clonecollector
Well-Known Hunter
This must be Sticky'd!
MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)
- Thread starter Necronaut
- Start date
Necronaut
Hunter
Yes, blessed am I to have such an expansive and exhaustive workshop. By the way, this is actually the shop area of the school I teach at.
Thanks for the very kind comments, all of you!
I spent a couple hours there today with a Dremel cutoff wheel and sanding drum, fixing all the errors i made with the fiberglass. The mat lifted at the edges a little when I put the gauntlets into their forms. I sliced away all the curled-up mat and sanded the affected areas back down to resin. I was always planning to lay down 2 sheets of this stuff anyways, though. I'm also going to lay down some fiberglass cloth strip at the edges of the gaunts (where you would put the clasps or piano hinge) for a little extra thickness for screws, should I decide to go that route. No pics, though; it would just be me ejecting massive amounts of fiberglass dust from the Dremel anyways!
Necronaut
Hunter
So, I layed down another layer of fiberglass on the whole insides of the gauntlets yesterday. I used smaller resin batches and cut the mat to size before starting. It went MUCH smoother! And only 1 or 2 small air bubbles too (for want of a fiberglass roller...). So assembly time is fast approaching for me. Just a couple questions I'd like answered before...
1. Some people mention using magnets to clasp the gauntlets shut. I'll assume that you would use rare-earth magnets. Are they the tiny ones some mini-wargamers use on their armies to swap weapons, embedding several in the mating edges of the gauntlet? Or would you use a couple larger ones flush-fitted on the sides of the gauntlets, with matching magnets on the whipcord launcher and the flamethrower to secure it shut? I'm thinking of using piano hinge on one side of the gauntlet, and magnets embedded in whatever way on the other side.
2. I'm on the hunt for some aluminum gauntlet darts. I'm trying to purchase a set I found in the cargo hold, but no response yet. I also tried messaging Mojo, but no response yet. I also found a site called RB Replicas, who do custom machining of parts for SW and other SciFi subjects. They have close to 100 of these in stock (as listed on their website). Again, no response yet. Any suggestions, members?
Thanks for your help, everyone!
1. Some people mention using magnets to clasp the gauntlets shut. I'll assume that you would use rare-earth magnets. Are they the tiny ones some mini-wargamers use on their armies to swap weapons, embedding several in the mating edges of the gauntlet? Or would you use a couple larger ones flush-fitted on the sides of the gauntlets, with matching magnets on the whipcord launcher and the flamethrower to secure it shut? I'm thinking of using piano hinge on one side of the gauntlet, and magnets embedded in whatever way on the other side.
2. I'm on the hunt for some aluminum gauntlet darts. I'm trying to purchase a set I found in the cargo hold, but no response yet. I also tried messaging Mojo, but no response yet. I also found a site called RB Replicas, who do custom machining of parts for SW and other SciFi subjects. They have close to 100 of these in stock (as listed on their website). Again, no response yet. Any suggestions, members?
Thanks for your help, everyone!
Necronaut
Hunter
Finally got some Mojo darts in the works ( cheers, Mojo & recon!). In the meantime, I have layed down a couple layers of fiberglass on the entire insides of the gaunts. I have also put down reinforcement strips of fiberglass at the one edge of the gauntlets. I've decided to use piano hinge along the insides of the gaunts (hence the reinforcement/thickening fiberglass strips), and will use rare-earth magnets to secure the outsides of the gaunts. I thought of using piano hinge on the insides because it's less likely to be seen/noticed, while the outsides of the gaunts remain relatively seam-free.
Watch for updates!
Watch for updates!
Fettered
Hunter
Nice!
You already figured out that smaller batches are better, they also don't kick as quickly. Here is a surfboard maker's tip:
Go ahead and leave a little excess. When your glass work has partially kicked but not yet fully cured you can trim quite nicely with a razor blade. While it works best with fiberglass cloth it can work with mat as well and it saves a lot of dremel work.
You already figured out that smaller batches are better, they also don't kick as quickly. Here is a surfboard maker's tip:
Go ahead and leave a little excess. When your glass work has partially kicked but not yet fully cured you can trim quite nicely with a razor blade. While it works best with fiberglass cloth it can work with mat as well and it saves a lot of dremel work.
Necronaut
Hunter
Thanks for the kind words and advice so far, everyone.
I'm ordering the buttons and switches for the gauntlets right now. The silver Alco-switches for the right gauntlet were easy enough to find and order, but I'm having a little trouble with the LED. The found parts wiki says something about a red indicator lamp on the left gauntlet somewhere. After scouring the ESB gallery here, I can't seem to find where it's supposed to go on the gauntlet. Is it something only on the ROTJ gauntlets? Or is it hidden somewhere that the ESB gallery pics don't reveal?
