*UPDATE-COMPLETE 5/3/12:Jayvee's deluxe ESB paint up (with an awesome BGHunter lid..)

G'day Boba-Brothers! Just a fairly small update (but an update nonetheless :p) on the completion of the rangefinder ear. I still have the obvious weathering and brown splatters to add, as well as the rub on letter decals - I will do all of this weathering after all the paint work has been completed for continuity (and so I clumsily dont rub any letters off etc...). This ear was fairly straightforward, but had some super fine detail that was challenging in parts. Have a stalk and topper on the way, so that will be added in down the track of course. The other thing which was time consuming, but completely worth it, was masking and painting out the black and white arches, and also the 9 black strips on the silver panel. May be more time consuming than basic decals, but leaves you with a far better end result, and you can adjust to the correct size and shape which isnt always possible with a standardized decal. Anyhoo, on to the pics - dome and cheeks to come next (might take this old man some time tho.. :D)

Rangefinder ear colour list : Humbrol light grey 147 (basecoat), Humbrol silver (11), Humbrol dark grey (79), Humbrol sand (94). Arches masked, then sprayed with Humbrol Satin Black (85), white half arch Humbrol white (34). 9 Stripes also black (85), but as they were fine, I masked and used a fine brush for these. Splatters will be added with Humbrol leather brown (62)


. rfear1.jpgrfear2.jpgrfear3.jpgrfear4.jpg

rfear3.jpg


rfear1.jpg


rfear2.jpg


rfear4.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
new user, been on for about a week straight eating this stuff up. I have no tools or armor, but I'm just reading before I start anything. I wanna know what I'm getting myself into before I knuckle down and buy all these tools, lol. Still, for a guy who's never done professional painting outside of scrawling on the walls with crayon when I was a child, I have to say I've learned a bunch. I'd never even heard of liquid masking fluid until this thread. It's hard to just imagine though, doing the base coat after primer and working up from that by covering it and doing more. LOL I'm dyslexic or something, I want to paint the green first, then do the detail work after, but that doesn't work haha, but from what I've seen in this thread the liquid mask works as a stencil that you can peel off after you do another coat, and then another and another, until you've painted a multi layer coat of godliness on your bucket. Thanks everybody who's posted here, you guys are amazing. I only hope when I get down to it my bucket will look as good as yours do, fellas. (y):
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Welcome to the boards buddy! It can certainly be a daunting task to undertake one of these helmet paint ups, and bear in mind you can do it whatever way you prefer. The method I am doing on this helmet is whats called a layered method, which is exactly like you describe, working from the base colour up, but there are some gun painters on this board who prefer the 'topical' method, which is indeed putting down the main colours, then adding the damage over the top. both have advantages and disadvantages - for instance, many believe you can get finer detail with topical methods, whereas layered methods seem up close to appear more authentic. personally, I feel there are so many awesome examples of either method, and when done well, it really is hard to notice the difference, so you have to go with what you are more comfortable with. Any questions, feel free to ask, and good luck! Peace :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Welcome to the boards buddy! It can certainly be a daunting task to undertake one of these helmet paint ups, and bear in mind you can do it whatever way you prefer. The method I am doing on this helmet is whats called a layered method, which is exactly like you describe, working from the base colour up, but there are some gun painters on this board who prefer the 'topical' method, which is indeed putting down the main colours, then adding the damage over the top. both have advantages and disadvantages - for instance, many believe you can get finer detail with topical methods, whereas layered methods seem up close to appear more authentic. personally, I feel there are so many awesome examples of either method, and when done well, it really is hard to notice the difference, so you have to go with what you are more comfortable with. Any questions, feel free to ask, and good luck! Peace :)

Well since I got that, my last question, (<--- lie) do you coat it with a finish or, hm, what's the term, like a coat of clear enamel or something that evens everything out?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Welcome to the boards buddy! It can certainly be a daunting task to undertake one of these helmet paint ups, and bear in mind you can do it whatever way you prefer. The method I am doing on this helmet is whats called a layered method, which is exactly like you describe, working from the base colour up, but there are some gun painters on this board who prefer the 'topical' method, which is indeed putting down the main colours, then adding the damage over the top. both have advantages and disadvantages - for instance, many believe you can get finer detail with topical methods, whereas layered methods seem up close to appear more authentic. personally, I feel there are so many awesome examples of either method, and when done well, it really is hard to notice the difference, so you have to go with what you are more comfortable with. Any questions, feel free to ask, and good luck! Peace :)

Well since I got that, my last question, (<--- lie) do you coat it with a finish or, hm, what's the term, like a coat of clear enamel or something that evens everything out?


ARGH How do I delete multiple posts!? >.<
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well since I got that, my last question, (<--- lie) do you coat it with a finish or, hm, what's the term, like a coat of clear enamel or something that evens everything out?


