Newbie Boba Bucket

dechels

Jr Hunter
I'm a newbie at all this and taking my 1st stab at painting (other than walls my wife makes me paint) an ESB bucket. I got this off ebay for $20 a few months back and have been researching Raf's Template's and different rattlecan colors. This may take me a bit as I travel a fair bit for work, but with all your help, tips and continued support, I'm sure it'll turn out to be something I'm proud of. Without further ado...

Here's what I'm starting with... I think it's a DP96. When I did some sanding on it, there is some putty over the lettering on the back and the "plastic" is green under all the primer.

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As you can see, someone already cut out the visor and it was very rough! I cleaned it up with the dremel and some sandpaper.
The primer coat looks abit dark to me for the base metal color on Raf's templates so I sanded this re-primed and shot a coat of Rustoleum Stainless Steel Enamel. I used this on my goalie helmet, so I know it sticks well!

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It's kind of a dull metallic finish and not the bright silver I will use later. Any thoughts on this as a base color? I plan to use the liquid frigett that Dynamic recommended for liquid mask. I'm thinking I pick up some carbon paper for stenciling tomorrow morning, lay the mask and throw on a coat of bright aluminum. Any thoughts are welcome and appreciated.
I'm thinking the order of paint will be 1. Stainless Steel 2. Bright Metallic Aluminum 3. Concrete (Rustoleum Granite) 4. Reffer Grey (Rustoleum Dark Grey)
Then I'll move around the helmet for the different colors. Thanks for the help!
 
Of to a good start, not a bad shape for a DonPost, , just a warning though those green vynil helmets have a tendancy react when painted with enamels,
Though some times it doesnt seem to happen, (I personally have never done one )but ive seen people on here mention the paint stays tacky,
but you may be lucky and not have this problem ,
any way looking good so far,
 
I've repainted my don post 95 multiple times with enamel spray paint and haven't had the paint go tacky once :) so you should be fine
And the first coat of silver always makes the helmet look awesome :)
 
Luckily it hasn't gotten tacky yet but thanks for the heads up.

Your right, one coat and some sanding and I feel like I'm going somewhere... Yet those templates are a little intimidating!
 
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It looks good so far! Before you start painting this baby, if you trive for accuracy you should consider adding the physical damage to the helmet:

ESB Physical Damage2.jpg

...if not, disregard what I said:

Each stencil has two fromats for you: a PDF and some JPG (in compressed format) files. The JPG is there if you need to alter or resize the stencils to your needs, so if you have an image editing program and some skills, you won't have too much trouble to fit the stencils to your helmet. The most important thing with these is PATIENCE (lot of patience) and the result will be according to this: if you do the paint job in a hurry, the helmet will look ugly; but if you will do it with patience and in a logical manner, the result will be an awesome helmet. Whatever questions you have, don't hesitate to ask. We're here to help.

Good luck! Can't wait to see your next updates.
 
Raf, Thanks for the info on the physical damage. Do I just add some dents and scratches? I can clearly see the nick under the right eye. I am assuming a small dent in front of the left ear and a nick at the left nose. What is on the right cheek?

Where can I find your jpg files? I only have the pdf's.

Thanks!
 
Here is another image with added hi-rez areas of the physical damages:

ESB Physical Damage3.jpg

The damage in the right cheek is a long crack which you might add it as a physical damage or do it with paint later.

As for the JPG images for the ESB stencils (but I added these for all the helmet and armor versions too) you will find it here ==> Boba Fett ESB Helmet Stencils where each file is compressed in ZIP format (ex: ESB Red Face & Keyhole.zip).
 
Raf- you rock bud! I appreciate the blow up of the damage and the info on the zip files. I'll get these downloaded and the damage added today.
 
Part of the reason my bucket was $20, was that it had a broken stalk and no rangefinder. After looking around a bit I decided on Asok's aluminum stalk and 3 piece RF. I received them in the mail today along with Salamander Kings RF contained light kit! What great day at the mailbox! Not to put the cart before the horse, but now I'm gonna have to get the servo as well. I also picked up some graphite (carbon) paper to help transfer the templates to the lid. Hopefully I'll have some progress pics tomorrow.
 
