmet. I really didn't want to change the small details that were created in the creation of the helmet like small scratches, ripples, waves, etc.
After the body filler was sanded smooth, the entire helmet was sprayed with a layer of Floquil Primer, and then Floquil Bright Silver. In my opinion, the silver is almost too bright for an ESB so i used some 0000 steel wool to dull it down slightly.
Back Panels:
I like to start with the back panels. Being a fairly simple rectangular shape they seem like a good area to jump into the layering process.
as always, Ill be using Rafalfett's stencils for all of the damage pattern placement. the following photos show each individual layer as well as the use of Windsor Newton masking fluid, tinted with some red food coloring in order to make it more visible. My color list is as follows:
Base metal- a custom mix of Floquil primer/Reefer gray/bright silver(2:1:1), Floquil SP Lark dark Gray, Floquil Concrete, and for the last layer, a another custom mix of Model Masters RLM 73/Floquil Reading Green/ Floquil ATSF Blue(4:1:1)
The final layer was lightly misted with Reefer gray.
Back Trim:
I was able to get the layering of the back trim done, as well as revealing the damage from the back panels. topical damage and scratches were added as well using my trusty 10/0 liner brush. Topical details still need to be added to the back trim.
Colors for back trim:
Custom Base Metal used on the back panels, SP Lark Dark Gray, Floquil Tuscan mixed with Floquil Engine Black(4:1) I used this custom mix instead of the widely recommended Polly Scale PRR Maroon. I dont like the idea of mixing types of paint. PRR Maroon is acrylic, which tends to have quite a different finish than most enamels. Due to the plasticizing of the acrylic it appears to give the paint a gloss sheen. Acrylic also seems to spray in heavier coats which can affect the removal of the masking fluid beneath it.
Final layer is Floquil Caboose.
As with my other paint ups, I would love to hear any suggestions you guys may have. Ill be posting further progress soon!!
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