Sci-Fire TDH Clone Trooper WIP
- Thread starter Replicant Shadow
- Start date
Replicant Shadow
Active Hunter
Not much of an update today, need to make a supply run to my local hobby store, Dave's Hobby Central so I can continue on the interior dressing and mechanics of the forearms. Heading out once I post this.
I painted the rightside halve of the left forearm last night. I still need to add "plastron" encased wires from the magnetic coupler to the Engery Sink. I decided for the time being to leave this particular halve cleanly painted, just to see if I like the vibe better. I may repaint the leftside half, then allow regular wear and usage create the appropiate scrapage, allowing the the undercolor (Tamiya Metal) to reveal itself naturally over time. I also re-aligned the top plastron wire on the leftside halve to run flush along top of the Engery sink, and there is still some clean up to do on the details.
This suit will be in fact magnetized:
I painted the rightside halve of the left forearm last night. I still need to add "plastron" encased wires from the magnetic coupler to the Engery Sink. I decided for the time being to leave this particular halve cleanly painted, just to see if I like the vibe better. I may repaint the leftside half, then allow regular wear and usage create the appropiate scrapage, allowing the the undercolor (Tamiya Metal) to reveal itself naturally over time. I also re-aligned the top plastron wire on the leftside halve to run flush along top of the Engery sink, and there is still some clean up to do on the details.
This suit will be in fact magnetized:
HeadlessHunter
Well-Known Hunter
Man do I want a set of this stuff 
Excellent work and the attention to detail should be applauded!!
Excellent work and the attention to detail should be applauded!!
postmortem01
Active Hunter
You guys are awesome! I am thoroughly impressed. This thread is a ton of fun also.
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MandalorFett
Well-Known Hunter
Nice work Replicant! That Sci-Fire armor is niiiiice and I know what a stickler you are for details. Looking forward to more of your progress.
Replicant Shadow
Active Hunter
Thank you Jim! I hope all is well with you and the family!
Okay, this weekend I changed direction and did some work on the chest plate. When building armor, I have found that it's best to slowly bounce around, as a way of maintaining scale amongst the different parts. Contsructive A.D.D. lol!
Again, like I do with all the parts, I carefully penciled in my trim lines. This in itself took a few hours, and I in fact trimmed off as much of the excess plastic prior to setting my final trim lines, as it's a very slow process of balancing reference against your own physique. Let's face it, most of us know by now, that it has to be practical for real life usage. Striking that balance between practicallity over detail can be very ardous. In the case of clone armor, measure 10 times, trim once.....very carefully and slowly.
Once all the trimming was done, I cleaned up the freshly cut trim areas with 80 grit, then proceeded up the scale to 220, for a smooth, even finish. I then sanded the whole entire piece in 220 (with the chest breast line areas, I hit it hard with 120 grit first, to sharpen up the definition, then followed by 220grit)
Next: Shocking
In the images below, I am using a type of "shocking" treatment to conform the plastic to a desired form. This is the process of carefully using moderated heat to warm the plastic, setting the desired form, then dipping the heated plastic into ice water. Prior to heating, I use clear packing tape, taping the oppisite sides together, to "bring in" the sides of the chest armor, to a predetermined, desired setting. Next, I fill one side of the sink in very hot water*, the other side with ice cold water. Next, I take a blow dryer to the areas that require warming to soften up the plastic; then set the entire piece in the hot water. I left it in the hot water for about 10 mins, then quickly dipped the chest plate into the iced water.
*Use caution! Some plastics may warp when placed in hot water!! You may also injure yourself, so be very carefull!
In the case of this armor, the plastic is the toughest I have ever worked with. The pull is so tight, the plastic thickness is exact throughout. Incrediably tough. I had to repeat this particular treatment 3 times, and I may have to go out and buy a heat gun to accomplish the final end goal.
PLEASE BE ADIVSED that I am not done trimming the chestplate as ot yet. Still need to work on the the strap areas, plus need to process the backplate, before any finalized, permanant trimming:
Hot water in the left sink, ice cold on the right.
Initial dipping into the hot water. If you look closely, you can see the clear tape. The use of the clear tape allows for ease of visual monitering during the proceedure.
Well, I just realized I didn't take a picture of the part in the ice water:cry lol!
