MR Westar mold experiment

I can hardly wait to see how this turns out Cruzer. The thought of having Hyperfirm style rubber Westars is just too sweet. (y)

I wouldn't have to worry about little kids grabbing at my blasters with a rubber set. Which would save my resin ones for troops where grabbing hands are less of an issue... or I could simply keep them for display too. ;)

Just make sure that you give us enough notice, as it takes me a week to upload funds to my Paypal. (y)
 
Well, the second side turned out just as good as the first side. The silicone was able to capture all of the details. I was wrong about the leakage...and how happy I am to be wrong this time! Tomorrow at the shop I'll be able to find out exactly what's entailed in making rubber blasters from these. After that I'll be able to calculate an approximate price I can offer these at based on materials/hardware used and labor involved.

Jango 72, how about I'll have the first few sets pulled by tomorrow...is that enough notice?:lol:

Tk7602, I even had to take out the handle to sand down the damage the sculpty clay caused, so I guess I got lucky this time.:eek:

Jango 5204, I'm really sorry about your handle. I did have to take some acetone to it and feather sand the heck out of that side due to the clay pretty much eating the paint and primer. So I'll spray them with some Dupli-Color silver to help smooth them out again for you. I'm so glad you already had plans to repaint them.(y)

BobaFettSlave_1, it didn't do anything to the aluminum finish, however, I would recommend using some Klean Klay or something else when you clay up your blasters. My Klean Klay arrived with the catalyst and I've already tested it out on a semi black spray painted surface and it didn't do any damage. Let me know if you need a source for it.(y)

TR4059, glad I could be of service.:lol:

cheers(y)

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molds are so wierd to look at.... they trick you and start looking 3D. Just throw a set in the box with the MRs ol' buddy ol' pal. pleeease with whip cream and cherry on top.
 
Thanks. The keys in the cavity of the handle occured to me at the very last minute, so I'm glad I realized something would be needed there to keep those two joining pieces aligned. Hope you see some details that might prove beneficial in your molds. Let me know if I can be any help.

Luckily, the handle made a full recovery! I may just have to borrow the other trigger so I can do both versions.;) I was also thinking of making a resin pull and modifying the trigger by widening the hole a little so regular sized fingers in gloves can fit better. We'll see. Thanks, Jango 5204.(y)

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First sets pulled by tomorrow!! :eek:

That's a little bit too soon, but I'm happy none the less! (y)

Just let me know what the financial damage is going to be so I can start scrimping my pennies. ;)
 
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Well, it's time to start selling off kidneys... or kids. Whichever brings more. Cruzer, you are the man.

In the future:

So, where'd you get your armor?

Well, the gauntlets are Cruzer, the blasters are Cruzer, the shin guards are Cruzer, the back plate is... Well, the whole thing is Cruzer!
 
Here are just some of the first pulls, which are all "bad" pulls by the way due to hollow spots, numerous bubbles, surface imperfections from improper mixing, etc. When compared to just pouring resin, the learning curve is huge when it comes to making high quality rubber items and the process is much more difficult that I had anticipated. I had all but given up at one point in time yesterday.

I decided to use these bad pulls to test different finishes. The best finish in my opinion is the Rn'B finish on the bottom gun that was rubbed right onto the rubber with no base coat of paint. The Rn'B helped to fill in and hide small surface imperfections. The handle was painted with SEM Medium Titanium, and after trying out about 4-5 different SEM colors it seemed to yield the closest resemblence to the ref. pic in the EP 2 Visual Dictionary. The brass accents are gold metallic spray paint brushed on with a small paint brush. The weathering is a combination of black followed by charcoal grey, and was applied with a small paint brush.

The middle finish comes in a close second and is a standard silver metallic paint wiped on multiple times with a rag onto a semi-flat black surface. The brass accents were applied exactly like above. The weathering was applied exactly like above.

The top blaster is the least desireable finish in my opinion because it is standard silver metallic spray painted on. To me it looks too much like the paint finish seen on a Rubies blaster, and therefore makes the barrel look like an untouched Rubies. The gold was also taped off and spray painted. I didn't bother to do any weathering on this barrel.

We took plenty of opportunities to toss around the painted blasters yesterday and they are very durable. There's something to be said about a blaster that can be tossed 30 feet into the air or about a 50 yards distance, and survive coming down on the concrete.

The only immediate wear I have seen is the paint undercoat rubbing off on the small allen head screw on the handle, so it's probably going to be best taping that off before painting the handle, or looking into placing a real allen head screw there when casting. I've already tested placing a real pin in the rear part of the barrel and it worked.

Enjoy,
Cruzer

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DUDE! For a stunt blaster those are totally useable. Nice job. I guess I know what color to shoot handles now. I like them a lot.
 
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