Cruzer Jango gauntlet run!

Size comparison pictures between MOW and Cruzer's to clear up questions about size and fit posted in the interest thread. I'll post some pictures with the suit tonight after the photographer gets home. WARNING, A LOT OF PICTURES.

Basically, the openings are close to the same size as MOW, with the body being shorter.
 
Hey guys. Dark-Side has offered to do a special run of aluminum parts for members on my run list. Dark-Side has to send me all of the hinge for your orders, so he can easily put any aluminum parts in the same box and save everyone from paying the shipping costs.

If anyone on my run list needs aluminum parts for their gauntlets, PM Dark-Side. His parts and prices can be seen here:http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/showthread.php?t=22632

There will be no shipping charges for anyone in on this special run.

Fettfan54, your order will be in with this special run.(y)

Thanks,
Cruzer
 
Hey guys. Dark-Side has offered to do a special run of aluminum parts for members on my run list. Dark-Side has to send me all of the hinge for your orders, so he can easily put any aluminum parts in the same box and save everyone from paying the shipping costs.

If anyone on my run list needs aluminum parts for their gauntlets, PM Dark-Side. His parts and prices can be seen here:http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/showthread.php?t=22632

There will be no shipping charges for anyone in on this special run.

Fettfan54, your order will be in with this special run.(y)

Thanks,
Cruzer

Thanks to both of you. Just one question though. Where can one find a Euro/Dollar exchange rate?
 
You can do an internet search for currency exchange and find a handful.
I like to use www.xe.com.
But to get a quick idea, you can multiply whatever Euro amount by 1.66 and that'll give you a very close estimate in U.S. dollars.
(y)
 
You can do an internet search for currency exchange and find a handful.
I like to use www.xe.com.
But to get a quick idea, you can multiply whatever Euro amount by 1.66 and that'll give you a very close estimate in U.S. dollars.
(y)

1,66?????:eek::eek:
Tooo much!!! meaby is 1,46 \1,48!!!!

Now I open another tread for this special run of aluminum parts so who want can add on the list.
 
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Add me to the list for the gauntlets for now, I will need the parts and rocket as well in the future but don't know I can shell all that out at once right now.

Only because of your help!!! Thanks.


No, not too late.
I'm going to cut the list off at #20.
And then do a lot of catching up this weekend after the resin arrives.
 
The list is now closed guys. I have 8 sets of parts pulled in Feather Lite resin. There was a problem with the Smooth Cast that caused it to damage the flamethrower mold, but not to the point of rendering it unusable. The two times I have used SC, it has taken some silicone with it, so I've stopped using it. I'm going to pull as many parts as I can in FL, before attempting more in SC. So far of the two, the FL is producing higher quality parts with extremely fewer air bubbles. If I can't get the SC to give me the quality results I feel you'd want, I may need to upgrade everyone to FL parts. I'll keep everyone updated on this.

As for the shells, the gel-coat and fiberglass work has to be done outside, so the weekend storm didn't allow me to work on any. If I try to work on them in the garage, the odors permiate the house and that's not good for the family. So I'll be working outside on the shells little by little as the weather permits.

I'm still waiting on the sample of electronics and hose to come in, and it'll be a few weeks till the Dark-Side hinge and parts come in, so I'm shooting for having all the orders ready to ship once they arrive.

I'll snap a few pics when there's something to show.

Let me know of any questions.(y)

Thanks,
Lorenzo
 
Thanks.
There was just some pitting in the back and along the seam lines that is going to get sanded off anyway, so the damage was insufficient. What happened is some of the resin stuck to the silicone causing it to tear off in small areas. I believed it was caused by a prior bad pull where the liquid resin permeated the silicone's pores after prolonged contact. If all else fails, I can easily make new molds for the smaller parts, so no problem. My main concern right now is the tiny air bubbles that I didn't get with my sample pull. I bought the material in gallon size so I'm wondering if smaller quanties are better when premixing.

No worries though, I'll get it figured out.(y)
 
hey lorenzo...silly question, but will you send along assembly instructions with these..not sure how much there really is to know but some may benefit from a small list of simple how to's
 
hey lorenzo...silly question, but will you send along assembly instructions with these..not sure how much there really is to know but some may benefit from a small list of simple how to's

:lol:Ok, are you sure you're ready for this? Here's a cut n' paste of a PM I sent a fellow member about a week ago who asked about the assembly I performed:

Here's exactly what tools I used for a precise build on these gauntlets. I'm sure there's always room for improvision to cut down on the number of drill bits & tools used.

Here's a list of the specific tools I used:
  1. 1/16 drill bit: Tap out punch holes in large hinge to release pin.
  2. 3/32 -6" drill bit: Clean out the inside of the hinge links of Home Depot hinge to be used for the pin closure.
  3. 3/32 drill bit: Pre-drill holes in flamethrower, missile, whipcord, and hose attachment for the set screws used to attach those parts to the shells.
  4. 1/8 drill bit: Holes for the 2 mini-darts.
  5. 11/66 drill bit: Holes in shells for set screws used to attach parts.
  6. 5/32 drill bit: Pre-drill hole for hose attachment on whipcord. Drill holes for the 4 aluminum darts.
  7. 3/16 or 7/32 drill bit: Holes for min-toggle switches.
  8. 17/64 or 9/32 drill bit: Holes for push buttons on flamethrower.
  9. 5/16 drill bit: Hole for Halo_1 LED.
  10. 21/64 drill bit: Hole for Dark-Side whipcord dart. Pre-drill holes for hose attachments on flamethrower.
  11. 3/8" drill bit: Holes for flamethrower nozzles.
  12. 1 1/8" Freud Percision Shear Forstner drill bit (#PB-008 ) to hollow out flamethrower.
  13. Reinforced Cut-off Wheel for Dremel (#426) to trim recessed areas on shells for Dark-Side hinge. General trimming around edges of shells.
  14. 60 Grit Sanding Band for Dremel (#408 ) for general trimming around edges of shells. Clean out clearance areas for toggle switches, mini darts, darts, LED, and slider switch.
  15. MultiPurpose Cutting Bit for Dremel (#561) to drill and clean out oblong hole for slider switch.
  16. 1/8-27 NPT tap: Thread pre-drill holes for hose attachments on flamethrower.
  17. 3/4" tape: Mark edge of recessed areas for Dark-Side hinge.
  18. Satellite City Special T CA glue: Glue hinge to shells.
I also used various shop tools like a cordless drill, drill press, Dremel, exacto knife, 220, 400, and 600 grit sandpaper, Krylong Grey Primer(in my opinon best available in a spray can for this kind of stuff).

:wacko Most of it is the various perfect sized drill bits to use. I'm going to do #12 for everyone, so no need for that tool. For those that aren't in a rush, I can also trim the larger hinges for the pin and hollow out the insides with the 6" long drill bit mentioned in #2. This step helps tremendously in allowing the pin to slip through easily(y)

Hope that helps explain the work that'll be involved.
 
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Some of the electronic samples came in today.

DSC07904.JPG


DSC07903.JPG
 
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