Krylon clear satin finish

D

Devilstar2k2

Active Hunter
Has anyone tried using this to get both paints on the Jango bucket to have the same finish? I know that the clear matte by Krylon is no good for this, because it seems to suck the greenish tones right out of the Rustoleum royal blue (at least I see greenish tones, but the color does change when it gets matted). I know this, because thats how I got the blue on my Boba jetpack.

I'm guessing that the satin finish would have just a bit more luster than the matte finish? Or is it the same stuff in a different can? The matte coat has pics of artists paintbrushes on the can and is noted for sealing charcoal sketches and such. Whereas the satin finish can be found with the regular spray paint.

Anyone? Or am I going to have to be the guinea pig?
 
i don't normally seal the paints on my jango builds, but a trick i used to use on miniature figures (and on a boba helmet i painted for a friends kid) is to blast it with aquanet hairspray. just like any other paint you have to be careful not to touch it until it's fully dry. it gives an even finish initially, and over time it really gets a good lived in look to your piece. give it a practice run on something else before you try it on a helmet and see if you like it.
 
This is a nother reason i dont think these paints are right ,
And i persoaly think jango is more semi gloss finish,
but i used the satin on my ROTJ before i got the testor dull coat and it wasnt bad ,
And it goes ,aHigh gloss, full gloss , gloss , semi gloss, satin, low sheen , matt, flat, this is the order of sheen levels
how ever difrent brands take libertys,
 
So the satin didn't change the color much? Jinto, I saw that thread about about your paints... I'm gonna look it up again this morning when I get back from dropping my son at school, and going to the hardware store. Maybe I can send a few bucks via Paypal for some paint? I need to look over it again first though.

I'm not really a fan of dull cote. Mostly because of the price vs. quality. Its only a hair duller than the matte, but you get 3 times as much matte for less money than a tiny can of dull cote. I did notice that dull cote also changes colors quite a bit. To me, it makes them seem much lighter.
 
I use Krylon matte coat on a lot of pieces because it gives it just a bit of luster but still looks less shiny than satin. I haven't noticed it changing the color, but I haven't used it on the Jango colors. Honestly I would say that the acrylic weathering/wash on my Jango bucket evened things out nicely. I don't notice the sheen difference as much after the weathering.
 
I dunno... Maybe it's just me... Do these look the same to you guys? I see a slight green tone in it before it gets the matte. I think the gloss deepens the color. These might not be the best examples since the JP has black misting, but its the best that I can do at the moment.

Rustoleum royal blue + black misting + matte

4594836395_5f15b3504d_b.gif


------------------------------

Just royal blue with no top coat:

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So the JP has the satin , does the fett helmet ,?
It makes i huge difrents to the over all colurs ,
but i still think jango should be at least semi gloss
and i also think there is some green on the Jango dark blue
 
There will always be a debate about what colors people see when they see Jango... the color of the flightsuit varies with lighting, same with the helmet, vest, etc...

The two colors Seeker suggested a long time ago are your best bet for the helmet colors... I have had mine change colors with different pictures and different lighting too; same with the glossiness of the finish

If you look at the reference picture here: http://images.wikia.com/starwars/images/0/07/Jango-CHRON.jpg
You'll notice the helmet dark blue has a green hue to it, as does the charcoal grey vest... this is due to the lighting... if you look at the reflected light off of the helmet, you can clearly see an ambient white/blue main light with a yellow-ish accent light to the right of it... This would definetly cause a green hue on a blue-ish surface.

I am not trying to say anyone is wrong, heck, the colors are all interpreted anyways... I say whatever you are comfortable with is good and no one will most likely ever be able to tell a difference, a normal person at any rate ;)
 
No top coat on mine...I rarely see the need to coat many things...I let my paint wear normally and cover any damage with weathering. Now with Jango I expect to repaint a few times.
 
Lightly knock down the glossy finishes of both paints as well as smooth out the mandible paint line with 0000 steel wool and then rebuff with auto polish. Make sure both colors have had plenty of time to thoroughly dry before using the auto polish. I like to use NuFinish(orange bottle). Oh, and can you please keep your "Boba" techniques to the Boba forums. :p ;)
 
lol. Actually, after just thinking about your question for a while as I cleaned my garage...I would knock down the different glossy coats with the 0000 steel wool and then tape of both blue areas and shoot them all at once with the satin finish. That could possibly be the ideal way to seal both blues and keep the sheen consistent when using rattle cans.(y)
 
I still think the auto polish gives both blues a great sheen, but it would be interesting to see your results. You could probably keep the tape on the silver areas on after spraying the blues to save time. I would just make sure you blow off and brush off the helmet well after the steel wool of you might end up with small pieces of wool in your paint surface. Maybe something can be learned from your Boba techniques. ;)
 
I'd use my airbrush and wash it down with water shooting through it, then dry it off using the brush and go over it with a micro-cloth for cleaning glasses.
 
I usually do this stuff at my xo's place, but he's been sick. He has every/any tool you could ever need (including a nice air compressor). Me? I live in an apartment. I have a dremel, a hammer, and a couple of screwdrivers... oh, and duct tape...
 
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