General Painting Methods and Tips

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I'm posting this info for shunned. Hopefully you guys can see the pics.


shunned wrote:


... Heres two test photos for ya guys, sorry about the quality of the pics ,but I was in a hurry to leave for band practice!!
ON the Left side of your screen you can see the Clearcoated version !! As you can see the finish has dulled out to a near "Dirty" alluminum type finish that distorts the reflection about 35% more than the version on the right!
On your Right side of the screen you see the un-clearcoated version which is highly reflective and has a very polished look to it!!

I did both of these on a good coat of glass black before I sprayed on the Alclad II !
The test piece is the molded visor from my ROTJ helmet which I removed to put in the real visor! It was a perfect test piece since everyone is thinking about this paint for their helmet!! I just happened to have a piece so there ya have it!:)

Anyway, both would be good candidates for a Jango helmet however , for those who do not want to topcoat it I warn that any minor fall or scuff up against something will more than likely cause the paint to either chip or scuff!! The clear coat will protect your helmet further and not only that ,but compliment the Black rub'n buff most of you like to use!!
LMK what ya think! sincerely, shunned

Alclad%20Test1.jpg


Alclad%20test2.jpg
 
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Jango Armor Color errr, Armour Colour

I have a question...I realize that this has been covered somewhat, but before I go any further with my Jango helm.

Which is the better color to use? Alclad II chrome or Alclad II aluminum. ORRRR, the Testors Aluminum? I understand that they need to be sealed as the paint is rather brittle.

The Jango helm I recently aquired, is painted with the Alclad II Chrome, and it really looks dead on. Only thing is, when I get the armor, I do want it to match...but I suck with an airbrush. So I was considering the aerosol route. I do understand that the makers of Alclad is considering releasing the color in aerosol some time in the future.

Any help here would be great...thanks,
Shawn
 
well if you can spray paint, you can airbrush. Alcad in airbrushing is straight forward, in fact the paint is even premixed for you.
 
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I'm just worried that you will be able to see the lines from the airbrushing...then I'd have to go back...then there'd be too much paint...or not enough paint...AHHHHHH!

I suppose that's what sand paper is for though, huh?

Which Alclad II is the better one though, Aluminum or Chrome? I see there were pics, but they don't show up anymore.

After painting, does one put the "rub n' buff" on, or is that over kill?

Which kind of clear coat works the best?

Thanks for being patient, as I am still rather new and still not very confident with my abilities.

Shawn
 
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Ok, now I am pissed...big time.

I used the Alclad, let it dry about a week, sprayed the clear coat and...the friggin thing freakin cracked! :angry A few weeks of work down the damn crapper!

So anyone want to provide any suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated now.

Shawn
:angry
 
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Man that does suck!!
OK, I gotta know..
What cracked and how???
I sprayed my Helmet a few weeks ago with Alclad II and have not noticed this problem at all!
What type of helmet do you have?? I have a Resin based helmet and it is very stout after all the work I put into it bondo wise and such!! Not much Flex if any!!
The only 2 things I can think of is:
1) If this is an original DP or Dubies the material may Flex too much! Alclad is not known for NOT being flexible for only only reason, that it is a very thin based paint!! I know this info probably does you no good now, I'll try to bring up all the things I can think of to alieviate(sp?) this problem!!
2) If the surface wasn't preped good before you added your topcoat this would result in cracks and reactions! A nice fine Scotch brite pad or 4000 steelwool would do for this!!

Let us know what your problems were !!
thanks, shunned
 
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yah, describe the helmet and where it cracked. That does suck pal, I am sorry.
 
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Well, now that I am over being totally pissed. I think the problem may have to do with the base coat that I used.

I used Testors Model Masters Gloss Black, #FS17038 for this. When I first tried to apply the GB undercoat, in certain spots, the paint came out like I had added a sand mix. The first time that this happened, I passed it off that I didn't shake the can long enough and that I am doing this in my basement, which is about 60 degrees. It did take a few attempts to get a clean coat after some sessions of light sanding.

Well, after I experienced the disaster the other night, I obviously had to sand the sucker down. In doing this, I discovered that the gloss black had turned into - tar. At least that is the consistency. My guess, and it should probably have been apparent to begin with is that its was old paint. Something I wouldn't have known as I had just it up at the hobby store a few weeks ago.

