How "Accurate" is Wizardofflight's helmet template?

Dash Merc

New Hunter
I'm looking to start building and upgrading a Boba Fett costume, and now that I'm considered a grown adult and I have some modicum of disposable income, I am finally able to graduate past wishing and into the realm of serious planning and doing.

Since my budget is thin, however, I will be starting by scratchbuilding as much as I can from sintra/foam/whatever I can get my hands on for cheap.

I'm interested in knowing how accurate Wizardofflight's helmet template is to the screen helmet. If I remember correctly from when I read it oh so long ago, he modeled his measurements off a Don Post (I'm probably way off with this one)? The armour templates will do fine, because with a little creativity they can be shaped properly to at least closely resemble the screen-used armour. I'm wondering what level of modification to the plans will be necessary to get Wizardofflight's templates to come out with a shape close to that of the screen helmet, if any.

Thank you.

Best Regards,

Dash - Longtime lurker, second-time poster
 
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I have made a few using the wof templates dont think there from the don posts could be rong but prety sure on that the truth is that until the GMH comes out we realy dont have an acurate helmet to judge the comparisons by but that being said with the templates you can make a very resonable helmet the main part that will make or brack it is the domein my opinion dont use the templates for the dome rather go for the batting or skate board helmet option and cut in to quaters and and refix them in a more acurate form
 
Ok, so basically the dome is too round, and using the batting helmet cut in quarters and put back together with bondo is the best way to take this?

More expensive than I was hoping (I shouldn't complain, it's only $12, and the paint was going to be a decent investment anyway), but still cheaper than buying a GMH. :p

I think the GMH will be my first upgrade, when I can afford it. That is one of the most beautiful man-made things I have ever seen.

It may be worth noting, but I'm going for ROTJ with my costume design scheme. Are there any notable differences in the helmet shape? I know about the rangefinder differences and the paint differences...but anything else I ought to know about? I've read through so much material that any such details have gotten lost in the huge tangle of information I'm now holding in my short-term memory.

The one thing that gets me about the ROTJ is the helmet colours. I like the helmet colours from ESB best (mostly the yellow kill stripes, the scratch/weathering details on the ROTJ are nicer), but the armour detail and the mandalorian insignias from ROTJ are more pleasing, IMO.
 
If you prefer ESB helmet and the ROTJarmour you can go for the ROTJ special edition witch is that combo when lucas revampt the flix with digital format they added extra boba sense were he is wearing that combo most people go for that style for there first boba.
 
There's a lot to this... First of all, I didn't find the dome "too round" at all. It matches my batting helmet exactly. I know his first dome template was too round, but not the current one.

On to the main factors... Boba's helmet is asymmetrical. The WOF templates are not. The WOF templates are slightly off in various places, dimension-wise, most notably on the sides of the helmet and the right earcap. The bottom edge of the WOF helmet made from the templates has a straight, flat edge. The original will have an angle just at the back of the cheek insets, so when it's sittin gon the back edge and the tips of the mandibles, the sides will be a little above the tabletop. And the left side is shorter than the right.

Boba's right earcap is slightly wider than the left, but not as much as it is in the templates.

I've gotten measurements from Boba helmets that can be traced back to the Pre-Pro 2 helmet plug, as well as Jango helmets of similar provenance (can be traced back to LFL prop, not that they're from Boba helmet moulds *heh*). The templates need to be scaled down slightly to about 98 percent of their normal print size to be Boba accurate, and then down to 99 percent-ish of that to be Jango-accurate. Then I went over the templates, using the top edge of the brow band as primary referent, and marked where everything was supposed to be, according to those measurements off the screen-accurate helmets. I'll admit, I'm more interested in idealized than in screen-accuracy, so I've rounded here and there and my version is symmetrical. ;)

Alan (WOF) knows his helmet templates needed tweaking, and has been working on refining them, partly with the input I've been describing here. However, real life has been keeping him from making rapid progress.

So yeah, while they're not 100% screen-accurate, they're a good starting place to make your own helmet from, especially if you have the time, knowledge, and inclination to correct them. I enjoy doing things like that, so it was more of an engrossing puzzle than an irritant. :)

--Jonah
 
Yeah what he said, For your first helmet your not going to get it acurate its just a fact ive made 7 using the templates as a kick of point 3 of witch in the last 4 weeks 2 of those in the last week and im only just getting there DSC03853.JPGI know this is getting off the topic but im trying to demonstraigt, each hlemet i make i think thiis time ive got it then i think ill tweek it here and there , we do this for fun
 
Awesome, you guys are so helpful. Thank you. I'm definitely into the idea of making revisions, so knowing where these revisions ought to be made is very helpful, thank you.