Here is the piece, after the process (conducted 3 times) I may need to do more aggressive shocking, but I will determine that once the backplate is trimmed, and I have I better idea of what I am against at that time:
Okay, this weekend I changed direction and did some work on the chest plate. When building armor, I have found that it's best to slowly bounce around, as a way of maintaining scale amongst the different parts. Contsructive A.D.D. lol!
Again, like I do with all the parts, I carefully penciled in my trim lines. This in itself took a few hours, and I in fact trimmed off as much of the excess plastic prior to setting my final trim lines, as it's a very slow process of balancing reference against your own physique. Let's face it, most of us know by now, that it has to be practical for real life usage. Striking that balance between practicallity over detail can be very ardous. In the case of clone armor, measure 10 times, trim once.....very carefully and slowly.
Once all the trimming was done, I cleaned up the freshly cut trim areas with 80 grit, then proceeded up the scale to 220, for a smooth, even finish. I then sanded the whole entire piece in 220 (with the chest breast line areas, I hit it hard with 120 grit first, to sharpen up the definition, then followed by 220grit)
Next: Shocking
In the images below, I am using a type of "shocking" treatment to conform the plastic to a desired form. This is the process of carefully using moderated heat to warm the plastic, setting the desired form, then dipping the heated plastic into ice water. Prior to heating, I use clear packing tape, taping the oppisite sides together, to "bring in" the sides of the chest armor, to a predetermined, desired setting. Next, I fill one side of the sink in very hot water*, the other side with ice cold water. Next, I take a blow dryer to the areas that require warming to soften up the plastic; then set the entire piece in the hot water. I left it in the hot water for about 10 mins, then quickly dipped the chest plate into the iced water.
*Use caution! Some plastics may warp when placed in hot water!! You may also injure yourself, so be very carefull!
In the case of this armor, the plastic is the toughest I have ever worked with. The pull is so tight, the plastic thickness is exact throughout. Incrediably tough. I had to repeat this particular treatment 3 times, and I may have to go out and buy a heat gun to accomplish the final end goal.
PLEASE BE ADIVSED that I am not done trimming the chestplate as ot yet. Still need to work on the the strap areas, plus need to process the backplate, before any finalized, permanant trimming:
Hot water in the left sink, ice cold on the right.
Initial dipping into the hot water. If you look closely, you can see the clear tape. The use of the clear tape allows for ease of visual monitering during the proceedure.
Well, I just realized I didn't take a picture of the part in the ice water:cry lol!
Here is the piece, after the process (conducted 3 times) I may need to do more aggressive shocking, but I will determine that once the backplate is trimmed, and I have I better idea of what I am against at that time:
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CombatBaby
Well-Known Hunter
my god there is way too much detail!
papamurf812
Jr Hunter
Why does this have to be so perfect? If I had the money, I would love a set with this kind of detail.
postmortem01
Active Hunter
That's awesome. I learned something today. Thanks dude.
Also, great job on trimming. One thing you may want to do...you may already be doing this... You can add a piece of 1/16" thick styrene to the back of the center line of the chest. I used a triangular file to define a sharp line into chest on mine. It makes a huge difference. Just a suggestion. I'll post a picture later.
Also, great job on trimming. One thing you may want to do...you may already be doing this... You can add a piece of 1/16" thick styrene to the back of the center line of the chest. I used a triangular file to define a sharp line into chest on mine. It makes a huge difference. Just a suggestion. I'll post a picture later.
Replicant Shadow
Active Hunter
Thanks for the tip JB!
Replicant Shadow
Active Hunter
Thank you gentleman! Thank you all very much for your support and comments. Feel free anytime Cruzer, I can get it all trimmed up to your specs no problem sir!
CGClone
Active Hunter
This is what I did on my C6 chest, it makes a big difference.
postmortem01
Active Hunter
yeah. I've never had to shrink my armor. I was left in the cloning device a little too long and grew a little bigger....ahem....has nothing to do with eating too much.
John, to hear you talk about yourself, someone would expect you were a whale! While I sure wouldn't want to run into you in a dark alley, you aren't THAT big!
HeadlessHunter
Well-Known Hunter
Keep coming back for more, any updates to this awesome suit?