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Today I masked the bucket and will lay the silver tomorrow. Yesterday I was fixated on the RF and stalk. I think I'm done with it except for soldering in the battery. Here's the pics.

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Sorry bout the multiple post, I'm learning about the pic posts...

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Then I masked and laid the black and attached it to the stalk. Getting the nuts on this baby was a pain! I set the lights in and popped the lens in and here we are. I'll pick up a battery tomorrow and get this baby working!





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Does anyone know if I need this little "rail" or "notch" in the ear? I plan on putting a servo in so not sure if I need this or not. I was going to sand this out, but before I do, thought I would ask.

IMG_0475.JPG

Thanks!
 
Raf- Thanks for the detailed pics!

I got the bright silver laid over the weekend and then masked so I could lay the reefer grey this morning, which I just laid. I can't wait to pull the masking off! Going to mask the reefer grey at lunch then start masking areas for different colors. Gotta make a run to Grainger to pic up a welding visor and some chicago screws to hold it in there. Starting to look ahead to the next item and thinking I might attempt a scratch build jet pack. I'll post some more pics this afternoon.
 
I may have made a mistake last night... In my haste, I removed the masking from the dome to see my progress and then masked it and the cheeks off to shoot the black this morning. I am very concerned that the "Frog" tape is going to pull some of the weathering off. I think I should have laid a clear coat before masking to prevent this, but too late now... :( Anyone have any experience or thoughts on laying clear coat to help with this?

photo 1 (2).jpgphoto 2.jpgphoto 3.jpg

I think the glare in the 1st picture makes the dent look bigger than it actually is. So far, I'm pleased with this... I think...
 
Hey Rafal,

Could you add this image to your ESB Helmet Templates thread?

That way I (and I'm sure others) can see all the ESB Helmet details in one place? Thanks!

Here is another image with added hi-rez areas of the physical damages:

View attachment 60872

The damage in the right cheek is a long crack which you might add it as a physical damage or do it with paint later.

As for the JPG images for the ESB stencils (but I added these for all the helmet and armor versions too) you will find it here ==> Boba Fett ESB Helmet Stencils where each file is compressed in ZIP format (ex: ESB Red Face & Keyhole.zip).
 
Sometimes that happens if the paint hasn't finished curing yet. It may be dry to the touch but not fully cured. The label will say how long it takes. I've made that mistake before so I usually give it a full day to dry/ cure before I paint over the next layer. Another trick I use is to take the painters tape and press it against my jeans so that some of the tackiness is removed. You have just enough to mount to the surface of the helmet without taking of excess paint.

Another trick I use when I'm doing gentle curves like the horizontal kill stripes is to use white electrical tape. The white tape doesn't leave behind black residue like black electrical tape. The tape flexes so you can get some nice lines. Remember to press it against your jeans to remove the excess tackiness!

I hope this helps a bit!

I may have made a mistake last night... In my haste, I removed the masking from the dome to see my progress and then masked it and the cheeks off to shoot the black this morning. I am very concerned that the "Frog" tape is going to pull some of the weathering off. I think I should have laid a clear coat before masking to prevent this, but too late now... :( Anyone have any experience or thoughts on laying clear coat to help with this?

View attachment 61118View attachment 61119View attachment 61120

I think the glare in the 1st picture makes the dent look bigger than it actually is. So far, I'm pleased with this... I think...
 
Clone- Thanks for the tip! I really like the white electrical tape idea. You are probably on the money with the cure time. All the other layers, I waited 24-48 hours. However, I got excited to see the progress and probably only waited 12-14 hours... I guess I'll how bad the damage is in a few days...
In the wise words of Rafal "The most important thing with these is PATIENCE (lot of patience) and the result will be according to this: if you do the paint job in a hurry, the helmet will look ugly; but if you will do it with patience and in a logical manner, the result will be an awesome helmet." Well spoken...
 
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I laid the red today and am going to let it cure for a day or 2... I'm really stuck on the rattlecan color for the back plates. Any thoughts? I think I'm going to run with the Navy and mist over it with Hunt Club Green from Lowe's.

photo.JPG
 
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