D_N ESB Bucket Paint Job

D

Darth Nickel

Active Hunter

• Feb 9, 2009

• #21

Once again... thank you TF!!! I figured I would have to pick at it a bit to sharpen the edges. I've also got some dental tools that I've used for some SS work. I may give those a run at the helmet as well. It should add some "interesting" scratches. I'll be happy to get the back panels done. I'm a little nervous about moving to the dome…. It's the most iconic looking area (in my oppinion). I still need to better fit the RF ear, so once I'm done with the back panel and can remove all the masking, I'll have a little bit of construction work/fitting to do before I get too far on the dome green.

I got one panel (right) masked off last night. I'm going to work on the left panel tonight. Perhaps I'll get the final green added sooner.. rather than later… Masking the cream/gray/silver/metal is much more of a challenge than I anticipated. There are a lot of little details that need to get added. I'm sure mine will not be spot on, but I hope I make a decent run at it. I've found my eye "gets lost" for lack of better terms. I KNOW I'm looking at it, yet I can't match up what I want to paint vs mask. It's like my brain goes on overload. If that makes sense. I may need to go back and do a little touch up once it's all on there.

 

D

Darth Nickel

Active Hunter

• Mar 3, 2009

• #22

So here is the latest update. It got cold before I could get the next layer on, so I had to wait for another day. TF and I also spent some time on the back green color. I fear, my application is just too thick so it's less transparent than it should be. I think the color turned out nice, but I do wish I was just a hair lighter on the application. The parts that are transparent are pretty darn cool...

I took some pictures in the morning light, so I'll try to add those tonight. These are fresh from the removal of the mask late at night.

 

W

Wes

Active Hunter

• Mar 3, 2009

• #23

DN,

I know you probably don't want to hear this now, but the keyslots need some structural work.

Take your time and keep practicing, not bad for your first layered bucket.

 

D

Darth Nickel

Active Hunter

• Mar 3, 2009

• #24

Thanks Wes. You're right... it's not what I wanted to hear. Can you explain a little more. I'm just trying to learn here.

 

W

Wes

Active Hunter

• Mar 4, 2009

• #25

They should be more uniform and crisp if your going for an accurate replica.

This drawing is not to scale, just a reference to see what I mean.

 

Attachments

• keyslots.pdf

  38.5 KB · Views: 309

D

Darth Nickel

Active Hunter

• Mar 4, 2009

• #26

I see... darn - I don't know if I can fix that. The paint is not a huge problem to touch up, but that looks to be some major construction.... I would need to build up parts and remove others. Removal wouldn't be hard, but the build up would do a lot of damage. I may have to leave this one as (and hope with the board behind them it's not as noticeable). Ponder this I will...

thanks for the help Wes. The picture was a massive help.

I'm surprised no one called out the ear…. I had to remove the molded ear to install the metal ears. In retrospect, I should have filled the inside of the ear and sanded it down vs cut it off… I'm left with a gap under the top ranger fider ear… fix this problem I must. It's also my first time seeing a fan made Boba in person, so I suppose you live and ya learn...

 

W

Wes

Active Hunter

• Mar 4, 2009

• #27

Exactly, the more you mess with it the more you learn.
Keep it up.

 

D

Darth Nickel

Active Hunter

• Mar 4, 2009

• #28

Thanks Wes. It's been great learning. I can't wait for my next bucket.

 

D

Darth Nickel

Active Hunter

• Mar 4, 2009

• #29

I spent some time picking at the layers to sharpen some of the areas. Here is the updated bucket as of today. Like I said above, I've got to solve the ear issue, then I'll head over up to the dome.

 

D

Darth Finger

Hunter

• Apr 22, 2009

• #30

How did I miss this thread? Looks great Brad

 

A

aero

Active Hunter

• Apr 23, 2009

• #31

Hi,
you say you have a gap between the dome and the top of the right ear.
Thats easy to fix all you need to do is,

1. Cover the back and the sides of the ear with masking tape (making sure that you don't leave any creases on any of the edges).

2. Get some bondo or Polyester filler, cover the entire back of the ear with the bondo / filler.

3. lightly sand the area around were the ear will be placed.

4. Put the ear in the correct position an squeeze into place.
(Don't worry about the excess oozing out as you can remove it quite easily later).

There's is a point when the bondo / filler is hard put no fully cured , use a craft knife and cut around the ear and remove the excess.

depending how much hardener you put in the filler it shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to harden.

This will leave a sharp edge around the ear. remove the ear from the bondo /filler (this will come away easy as the masking tape has a slight waxy surface.

hope this helps

Jason

(if you want me to explain in more detail with photo's pm me)

 

D

Darth Nickel

Active Hunter

• Apr 23, 2009

• #32

Thanks Jason!!!! That's a great method. The biggest problem I found was that if you look at a TF helmet, or FP helmet, the ear "mounts" to the helmet on a raised extension of the ear. Meaning, the ear I have is now too thin and doesn't meet the helmet 100%.

You can see it slightly here...

There should be a portion of the helmet that comes out to meet the top of the ear.

as seen here on a TF bucket from TF's thread.

So, I built that back into the helmet. Basically using sheets of plastic cut, glues and sized to fit the hole. They extend out, but it's not perfect. I used magic scup resin to fill the gaps between the helmet and the insert. I had to be very careful since the dome is 3/4 the way through the paint app. I'll have to take a new picture and post it.

Like I said, it's not 100% perfect, but it's better than the gap.

 

A

aero

Active Hunter

• Apr 23, 2009

• #33

the way i mentioned has very little mess.
By using the filler you would be able to create that section very easily.
i use this method on my own helmet to get it 100% on the money.

any chance i can have a look at what you've done?

 

D

Darth Nickel

Active Hunter

• Apr 23, 2009

• #34

Yea, here is pretty much finished product. Like I said, it's not perfect, but I think it will work. I can now mount the ears without a gap. Once I get the paint on the ear (I'm just about done with the base coats/damage) I'll post up a pic with the ear attached.

What do ya think?

 

A

aero

Active Hunter

• Apr 24, 2009

• #35

yeah as long as the RH ear sit's flush and your happy with it.
Good job .

Jason