My first will probably be just straight from the printed template, and as my experience with paper models has taught me, no two builds will ever be the same, and every one will need its own unique kinds of tweaking.

Looks like I'd better be ready for a lifelong obsession. :D

@peregrinus - Thank you for all the specifics. Do you have a link to an original discussion of these subtle measurements, or perhaps photos, or perhaps both? I'll still look forward to when WoF's modified templates are released, but I'm not going to wait to get started.

@jinto - You mention Boba wearing the ESB helmet with the ROTJ armour; is that in the DVD re-release of Star Wars? I still haven't acquired it because I'm still kinda pissed about them dubbing the original voice with Temuera Morrison's (not that Jango isn't cool -- and Temuera Morrison's a cool guy, I've nothing against him). But it looks like I'll need to be getting it now, just for kicks. And reference. I might have to play it muted, though, to keep me from freaking out and throwing things at the TV. :p

While that mixing of helmet and outfit is unofficial, is it considered acceptable due to its appearance in sanctioned film? Would I be able to get my outfit approved by the local 501st, or would I need to pick one or the other (or just make both separately)?

And thank you for the photo, it gives me some idea of where I should be going with this. 7 in the last month or so...dayum. Looks like I'll be busy if I keep up to your pace. :p

A question on choice of materials...I know everyone keeps talking about Sintra brand styrene sheet, I wanted to know if these* are acceptable stand-ins, because Sintra is expensive (where I've found it online) and most of the for sale signs I've seen now are in kits with stickers for $6+ each for just one sign, and are made of laminated cardboard half the time.

*Westward Plastics (UK) 23.5in x 48in (1128 square) @ $6 US for 1mm thick, $12 US for 2mm thick
*US Plastic Corp 40in x 72in (2880 square) @ $13 US for 1mm thick, $19 for 1.5mm thick, $36 for 2mm thick

US Plastic is cheaper for more at 1mm, but more expensive for 2mm. They're both different materials, I think; US Plastic is Styrene, Westward Plastics is "Foam PVC." Or are those the same thing? Will they mould and hold shape as well as Sintra brand?

I'll be doing my whole first-run outfit out of the same materials, for the most part, and I'll be making any electronics completely from scratch on my own. I'm not making any promises, but once I finish pulling together my board fabrication shop in the basement, I might start offering chest light kits. I know of fettronics, and the other sold by tk409.com, but I like to make things myself -- both to save money, and for the DIY satisfaction. :p

And I know this probably isn't the right place for this question, but I'm not sure where best to ask it:

I've seen rub'n'buff do some amazing things to sintra, bringing a jango-like metallic sheen to simple, lowly styrene. If I rub'n'buff-ed my helmet, then painted over it, would the battle-damage/weathering/scrapes-and-scuffs look metallic and awesome? And would the paint even stick properly? Or would that not work in the first place?
 
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Dont try painting over rub n buff its a waxed bassed polish so it wont take paint, I need batris for my cam once i get them ill put up a pisc of the plasitic paint pots i use there goog coz they come pre curved, and i havent made 7 in a month that would be crazy i made 3, 2 of witch were from a mould of my most recent build and then remodified them as you can see in the pic
 
No the helmet i used to make the molds was made using 10 and 4 litter paint pots plus i used the dome and the back section not the key wholes from a hasbro voice changer helmet with magor moificatins to the dent and filled the join and changed the shape a bit see my thred,titled Hasbro BF mod (UPDATES) ididnt take photos of the build but this shows how i joind it upDSC03675.JPGi hope that makes sense
pencil.png
 
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I read the thread here. Holy sith. What work. You scrapped about 1/2 of that helmet, and not only rebuilt the majority of it, but detailed it to exacting specifications. And paid way more than it was worth. $95 AUD is about $93 USD. Ouch.

The detail on it looks great.

So what's a "plastic paint bucket," and what parts of the helmet are made from them?
 
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Interjecting to follow up on my end. I don't have much time tonight, but I'll shoot you a PM -- or you can e-mail me -- and I'll get into excruciating detail. *chuckle*

I used 1mm sintra for the chek pieces, back skirt, dome, and angled parts of the earcaps... and 3mm sintra for the thicker parts -- the brow band and visor frame and the earcap bases. I'm using somethign cheap like sintra to iron out bugs in my version of th etemplates, and I'm using those thicknesses to stand in for the 18-gauge and 10-gauge stainless steel I'm going to be using for the actual builds (admittedly with differences, like raised domes instead of the bent strips of the template). And before anyone tells me it's going to be beastly heavy -- not for me. It'll be about the same weight as the Crusade-era great helm I'm used to wearing.

