ESB FP v.3 progress: KNEES AND SHOULDERS

Firespray Pilot said:
Wow bro, that is coming along great! (y) If you're still having a hard time finding the color for the knees, you can also switch up to rattlecans. There are some good sticky color threads in the armor section. Again, awesome job so far; keep us posted!
Click to expand...

Yeah, rattlecans....Norway. Hehe. We don´t have any of the brands mentioned in the rattlecans threads, so that´s even harder to find. But I think I´ll figure something out.

And thanks for the kind words brother!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just a quick question. I´m about to add the clear coat. Is there any type I should avoid using. Right now I have one from Humbrol and one from Vallejo. My reason for asking is that I don´t know if there is a difference in what you use on enamels and acrylics.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OK...now comes the tricky part!!!! I've heard horror stories of folks mixing different brands of paint/clearcoats!!!! Can potentially ruin your entire paint job!!!! I've never used either of those clearcoats with testors paint before, so I dunno??? Were I you, I would take a scrap peice of plastic or FG or whatever, and give it the same treatment as you did the armour...same paints etc, and then try your clear coat on that scrap piece to make sure its not gonna eat the paint!! Again, most will work togeter, and it usually isn't a problem, but you never know!!!! Why risk ruining your paintjob??/ Try it on scrap first!! At least, thats what I'd do??
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jango's kid said:
OK...now comes the tricky part!!!! I've heard horror stories of folks mixing different brands of paint/clearcoats!!!! Can potentially ruin your entire paint job!!!! I've never used either of those clearcoats with testors paint before, so I dunno??? Were I you, I would take a scrap peice of plastic or FG or whatever, and give it the same treatment as you did the armour...same paints etc, and then try your clear coat on that scrap piece to make sure its not gonna eat the paint!! Again, most will work togeter, and it usually isn't a problem, but you never know!!!! Why risk ruining your paintjob??/ Try it on scrap first!! At least, thats what I'd do??
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will! No rush to coat it anyway. I have until the middle of October to be ready with the costume, so no point in rushing it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks absolutely fantastic!! The right blend of everything to look truely "dirty"...great job!! If you stuck with all acrylic paints ie. Testors, Pollyscale, Model Masters, you should be more than safe with the Testors dullcote.

BUT...and this is a big one...the paintjob will go from looking three dimensional with all of the layers, colors and washes you applied to a two dimensional palette. Plus it will dull down your silver extensively. Trust me I know from experience. I had to go back in to apply different layers to get the effect I wanted and then left it alone.

It won't change like magic and be transformed into something completely different from what you're looking at and certainly not in photograph's, but the subtleties that give depth and dimension and realism (life) to it will be slightly diminished.

Just thought I'd give you a heads up what Dullcote/clearcoat will do. I had to use the Dullcote in layers when I was finished with one "step" of painting to seal in what I had already done, then move on. It was laborious, but worth it personally for me.

Steve
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Steve!

I was thinking that, since everything is fairly dull now I was thinking if maybe a satin clear coat in stead of a matte one? Isn´t satin a kind of "not-so-matte-just-not-glossy-either" finish? At least my sating black Humbrol tin is flat when it dries.

Oh and it´s all Model Master except for the silver which is Humbrol #11, but I guess the Humbrol should survive the Testors clear coat.

Oh, and how many clear coats should one put on there?

There probably not much I can do about it gettign a bit 2 dimentional now though.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok, I´m having trouble getting my grubby hands on the UP Armor Yellow for the knees and shoulders. And since pics on the web have a tendency to "lie" I´m wondering if anyone can tell me what this color looks like? :) I know this is a bit hard, but I can´t find a conversion chart for the Floquil paints.

Is it a light yellow beige color? It looks like that in the pics, almost like light sand or something. If anyone on the other hand has a conversion chart for Floquil to Vallejo or Humbrol I´d be a happy camper!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
cr4nky said:
Thanks Steve!

I was thinking that, since everything is fairly dull now I was thinking if maybe a satin clear coat in stead of a matte one? Isn´t satin a kind of "not-so-matte-just-not-glossy-either" finish? At least my sating black Humbrol tin is flat when it dries.

