My FIRST ESB Rattlecan job (In Progress)

Boomer Fett

Active Hunter
Well, first let me say that I bought this bucket off of eBay (first mistake) from a guy in California who took over a month to mail it to me (after I opened a dispute). It was advertised as a "Mystery Helmet" and it came with resin parts. The key holes and the visor had to be cut out then epoxy the keyhole back in place. I paid $90 shipped and although I am very happy with the quality i.e. the durability and size, I wish I ha found TDH EARLIER!!!!
note: The seller on eBay was vanquished after this auction as I believe he sold way more than he actually made.

I used nothing but rattle cans and liquid frisket in painting this. I think you all know that you can get close but NEVER accurate unless you really practice a lot!!!

Here is what I started with after a month of cutting and sanding and shaping...

old.jpg


old1.jpg
 
Here is round 2 after Primer, Silver, Red, Dome Green, Mandable Green and a touch of black. Remember this is my FIRST ATTEMPT!! Be kind but be CRITICAL!!! I'm a big boy with big boy underwear so let me have it!!!

mid.jpg


new2.jpg
 
other than feeling like i am eating a taco to look at the pics, VERY nice job brother!! :lol: glad to see you got underwear big enough to hold your ego...;):p seriously though, looking really good! i like the damage you have created with that layering effect...(y)
 
Well after straining my neck to see the last 2 pics... :lol:

I'd say good job so far, but if I can offer some critique... the grey around your silver appears to be too dark and your dents 'trailing' scuff is too low?
 
Well after straining my neck to see the last 2 pics... :lol:

I'd say good job so far, but if I can offer some critique... the grey around your silver appears to be too dark and your dents 'trailing' scuff is too low?


Good call. Tonight I am hitting it all over with steel wool then the decals and "dirtying it up" with flat black and a hint of brown primer. After that it will be clear coated. I still have some work on the ears too. This stuff AINT EASY!!!:facepalm:eek:
 
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I have a very good suspicion that your bucket is a casting of a Don Post. The reason I say that is the thickness of the visor rim on the inside. The DP ones have a WAY too thick rim, and need to be cut down a LOT. Paint job looks good, though I agree with some of the previous comments.
 
Paint looks pretty good. One thing to note on a vinyl helmet is this.

Look at your FIRST pic. Look at the lines of the lower cheeks.

One flares out, one flares in. On the real helmet, its PERFECTLY straight.

Use a piece of alum stock or similar, glue it to the back an inch at a time, to make them both straight. This will help your mandibles all together keep a nice tidy line.

Looks sweet though. Keep it up:)
 
Paint looks pretty good. One thing to note on a vinyl helmet is this.

Look at your FIRST pic. Look at the lines of the lower cheeks.

One flares out, one flares in. On the real helmet, its PERFECTLY straight.

Use a piece of alum stock or similar, glue it to the back an inch at a time, to make them both straight. This will help your mandibles all together keep a nice tidy line.

Looks sweet though. Keep it up:)
Hey Storm, this is a resin helmet not vinyl. How should I fix it on this lid? HELP!!!
 
I have a very good suspicion that your bucket is a casting of a Don Post. The reason I say that is the thickness of the visor rim on the inside. The DP ones have a WAY too thick rim, and need to be cut down a LOT. Paint job looks good, though I agree with some of the previous comments.


I can only go by my sons DP and mine is a good deal larger than his. I have never seen a DP 96 in person so I will leave it to the experts here. Thanks!:cheers
 
Haha, your helmet looks a lot better than mine! The gray around the silver is too dark, as Mojo said.
But I really like the paint on your mandibles, blows mine out of the water. For a first time paint-job, you got me beat.:eek:
 
I thinkthe DPS are resin, but its a little softer.

You can get it hot (Not too hot) and it will soften a bit. It should be able to be flexed though when warm. Im talking 100 degrees, NOT 175 like an oven on warm.

My DP was resin, but it was a lot softer than regular resin. I always assumed it was some sort of vinyl pourable plastic.

At any rate. Theres a couple ways to heat somethign slowly.

One is a big cardboard box with your helmet in it. and a blowdryer blowing hot air into the box.

Cut a hole in the box. and blow the air in, but not directly on the helmet.

Keep checking it every minute or two, make sure it isnt getting too hot too fast.

Around 95-100 degrees it will become a lot more plyable. But not so plyable the paint will chip crack. If you get it too hot, it might.

At this point you can straighten the lower mandible lines. I did this with my DP95, but it was before I painted it. At this point a piece of alum stock or any othe rstiff material should hold it straight if you glue it to the lower edge line.
 
Thanks Storm, I will try it. My helmet has NO flexibility right now. I mean NONE. It is 1/4 inch hard as a rock and weighs 10 lbs of solid resin. I would love to straighten it out. If not I am definitely down for buying a MR or other completed work later.
 
Here is round 2 after Primer, Silver, Red, Dome Green, Mandable Green and a touch of black. Remember this is my FIRST ATTEMPT!! Be kind but be CRITICAL!!! I'm a big boy with big boy underwear so let me have it!!!


Looks great ! can you tell me what color you used on the cheeks and back of the dome and was that a rattle can and are they the same color ?
THX
 
Looks great ! can you tell me what color you used on the cheeks and back of the dome and was that a rattle can and are they the same color ?
THX
It was all rattle can. I will list all my cans tomorrow. The colors are different. I used 4 or 5 dirrering colors of green on it so far.:cheers
 
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