In the meantime, here're a couple pics of my first field test of the templates, prior to further revisions I'm making:

SDC13926.jpg

My reduced and modified templates (photocopies, not originals). The lower one is just for the back half of the brow band. I have the join between the front half and back half hidden under the earcaps.

SDC13906.jpg

The back skirt, already marked on the 1mm sintra. You can see how much I raised the bottom edge at the sides and back (the original bottom edge is the edge of the sintra).

SDC13892.jpg

And the earcaps. I'm keeping the test-build simple -- no rangefinder. So I mirrored the left earcap over for the right.

--Jonah
 
Wow Peregrinus, that looks like a lot of work. I've done similar things before on other costumes (most notably Canti from FlCl), but never had to worry about fitting into a certain level of detail such as you have. That's impressive and inspiring.

I can't wait for my next paycheck to come in; I'll grab some high-impact styrene from US Plastic and get started on my first build.

I can't imagine wearing one made of actual metal without properly decking out the interior, too. Is that in your plans, as well? How does one get used to wearing a great helm? Are you in the SCA or Dagorhir or some other related group?
 
Now i'm probably the farthest thing from a "boba master"... but i just finished the main building and painting of my bucket, and idk but it appears to me as if Alan's template cheeks don't indent as much like the on-screen version or other versions of the helmet... i'm 99% sure this is due to my own faulty construction, but idk how i could've bent those cheeks more and yet made them fit. anyone else who's worked with WoF templates agree, or am I just a no-good boba-maker? hahahaha
 
It takes a bit of practice, yes. I have wasted a LOT of sintra on this and my gauntlet rough-passes. *heh* You can always feel free to modify the templates if it doesn't "feel" right to you. Try adjusting the cheekbones in further -- just make sure you can still get your head in past them. ;)

Dash... I am an obssessive-compulsive Virgo engineer. To say I'm a perfectionist is like saying the ocean is wet -- accurate, but inadequate. :) I like building costumes that can stand up to close-range scrutiny at a con, and the abuse of packing, wearing, and handling. The shortcuts taken for movie costumes don't really fly for me in this context. I don't have a wardrobe department making duplicates of various pieces to replace as they break/tear/fall off. I don't have to have it only hold together for a thirty-second take. I haven't blocked everything out in rehearsal so I know where everything is without being able to see...

My ultimate plans are probably going to take years and many thousands of dollars. For now... Yes, I intend to have the interior fully padded and lined (think motorcycle helmet). I've found I only swelter in helmets when there's room for hot air to circulate around my head. Close padding is better, as long as I have fresh airflow at my face. The metal helmet will also let me mount inducers to the cheekplates so the helmet itself becomes the speaker for my voice amp.

Yeah, I was in the SCA. I'd sorta like to be again at some point, but I've been so broke lately it hasn't been realistic. I need to redo my armour anyway, as I've grown since then...

--Jonah
 
The Foam PVC is sintra. Sintra is just one of many brand names. Buy at least the 3mm version though. I suggest at the minimum 4x4 feet sheet. Stuff is wonderful..Cuts ith a boxcutter and forms in the oven in a minute or two. You can use scroll saws or whatever and also a heat gun, oven is just my preference. Stuff takes paint very well too. In the US, you can find it in colors, which I get the gray, so when paint chips it's just added damage.



A question on choice of materials...I know everyone keeps talking about Sintra brand styrene sheet, I wanted to know if these* are acceptable stand-ins, because Sintra is expensive (where I've found it online) and most of the for sale signs I've seen now are in kits with stickers for $6+ each for just one sign, and are made of laminated cardboard half the time.

*Westward Plastics (UK) 23.5in x 48in (1128 square) @ $6 US for 1mm thick, $12 US for 2mm thick
*US Plastic Corp 40in x 72in (2880 square) @ $13 US for 1mm thick, $19 for 1.5mm thick, $36 for 2mm thick

US Plastic is cheaper for more at 1mm, but more expensive for 2mm. They're both different materials, I think; US Plastic is Styrene, Westward Plastics is "Foam PVC." Or are those the same thing? Will they mould and hold shape as well as Sintra brand?
 
I have that problem, too. With my very first Boba suit in 8th grade, I made it all out of cardboard and aluminum foil, and it was attached with sticky-back velcro (that's all I had money for at the time). I completely underestimated the durability (or lack thereof). Just an hour or two of trooping at school, then time to patch it up, and another hour or two of trick-or-treat-ing pretty much destroyed my armour. Everything fell off, and the shoulder and knee pads got pretty well destroyed. I lost my cape completely (it was windy), and my jetpack, while still largely held together, was short one rocket (it fell off, and I carried it in my candy bag) and one thruster cone (I lost it while trooping at school) by the end of the night. I know sintra will be stronger, but I'm still worried about losing some of it.