ARGH How do I delete multiple posts!? >.<

Well, just delete the content of the second post and simply type in: double post. It won't delete the actual post, but at least the content will not be duplicated.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
haha, darn double posts! Yea, you can definately put a clear coat on after completion, but again, that can come down to preference, what type of paint used etc. On my first helmet paint up, I used Testors Dullcote - very nice for blending it all together, but it also will dull metallics such as your silver. The finish generally comes down to the weathering, and if I feel the need to spray it clear at the end, I may take Terminal Fettlers example, and go with a very light satin finish - not to shiny, not too flat. I'm gonna see tho how it goes once completed - this will be more a display for me, and I wont be trooping in it, so it may not need the extra sealing. But by all means, it can definately be a good idea, more just dependant on what you are going to use the helmet for. Peace :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
G’day Fett-aholics! Another update on this thread, this time the dome and cheeks. Now, first up, I know I’ve been taking my sweet a$$ time, and I know only one cheek is done (just due to a minor paint issue), but bear with me, I’m another year older.. :wacko

DOME & CHEEKS
Really enjoying the dome and cheeks, as you can actually see light at the end of the tunnel. Worked quite hard at recreating the dent down to the fine details like scorch marks etc, and happy with how it came out, as well as the killstripes. Airbrushing these lids really gives a great finish, and in person, it is as clean as a whistle. One thing to keep in mind, is that I am recreating the ESB paint up as it appears in the movie. I mention this, as there are quite a few less scratches and damage spots compared to the lid in its current day form with the extra dings from mishandling etc... Also, the lighting on these pics isn’t perfect, and with shade and so forth, the green seems almost a different shade in every pic – The Humbrol green 78 in person though, is a perfect colour in my opinion. The last thing I will do after all the paintwork is completed, is more weathering with some sand colour around the trim, and some dirt marks etc...

Colour list: Light Grey Base coat 147, Silver 11, Grey 79, Green 78. Killstripes : Yellow 154; fade orange 82 in towards middle and last killstripes. Weathering with sand brown 93 as well as various greys around dent.

1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg5.jpg4.jpg

1.jpg


2.jpg


3.jpg


5.jpg


4.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just a few more pics to highlight some details. I’ve shown the dent from a couple of angles so you can actually see the light grey accents, or scorch marks depending on the angle and how much light is shining off. Again, a bit more weathering to do, and rubbing out of some pencil marks etc, but almost ready to move on to the next section. Might be a while, but i'll get there :). Any feedback or questions most welcome peeps! Peace :)

F.jpgG.jpgH.jpgI.jpg

F.jpg


G.jpg


H.jpg


I.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Your dome paint is awesome, especially that you used the new stencils for the dent and the killstripe area. It looks killer and I love it!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks fellas,appreciate the kind words once again. Yea Raf, the dent was down to two things - really studying the reference pics to get little details and areas spot on; and of course your awesome stencils which are simply a godsend. In any case, really appreciate the feedback, and glad you think i've done your brilliant stencils some form of justice so far Raf! Peace :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Great work Jayvee keep up the great work. The best part about working on these is when you start seeing Fett shine through and knowing you are almost there!!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Definately Deadland, it certainly helps to see some light at the end of the tunnel. Of course, the mandibles are still a very big part, and will be super time consuming, but one thing I have learnt well after a couple helmet paint ups, is that even if it takes longer, the more pedantic you are, the better the end result. Thanks again! :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Morning Kiddies! Smallish update here, but have completed the other lower cheek, and both upper cheeks, ready to tackle the mandibles..

UPPER CHEEKS (and finishing of other Lower Cheek)
This was a nice little section to do, and went fairly smoothly. The biggest thing for me from an accuracy point of view, was the damage on the lower cheek (on the non-rangefinder side). I have put a close up pic of this cheek in picture 3. There is actually a differrent colour of damage that interacts with the normal grey damage on the far side. Many people leave out this minor detail, but it definately is present in inspection of the reference pictures. My main question was what colour to go for. I know Terminal Fettler always adds in this detail, and recommends in his brilliant tutorial, to go the same colour as the back panels, but to my eyes, the colour should be darker than the grey. Now, don't take this as gospel, as I have ageing eyes, but i went for the back panel blue/green like Garrett reccommends, but added in drops of black until I was content, creating an almost deep olive colour. In the end, it came out just as I wanted, or at least close enough to tell from my eyes. There was also some grey misting at the bottom of each lower cheek (heavier on the non rangefinder ear side as per the ref pics). Lastly, the upper cheeks were pretty straightforward, but there is also a fair bit less damage wise in my ESB movie version in comparison to the more recent AOSW version. Enjoy gang, as always, feedback or questions most welcome. Peace :)

Colour list : Humbrol Light Grey 147 (basecoat), silver 11, grey 79. Upper cheeks then layered with black 33. Lower Cheek has green 76+96 (1:1 ratio) with added black drops to darken until satisfied. Cheek then has green 78, with a light misting on bottom of cheeks with grey 27.

1a.jpg1b.jpg1c.jpg

1a.jpg


1b.jpg


1c.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This thread is more than 9 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top