GMH cracking in corners of visor

BlackCatBone

Active Hunter
So I've started painting my GMH, and I'm noticing now that the visor area is trimmed and sanded, the corners of the eye slits are showing stress cracks as the mandibles spread apart.

I'm hoping it's just the resin outer layer, and not the fiberglass (I doubt it...), but does anyone have any ideas to reinforce the cracks so they don't get worse?

I'm thinking of adding a layer of JB Weld on the inside, behind the cracks as insurance. But if it's not through the fiberglass, should I just let it be?

Thanks

BCB
 
Yeah. See below. I only noticed this when I sprayed the silver layer (it's so shiny, it shows everything in hyper clarity...). Kinda pissed. I haven't even painted it yet and it cracks.

BCB
GMHcrack.jpg
 
Wow all that from just cutting out the visor. I would recommend re-enforcing the inside with glass and use glazing putty on the external cracks to fill them in.
 
I agree with deadland. Reinforce the inside with a layer of glass and ujse bondo spot glaze putty to fill in the cracks. It should hold up fine, especially if tis is one of the glass GMH helemts to begin with.
 
Structurally speaking, the corners of the visor is the weakest spot on the helmet. You've got to be so careful once it's cut out; no holding it by the mandibles, no putting pressure on top of the dome when it's resting on the mandibles, be very careful wwhen you're sanding to not apply too much pressure, etc. All these things could make the area crack without it even making a sound, it can be so frustrating.

I'd like to offer a few tips for repairing and reinforcing the area. First cut a 4-5" long by 1.5" wide strip of fiberglass cloth. Coat it with resin on a sheet of cardboard, then roll it tightly (you should be wearing some gloves for this part, or any fiberglass work you do) so that it's a four inch long fiberglass joint. Then lay it in around the corner of the visor, following the edges on the inside of the helmet. You'll have to press it in to get it to lay as flat as possible. Once that cures that should provide all sorts of extra support for the area, but if you feel it still needs more support, feel free to roll another strip and place it around the previous strip. Then repeat the process for the other side. As for filling the cracks on the outside, i would recommend starting with some thin CA glue, then apply some gentle pressure to the mandible, just enough to get the cracks to open a little bit, squeeze some glue into the cracks and release the pressure on the mandible. wait for it to dry then sand it down, add body filler as needed.

more than likely it's just the resin layer that's cracked and the fiberglass is fine. i did something like that with my jango cold cast neck plate the first time i suited up, but it was just cracked through the cc layer and the 'glass was just fine. i polished it up and weathered it a bit and now no one can even tell.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Install a temporary visor while you paint it, then replace that with a real one when finished.
It will save you a lot of heartache later.
 
Maybe ask the maker about it who may offer some tips. At the end of the day, a decent crack should only really happen if you drop it or really mistreat it. While ypu always want to take care, all the helmets ive seen are still pretty resiliant..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Install a temporary visor while you paint it, then replace that with a real one when finished.
It will save you a lot of heartache later.

I do THIS everytime I paint BUT i just use the visor I plan to use covered in painters tape! NEVER paint a helmet without a visor installed...BAD idea because of this EXACT issue the OP is having.
 
It depends if you can see the crack on the inside of the helmet , Id take a guess that it is just in the gelcoat layer, (its a fiberglass helmet?) best way to fix this would be (Provided it is only a surface crack) use a file and gouge out the cracks through the gel coat layer youl see the gel coat is most likly white and the laminate layers yellowy colour, , so gouge out the cracks and remove any gel coat if it is loose, then fill it up using an 2 part epoxy resin let it set then sand smooth and you may need to refill and resand,
If the crack goes through you will want to add some glassing to the interior give the area you plan to glass a good sand with coarse grade paper, like 150 or 180, youl need to do this as one fiber glass has set it tends not to bond well when recoated with resin again, so the sanding will create a key for the resin to hold, paint on a coat of laminate resin on let go tacky, then brush another coat on, lay some glass cloth down (youd be best of getting some chopped strand matting as apossed to the fiberglass tape and tearing a few strips of it out prior to starting) once youve brushed the resin down, lay the glass matting down and brush some more resin on to it , you may want to do a couple of layers of matting , once it has set to a firm state sand down to smooth it upthen add another layer or 2 of laminate resin

And like every one else said its good to keep a visor in whilst painting
 
This thread is more than 11 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top