Scratch building the AOTC helmet.

Will this be approximately the same size as your previous clone helmet? I've started modding a Kelloggs helmet, but the more I compare it to actual screen shots, the more I think I would be better off just building one from scratch. I look forward to following this thread. :)


Firespray, Yes, you would better off building from scratch. Modifying anything to look like somthing else is just as much work as starting from scratch, or more. I started this thread to provide information to people who get put off buy the "blank slate" syndrome that so many people suffer, so they can get started.

"Blank Slate" sydrome, you ask? It is the anxiety of facing nothing and figuring out how or where to start. Just like every writer hates to see that blank page staring before them, so is the model builder with empty space before him. No one wants to start a long project without some assurance that there will be a payoff in the end.

So I hope those who read this, start to take on the challenge and share their results and techniques with the rest of us.
 
Ok cool, so what foam is that you use to sculpt with? It seems like a great medium for a project like this, If I could get hold of something like that I would definitely be up for having a good go at sculpting it (y)
 
I am based in the UK and have just ordered a few sheets of high density blue carving foam to test out, if its any good I will have to sort myself out with some measurements, I have an OSCS episode 3 helmet which will help in terms of scale
 
Ok, I am going to have a go at this, I don't know how successful I will be but I am going to give it a try, what would help me is if I can nail down certain measurements, as I understand it the MR EP3 clone helmet was scaled up, is this also the case with the EFX EP2 helmet? Under the advice of Jon I am drawing out profile shots of the helmet, these will be my rough guide in my initial carving, wish me luck (y)
 
I order it locally from a manufacturer, who can cut it any size for me. If you don't have a supplier near you, there is always this place: http://www.vandykestaxidermy.com/se...=&arr_filter[arr_variation_options][color][]=

I have never ordered from them, so I can't tell you much about them. I did some calculations and believe they are 6# and 8# density, but don't trust me on that. I would contact them and ask.

I've ordered a ton of the stuff from them, all around #4 ~ #6 density and it works great. Carves real easy and takes polyester resin fine. Make sure you own a shop vac to clean up all the dust when you're done! It's extremely messy.
 
Ok, early days but here's where I am with my first profile shot, I invite any and all critiques as that's the whole point, and yes I know the fin is missing, second pic shows a few minutes later when I had decided the done was too tall, also mocked up a rough fin (y)

clone1.JPG


clone2.JPG
 
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Here is my drawings done in Illustrator over actual screen grabs. I can email large versions of these to anyone who would like them.

Clone-Drawing.jpg
 
Try try again (y)

Even better. Nice drawing.

Here's my obsevation thus far, The cheek triangle look a little curved. My thought on that is that the bottom most leg of the Cheek Triangle should be parallel to the Disk.


Observation #2: For the sake of one's nose, the angle between the face and the disk need to be increased by enough to allow for the distance between your nose and your forehead. This is two fingers for me.

I drew this out on paper a while back, and I made a few notes:


3271317782_6e6960e40c_o.png



The Fin is the same width as Vent. As I labled above, or tried to, the Vent is in a valley, whose lines straight to the fin. I also think it is worthwhile to assign that same width to the Breather Box. I made note to myself that building a spine of the width would be the best anchor to the Disk.

The Cheek Triangle is perpendicular to the Disk. That Can be the anchor between the Disk and the (yet to be labled) Base Curve Disk. The Base Curve Disk will be so useful to the building of the model, that it (rightfully so) deserves its very own code-word-anacronym, so that it can be referred to often.

If you cut any card stock to the exact size of the lowest part of the helmet, the lip before the collar, you would have the Base Curve Disk, semi circle in back, and an parabola in the front. Perfectionist, and you know who we are, will include a square notch in the front to anchor the Breather Box. Although this BCD can be cut flat, when it forms the Base Curve, it distortst the semicircle and the parabola.

This is where the foam blocks come in handy. Place your template onto a 4" block of PU foam . Cut 90 deg. to the edge of the template, and that is the beginning of your Helmet Lip Perimiter. That is a new term the needs to be HLP.

Should I add my new nifty "jargon" to the list ? BCD and HLP Shall now be come part of helmet modeling lingo.

If someone has a hot-wire set up, I envision that cutting a piece of EPS to the profile of the Base Curve, and then turn the hot-wire 90 deg. and cut the semicircle and the parabola.
 
Please add to things to ponder: The Ears, are the parallel front to back? I think the efx model converges toward the front.

Feel free to discuss.
 
Ok I think I am understanding what you are saying, and the angle of the cheek line did seem a bit curved to me also, I should stress that the drawing I have done is at half size, I just wanted to get the profile I was happy with before going full size, this is pre-preliminary prep work :lol: As far at the ears I agree that they taper from front to back as you look down on the helmet, they are wider at the front

Also I think the 'base curve disk' swoops in a little more at the front of the helmet, beneath the chin as per Firesprays image, thanks for that by the way its a good one
 
Here's where I am at so far, I elongated the dome slightly, narrowed the visor, added the rear quarter detail, I expect I will make yet more adjustments (y)

clone4.JPG
 
Yep, thats looking much nicer. Ilike even better if your drawing to scale, because building it in scale is good practice before commiting 1:1 scale resources to the project. I have built several quick scale models in an evening to test building technicques before going full scale.

My nose will thank you to angle the front more. Anyone who has worn any form of clone helmet, smashes their nose.
 
they are wider at the front




No, I am saying the opposite, wider in the rear. Take a look at Firespray's drawing above. The front view of the helmet shows the ear faces. This follows that the front of the helmet gets narrower than the round back.

Firespray, your Illustrator version look just like the digital model. I need to get illustrator. Can you generate other views? Top? Rear?
 
What gave me an idea that they were wider at the front was this shot of the EFX helmet, thanks to Jez at starwarshelmets.com hope you don't mind the use of the image (y)

EFX-AotC_17.JPG
 
Firespray, your Illustrator version look just like the digital model. I need to get illustrator. Can you generate other views? Top? Rear?

I'll see what I can come up with as far as screen grabs. I believe the Star Wars Chronicles Prequel edition has CG photos of the back view and possibly a top view. I don't recall if it shows the top view but I'm thinking it does. I'll look this evening. If so, I can scan these and draw them as well.

I'm sizing the drawings about the same size as the Kelloggs helmet. Do you think this will be about the right size?
 
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