FettPride V3 / SR V1 Rubber Knee Signup
- Thread starter Stormrider
- Start date
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
No prob,.. I think your attitude and hard work shows..and your intentions have always been good ones.
Just glad you won't be losing anything out of pocket anymore, that's never any fun.
Good Luck with the run.
Maybe I can paint up a first pair for ya??
Why dont i send you a pair you can paint them up, and either keep them or give them to Jeremy Bulloch. Id like him to wear 'for pam' around on his knees
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
They are rubber. I use 'parma rc lexan body paint' you get it at hobby shops. It BONDS HARD to it. I can barely scrape it off. And its flexible.
I wouldnt use any old spray paint. If you have to it would need to be acrylic I would think.
Maybe we can have spidey test
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
The darts are going to take a few days to get going. I have to modify the best of the 'master darts' to have a protrusion. Then re-cast it... 8 times so I dont have to pour them one at a time. So the dartless will most likely start shipping first.
Thanks everyone. Its much appreciated. I havent reached chris yet, but i think he will be happy about all of this
Thanks everyone. Its much appreciated. I havent reached chris yet, but i think he will be happy about all of this
My Only Fettish
Active Hunter
I would like one set with darts please.
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
I found a slight blemish on the knee dart area for the knee with 2 dents.
Its a 'crease' like line. where some silicone seeped in.
Im going to take close up pics. If anyone wants out after seeing it, its understandable. im pulling a set now so I can post the pics.
Its a 'crease' like line. where some silicone seeped in.
Im going to take close up pics. If anyone wants out after seeing it, its understandable. im pulling a set now so I can post the pics.
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
These are esb/rotj. The only knees that were different were the Pre Pro knees.
The paint however is slightly different between the two. Theres a tan mist on everything rotj.
I hope that helps.
Ill put you down for a set.
M2
The paint however is slightly different between the two. Theres a tan mist on everything rotj.
I hope that helps.
Ill put you down for a set.
M2
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
The darts that I give you will have a leading notch on the end. It will have threading texture. A little epoxy and push it in and it wont come out. (Youll have to drill the hole).
I have already provided a small med sized countersink for darts.
I cant make a 'attachment process' universal because everyone alrady has good/alum darts, so i have to allow for people to attach their darts any way they can. I suggest a 'bolt' protrusion as mentioned above. It will provide stability.
Just dont drill too deep Youll come out the back
A T-Nut protrusion in glued would allow for screw in darts. hmm. maybe i should work on that!
I have already provided a small med sized countersink for darts.
I cant make a 'attachment process' universal because everyone alrady has good/alum darts, so i have to allow for people to attach their darts any way they can. I suggest a 'bolt' protrusion as mentioned above. It will provide stability.
Just dont drill too deep
Youll come out the backA T-Nut protrusion in glued would allow for screw in darts. hmm. maybe i should work on that!
shabad
Active Hunter
My psberetta machined darts would ideally be drilled through and screwed in with a washer in place to help spread the load, they were made to fit the FPv3 knees so they should fit fine but would the weight and need for a screw compromise the rubber? I apologise if I'm retreading.
I'm interested in your darts if you decide to make them in rubber.
I'm interested in your darts if you decide to make them in rubber.
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Send me a pic of how they attach shabad. Ill tear up a bad pull and try it. So you dont risk it yourself. The fp v3 knees had a hard piece of resin in them. Thee dont, however the rubber shouyld hold it. I think you could hollow it out in the back with a dremel also. Ill try it on the first one I pulled that I didnt have enough rubber and it left the end missing.
I did the darts in rubber/cold cast today. The problem is it leaves some bubbles. ill have to play with it a bit to see if its possible to get consistent clean pulls.
I did the darts in rubber/cold cast today. The problem is it leaves some bubbles. ill have to play with it a bit to see if its possible to get consistent clean pulls.
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Ok, The good news and bad news thus far.