I guess I'll have competition, then, since my ultimate plans involve this being much more than just a costume, but preferably a fully-functional set of armour. I might leave the jetpack nonfunctional, since that's one common piece of tech I can do without. I'm not comfortable carrying around a bomb on my back. Between this and my plans for a suit of spaceworthy powered armour (ala Halo / Warhammer 40k / etc.), I think I'll be a bit busy myself. And constantly broke.

Your idea of using the entire helmet as the speaker for your voice amp is pretty neat, but just remember the sound quality degradation it will likely experience as a result of it being metal, and because of the padding. I might steal that idea if I ever make any of my armour out of metal instead of just going for klevlar or some similar synthetic compound. :p

I understand your pain at being too broke for the SCA. My dad took part for a long while, as did my brother, but he couldn't afford to keep building his armour, nor the time commitment for the events, let alone the research and tweaking it took to keep his persona historically accurate. I believe he got a helmet, some chest/shoulder armour, and his neck padding finished before he turned his attention more fully to getting his degree and climbing The Ladder.

**snippity snip**
I think I'll be stealing your grey sintra idea. That's a great way to cover up wear and tear, and I honestly didn't even think about it. I was thinking of buying some 1mm (for details) and some 2mm (for structure), but at your suggestion, I will instead go with 1mm and 3mm. I imagine 3mm will probably be somewhat more appropriately rigid for the chest armour and related components, and combined with the edge bevel I'm going to work into it, it should look very nice when I'm finished.

I think I'll be using a heat gun, combined with the back porch for work space, since I'm pretty sure my wife and the cats would complain considerably if I decided to use the oven :p (though I plan to get a toaster oven soon for crafts and circuit board reflow soldering).

Do you have a preferred source for buying foam PVC / Sintra in the US? And is the styrene sheet sold at the US Plastic link from above at all related to foam PVC? I see Sintra being referred to as styrene in many places, so hopefulyl you can see the source of my confusion. Are they really all just the same thing?

Also, I love the helmet pictured in your avatar. Are those little peripheral visor cuts actually backed by visor material, and do they perform as more than just cool-factor, enabling an actual gain in peripheral vision?
 
Your idea of using the entire helmet as the speaker for your voice amp is pretty neat, but just remember the sound quality degradation it will likely experience as a result of it being metal, and because of the padding.

Well, to clarify, just the cheek pieces -- the flat parts -- will have the inducers attached to them. The padding is likely going to end at the brow line and in front of the ears, so that entire portion will be finished... differently... inside. >_>

--Jonah
 
Ah, I see. That ought to be pretty neat. I've never seen a helmet used as a speaker. Should be interesting. Do post pics/video when it's done.

I'm also interested in seeing how accurate a helmet made entirely of metal would be. I have thought about using sheet aluminum and WoF's templates to make a metal helmet, but I can't think of how I would smooth out the transitions or add the appropriate amount of curve to anything without causing a cascade of problems further down the line. One tiny change here translates to a bigger change elsewhere, which translates to a huge change near the end. I understand hammering out the dome would probably be the best way to go, but for those of us without a forge, that might be a bit difficult to get a nice smooth helmet out of.

Forgive my naivete, I know next to nothing about metalworking or any serious fabrication. Never had much opportunity to learn, though I do intend to remedy that before I get too much older.
 
You can use a plumber's blowtorch to heat the dome for raising and planishing. It'd just take a long time. ;) As with all things: cost, time, quality -- pick two. Make a form to shape around using the modded WOF templates to determine the shape -- basically a lopsided truncated cone. Ish. I have a posterboard form for my sintra helmet and gauntlet test-builds:

SDC14053.jpg

In the back, there, on the left.

SDC13893.jpg

First attempt, since revised (but, as with all my more recent pics, the images were on the hard drive that died and haven't been recovered yet).

These might even work for the metal pieces, too, as I will use rollers to get the sheet metal to curve, get it fitted to the shape as closely as possible, then cut and weld/braze. But I'll most likely use these to make moulds from and make shaping forms out of hydrostone or some such. A forge would be nice to put the finished piece in for annealing once everything was joined, to relieve stress/fatigue, and having a heat-resistant shaper to stick it on as it gets more malleable would probably be a good thing...

I just wish I had th eequipment to do this. :( At this point it's just planning and patterning and preparing. *sigh*

--Jonah
 
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