Seeing as those newly discovered 70's Eveready lamps are hard to find, I'm thinking of just grabbing a push-button switch part from my local Source and modifying the casing to fit into the right gauntlet. I'll probably just use an LED coming out of the front of the gauntlet for the light.
Thanks for the help!
I'm ordering the buttons and switches for the gauntlets right now. The silver Alco-switches for the right gauntlet were easy enough to find and order, but I'm having a little trouble with the LED. The found parts wiki says something about a red indicator lamp on the left gauntlet somewhere. After scouring the ESB gallery here, I can't seem to find where it's supposed to go on the gauntlet. Is it something only on the ROTJ gauntlets? Or is it hidden somewhere that the ESB gallery pics don't reveal?
Seeing as those newly discovered 70's Eveready lamps are hard to find, I'm thinking of just grabbing a push-button switch part from my local Source and modifying the casing to fit into the right gauntlet. I'll probably just use an LED coming out of the front of the gauntlet for the light.
Thanks for the help!
Necronaut
Hunter
Quick update for you...
I saw these at the local dollar store. They are 'precision screwdriver sets' for $2 Cdn each and they come with about 8 tiny bits. It's the barrel/body that caught my eye, though...
I have some of the resin bits from the flamethrower assembly sitting above the screwdriver handles, and there's a pretty close match between the knurling and banding on these handles compared to what comes in the gauntlet kit. They are hollow, and almost the right size to receive the fat tube bits that came with the kit. I'm thinking of throwing these on the drill press and going at them with some emery cloth to refine the shape of the tips, and then cutting them up in a mitre box to size to match and outright replace the resin parts. I think it could make for a much sharper-looking flamethrower.
There doesn't seem to be any consistent layout/size of parts on the many flamethrower bodies that have come out for ESB gauntlets (is there?). I think I have a little artistic license here.
What do you think? All replies welcome!
I saw these at the local dollar store. They are 'precision screwdriver sets' for $2 Cdn each and they come with about 8 tiny bits. It's the barrel/body that caught my eye, though...
I have some of the resin bits from the flamethrower assembly sitting above the screwdriver handles, and there's a pretty close match between the knurling and banding on these handles compared to what comes in the gauntlet kit. They are hollow, and almost the right size to receive the fat tube bits that came with the kit. I'm thinking of throwing these on the drill press and going at them with some emery cloth to refine the shape of the tips, and then cutting them up in a mitre box to size to match and outright replace the resin parts. I think it could make for a much sharper-looking flamethrower.
There doesn't seem to be any consistent layout/size of parts on the many flamethrower bodies that have come out for ESB gauntlets (is there?). I think I have a little artistic license here.
What do you think? All replies welcome!
redkraytdragon
Active Hunter
Awesome score! While I don't know much about this ESB attachment (yet 
) I don't see why you couldn't make those parts work for you.
While I don't know much about this ESB attachment (yet ) I don't see why you couldn't make those parts work for you.
sausagemahoney
Jr Hunter
those look pretty darn close to me. i love the updates on this thread
Necronaut, this is great!
I first jumped into fiberglassing back in October when reinforcing WOF-templated gauntlets and helmet. I had a really tough time getting the stuff to stick into crevices - it seems to contract, or at least flex from the heat, a bit while curing. That makes it pull out of any tight space it's been wedged into, even if totally flush, wetted with resin, and without air bubbles. I decided the parts didn't need full reinforcement - they're just for show - but if you have the same problem and develop any tricks, let me know!
I did find a few tricks, through experimentation or Google searches, to combat the air bubble & mat overhang issues. I dealt with bubbles by "stabbing" at them with the bristles straight-on, like you suggested. That seemed to force the air out, and not just to the space around the bubble, but out through the mat. On relatively flat surfaces, this worked great - so "brushing" sideways is not just bad because it makes a hairy mess, it also tends to pull the mat and create air bubbles (or at least leave those that are already there).
The mat overhang I actually found useful, as it was a real pain if I tried to trim close to the part's actual size and wound up short after the resin went on. Grinding mat with a Dremel, minus resin, isn't exactly ideal, though - it gets wrapped around the shaft and can be a real pain to remove. So I just applied resin at least 1/2" (~1.5cm) past the edge of the part. After curing, I could Dremel the excess off without worrying about fiber strands getting into my tools. Not ideal if you have a part that is thicker at the very edge than in the middle, but if you're reinforcing a part of uniform thickness, it worked well for me.
And on the note of gauntlet darts, Chewiepal came up with some that are really good approximations for those on a budget: http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f25/cheap-darts-gauntlets-ala-chewiepal-20532/
As a beginner myself, I'll be watching this thread big time. Thanks!