Heres a pic of the good and the bad. Heres the first full pull tonight. Came out great. From 2 feet away its perfect.
However when you get up close, theres a spot on the dart launcher rear that has a seep line. What this means is that the model came un-sealed when i removed my mount. Some silicone got under it. A paper thin sheet. So you have essencially a paper thin gap in the rubber. Third picture.
I didnt see this on my first pull, because I didnt use enough rubber to fully pull that side of the mold So the top was just missing. Its also on an undercut so on initial clean up, id idnt see it. Today I saw part of it, but didnt know how far it went till I got home.
I still give these an 8.5 - 9 right out of the mold. But they arent 10's.
Anyone thats made a mold of this magnitude knows that you rarely get perfect.
The problem here is the mold has to be 'hot' when you pour the rubber. Or it wont cure properly. So I had to make it a big block mold.
A 4 gallon block mold. Which cost $649for just the silicone from alumilite. Im telling you thyis because if it was a 10 dollar mold. Id remake it. Even a hundred dollar mold. But I cant remake a 600 dollar mold:/
That being said examine the pictures and if you want off the list, pm me. I personally cant see the line from 2 feet away.
Heres a pic of the good and the bad. Heres the first full pull tonight. Came out great. From 2 feet away its perfect.
However when you get up close, theres a spot on the dart launcher rear that has a seep line. What this means is that the model came un-sealed when i removed my mount. Some silicone got under it. A paper thin sheet. So you have essencially a paper thin gap in the rubber. Third picture.
I didnt see this on my first pull, because I didnt use enough rubber to fully pull that side of the mold
So the top was just missing. Its also on an undercut so on initial clean up, id idnt see it. Today I saw part of it, but didnt know how far it went till I got home.I still give these an 8.5 - 9 right out of the mold. But they arent 10's.
Anyone thats made a mold of this magnitude knows that you rarely get perfect.
The problem here is the mold has to be 'hot' when you pour the rubber. Or it wont cure properly. So I had to make it a big block mold.
A 4 gallon block mold. Which cost $649for just the silicone from alumilite. Im telling you thyis because if it was a 10 dollar mold. Id remake it. Even a hundred dollar mold. But I cant remake a 600 dollar mold:/
That being said examine the pictures and if you want off the list, pm me. I personally cant see the line from 2 feet away.
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Rubber Darts cold cast. Not sure about em. The rubber holds a lot of bubbles. WOuld have to figure out how to get the bubbles out.
RangerChet
Jr Hunter
Add me to the list for a set with darts.
asok
Well-Known Hunter
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Thanks asok, I read your thread. Multiple time including tonight.
The problem I have with them now is that the pieces of the dart are 'stepped'. Thick, narrow, thick, narrow from base to tip.
The bubbles start to flow out of the part from tip to base, but they get caught on the 'step'. Will your machine help force them around the steps?
I thought it was more because the rubber is so thick more than because its got entrapped air. I thought pouring the rubber into the dart trapped the air, and then it would get 'caught' on the lips coming out.
Does that make sense?
987654321a
Hunter
Well can you post a picture of your dart molds, so I can see what they look like?
If they are box molds, if you squeeze the sides it deforms the mold allowing the resin to travel everywhere.
If they are box molds, if you squeeze the sides it deforms the mold allowing the resin to travel everywhere.
Stormrider
Well-Known Hunter
Ill try it. its a 4 slot basic block mold. Usually I work it more, but because these were a 'cold cast' I didnt want to disturb the inside much. Ill try squeezing it to see how well that works.
The cold cast knees btw came out of the mold, Im not really happy with the adherence of the powder. But ill try another before I make a final decision.
The powder when rubbed hard, made the knees look like jangos. Silver with some black showing through in spots.
The cold cast knees btw came out of the mold, Im not really happy with the adherence of the powder. But ill try another before I make a final decision.
The powder when rubbed hard, made the knees look like jangos. Silver with some black showing through in spots.
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