Oh and it´s all Model Master except for the silver which is Humbrol #11, but I guess the Humbrol should survive the Testors clear coat.

Oh, and how many clear coats should one put on there?

There probably not much I can do about it gettign a bit 2 dimentional now though.
Click to expand...


The satin seems more popular with shoulders & knees whereas the dull seems more popular with the armor/helmet/jetpack. Although it has been a good three years since I painted up my costume, things may have shifted a bit ;)

Plus if you're going for the top coat, one coating of clear will be just fine. And don't sweat the two-dimensional thing as you'll likely be the only one to notice the difference ;)

And the UP armor yellow is more of a sunshine yellow, not sandy. The costume ref. pics you're likely viewing are weathered down a tad don't forget.

Can't wait to see more of your progress:cheers

Steve
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks a lot Steve. I´ll go to the store when I get my paycheck and find some from Vallejo, they have their entire range here. I also need a substitute for the CNW green on the diamond.

More progress as soon as there is some. Stay tuned:)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
what yellow did you use on the armor?

also is the armor acceptable "spruce green" to match the gaunts or is it a seperate color altogether?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
On the armor here I used 4 or 5 different colors on the green parts. The yellow is Model Master Yellow Zinc Chromate and the silver is Humbrol #11
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Got some lightish yellowish color for the shoulders and knees today, I´ll hopefully get that on them tomorrow.

On another note, regarding clear coating. I asked a fairly experienced guy at a hobby shop today about mixing brands and so forth. Long story short, ha always used Humbrol clear coat, thinned out with as little as possible universal thinner. The technique he applied the coat with goes like this:

Thin layer of clear coat and then on the way back use only air from the airbrush to instantaneously dry it. This has worked for him with all different brands of paint he has used, enamels as well as acrylics.

He could also inform me that Vallejo clear coats did not offer any more protection than a standard layer of acrylic paint.

Hopefully I´ll show some progress on the armor tomorrow.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Finally it´s almost time to finish this armor. I just got confirmation from Testors that the dullcoat I have access to here in Norway will work with the paints I´ve used. I just need it to dump into my mailbox and then I can seal these babies in. Also waiting on some more maskol so I can finish the knees and shoulders.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I did a coat with the Humbrol Matt Cote today on a few select parts. Just wanted to test it to see if it reacted with the different brands of paint I have used.

I used it (thinned with white spirit) on Vallejo acrylics and on Model Master acrylics, one layer and it´s been on there for a couple hours now and no sign of any chemical reaction with the paints yet. :)

So for now, people painting with Vallejo or Model Master can use the Humbrol Matt Cote safely (unless I get a late reaction:p).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Got a lot of work done today! All these four parts where silver this morning:)

The flash wipes away a lot of the light misting on some parts. I´m considering darkening the knees a bit more tomorrow.

Enjoy!

IMG_1529.jpg


IMG_1531.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This thread is more than 14 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.

Similar threads

Eli Jinn
Yellow damage on ESB knees and shoulders
Replies
2
Views
892
Jurassic_Fett
Jurassic_Fett
DrToothache
Flight Suit ESB Flight Suit Dying Progress - Looking for Opinions
Replies
12
Views
1,086
jakotadones
jakotadones
S
Recommended vendors and why
Replies
5
Views
265
viewoptic
viewoptic
jakotadones
General Free Interactive ESB Fett Checklist of tasks and materials
Replies
4
Views
541
ThePhantom
ThePhantom
viewoptic
viewoptic's ESB Build
2 3 4
Replies
66
Views
3,780
viewoptic
viewoptic

Similar threads

Eli Jinn
Yellow damage on ESB knees and shoulders
Replies
2
Views
892
Jurassic_Fett
Jurassic_Fett
DrToothache
Flight Suit ESB Flight Suit Dying Progress - Looking for Opinions
Replies
12
Views
1,086
jakotadones
jakotadones
S
Recommended vendors and why
Replies
5
Views
265
viewoptic
viewoptic
jakotadones
General Free Interactive ESB Fett Checklist of tasks and materials
Replies
4
Views
541
ThePhantom
ThePhantom
viewoptic
viewoptic's ESB Build
2 3 4
Replies
66
Views
3,780
viewoptic
viewoptic
Back
Top