I first jumped into fiberglassing back in October when reinforcing WOF-templated gauntlets and helmet. I had a really tough time getting the stuff to stick into crevices - it seems to contract, or at least flex from the heat, a bit while curing. That makes it pull out of any tight space it's been wedged into, even if totally flush, wetted with resin, and without air bubbles. I decided the parts didn't need full reinforcement - they're just for show - but if you have the same problem and develop any tricks, let me know!
I did find a few tricks, through experimentation or Google searches, to combat the air bubble & mat overhang issues. I dealt with bubbles by "stabbing" at them with the bristles straight-on, like you suggested. That seemed to force the air out, and not just to the space around the bubble, but out through the mat. On relatively flat surfaces, this worked great - so "brushing" sideways is not just bad because it makes a hairy mess, it also tends to pull the mat and create air bubbles (or at least leave those that are already there).
The mat overhang I actually found useful, as it was a real pain if I tried to trim close to the part's actual size and wound up short after the resin went on. Grinding mat with a Dremel, minus resin, isn't exactly ideal, though - it gets wrapped around the shaft and can be a real pain to remove. So I just applied resin at least 1/2" (~1.5cm) past the edge of the part. After curing, I could Dremel the excess off without worrying about fiber strands getting into my tools. Not ideal if you have a part that is thicker at the very edge than in the middle, but if you're reinforcing a part of uniform thickness, it worked well for me.
And on the note of gauntlet darts, Chewiepal came up with some that are really good approximations for those on a budget: http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f25/cheap-darts-gauntlets-ala-chewiepal-20532/
As a beginner myself, I'll be watching this thread big time. Thanks!
Necronaut
Hunter
Yeah, I have a feeling it'll be a while before Mojo can get back to knee and gauntlet darts. Sounds like work is taking a lot of his time, and he's in the middle of the GMH aluminum ear run too. Nail rivets will work in a pinch, though. Thanks for the tip!
I actually got a PM about where to find these 'precision screwdriver sets". I got them at Dollarama, a Canadian discount store chain with no online store. With constantly changing stock, it might be tough to find them. I did a quick Google image search and found these, which are kind of close...
USD $ 8.79 - 9-in-1 Portable Precision Screwdriver Set, Free Shipping On All Gadgets!
Precision Screwdriver Set - 9 Pc; Torx, Phillips - Amazon.com
9-in-1 Aluminium Alloy Precision Screwdriver Set
The last link looks like it might be a little short, but it's all about the tips anyways for this part! I think you'd need 4 of these. As for the actual build-up, I couldn't use the drill press in the shop on Sunday (no key to turn on the power to activate the power outlets or heavy machinery in the shop). I'll try again on Saturday or Sunday or over my holiday break.
Soooo.... any idea on where to find the flared tip for the bottom nozzle? I was thinking of using a couple washers epoxied to a pen tip (like the DIY toe spikes).
I actually got a PM about where to find these 'precision screwdriver sets". I got them at Dollarama, a Canadian discount store chain with no online store. With constantly changing stock, it might be tough to find them. I did a quick Google image search and found these, which are kind of close...
USD $ 8.79 - 9-in-1 Portable Precision Screwdriver Set, Free Shipping On All Gadgets!
Precision Screwdriver Set - 9 Pc; Torx, Phillips - Amazon.com
9-in-1 Aluminium Alloy Precision Screwdriver Set
The last link looks like it might be a little short, but it's all about the tips anyways for this part! I think you'd need 4 of these. As for the actual build-up, I couldn't use the drill press in the shop on Sunday (no key to turn on the power to activate the power outlets or heavy machinery in the shop). I'll try again on Saturday or Sunday or over my holiday break.
Soooo.... any idea on where to find the flared tip for the bottom nozzle? I was thinking of using a couple washers epoxied to a pen tip (like the DIY toe spikes).
girlattorney
New Hunter
Wow this is a great thread! I literally just bought a set of MOW ESB Gauntlets so I'll be keeping a close eye on this.
Necronaut
Hunter
I spent a couple hours at the school shop today, and I turned out about 6-odd aluminum pieces from the found screwdriver handles as replacements for the knurled resin fittings on the flamethrower. With the proper tools, this went quite well (and I still have all my fingers and limbs intact). Add some parts from a couple pens from Staples, and this is going to look SICK!! I put down one last layer of woven fiberglass strip along the piano-hinge side of the gauntlets too before I do the clamshell thing with them. Sorry, no pics right now, as I forgot the camera at school and it's -20 C out right now. I'll have a big update for everyone after Christmas.