Incidentally, the problem happened on the crown, the cheeks, and a bit of the back by the vents. So, now I am back to painting as I have spent most of my waking hours sanding this sucker.

Shawn
 
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Man that stinks!!:( Sorry that happened to you man !!
After reading your last post I wondered about the temp. in the room your painting in and about the drying time in between coats of the GB!
I have had what you described happen in a cold paint booth before and it wasn't pretty!! At the time I was very impatient and eager to get the project moving!!LOL:)
You are right about the Old paint theory! This will do the same thing!!
Anyhelp we can be man, post away!!
Hope all goes better for you this time around. Keep us posted!!
sincerely, shunned
 
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as a general rule, whenever I use enamels and am going to paint on top of it, I leave the base layer to dry for at least a day or two. Not hours but days.
 
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I am doing a custom mandalorian with a black/silver scheme.
I was gonna use rust-oleum chrome and black spray paint. I dont wanna screw up the paint due to touching it too much. So i also have crystal clear paint for a finisher. In the past when i have used the clear coat on the chrome, it has turned a dirty dull gray. Was i just clear coating it too soon or is there another way to protect the chrome?

Many thanks in advance.
 
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Wy wife's armor turned out the same way. But I was cool with it since I didn't want the super shiny chrome look. Honestly, I don't know of anohter way. Seeker's Jango MLC helmet turned out great. Check that thread to see. He said what he used on there.

Wes
 
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First things first, try to use a better type of paint. Automotive paint is much more effective for this type of thing. Remember you get what you pay for ESPECIALLY with paint! Metallics are basically metal flakes that are floating in lacquer. Some have more density than others. When you clear coat over it, you're re-activating the the metallic paint. That's why you need to do it in light coats, or else it ends up graying or uneven. It can be done, but you really need to take your time. Make sure you let the chrome/silver paint cure for at least a week before you clear-coat it. And most important practice & test it on a scrap piece before you do your helmet. Some clears can be funny & unpredictable (like crinkling). Hope this helps!
Art
 
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I would recommend just using a silver paint- like Krylon(I think) dull aluminum. Then you can apply rub-n-buff in silver over the top of it- gives it a real nice metal look. You do not clear coat it. You could do it under the rub-n-buff if you wanted but really no reason to. Using chrome spray paint just doesn't work very well- I've tried it before for other projects and it just sucks!
 
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Hey, cats and kittens.

I'm looking for feedback from anyone who's successfully painted one of the HandSchaub metal helmets, specifically a Jango.

Can you share how you did yours? I've never really painted anything before and could use all the tips and tricks I can get.

Thanks,
 
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Hey squirk! It just so happens that I am finishing my helmet TONIGHT!!! I will post pics and help you out. I know that SEEKER has painted a fantastic Jango as well and he has color recomendations and a mini tutorial on a thread that helped me out. Until later...
 
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I could use some tips as well. Even though it's not Fett, I have a lot of R2 parts that are aluminum. I've heard its difficult to paint. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the slight hijack.
 
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No, no. No hijack. The fact that the helmet is metal is exactly what I'm concerned about.

What do you use for primer? Self-etching? Regular primer? No primer at all?

Do you coat the Krylon or Rustoleum with anything in particular? Or is the paint durable enough without the need for a clearcoat of some kind?

What about the dome? Do you need to prep the dome with anything for solid pinstripe placement? Anything you can/should place over the pinstripes to keep them in place?

Questions, questions.....
 
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Sorry - no picture yet. I cleaned the helmet using a brillo soap pad. This will get rid of the dirt and oils. I taped off the bare metal parts and gave a coat of the 'clean metal primer' from a can. This is new/clean metal so it works well. I then paited the entire colored areas the light visor color. I let it sit for three days to make sure it was dry. I then taped off the rest and hit the dark areas. I let it sit for a few days again so to not disturp the paint. BTY I used Rust-O-leom bewcaase they had the colors I liked.

That's the hard part. The pinstripe is just hobby pinstripping that can be applied with no prep. After it is in place a put a tiny spot of super glue at the ends so it doesn't curl up. I weather it with acrylic paints using black and raw umber. The acrylic paint film will help seal the pinstriping further. The visor is a welding mask cut to size and held in using metal putty. I should have a piture up tomorrow... seriously this time :)
 
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