Too scared to start

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Aug 27, 2006

• #1

Hi all

i have been putting it off and putting it off, and the plain truth of the matter is i am too scared to start the silicone moulding of my scratch built bucket :facepalm

I have the silicone, the hardner, the 'thixo thingy' and the release agent. All i need to do is cover the bucket in silicone and hope all goes well. The thing i have never done his before and i am worried in case it all goes pear shaped. and this is before i attempt the fibreglassing :facepalm

someone kick me

 

R

redwingsgirl514

Active Hunter

• Aug 27, 2006

• #2

I would, but I'm 'bout in the same boat you are in. I'm looking at everything everyone else has done, and looking at the blank armor and helmets they sell, and I'm thinking, "I'm supposed to paint THAT to look like THAT?!" And I haven't started anything yet...

You're attempting fiberglass? You're braver than I am. Good luck.

 

Chewcy

Active Hunter

• Aug 27, 2006

• #3

Wow, another awesome scratchbuild, that thing looks sweet, I cant offer any advice other than maybe cast it in resin, it may be easier for a first timer?? like I said not sure as Ive never done either, but Im sure someone here will chime in.

By the way I havent forgotten abou your neck seal

Paul

 

J

Jimmy BufFETT

Well-Known Hunter

• Aug 27, 2006

• #4

Ronin677 said:

someone kick me

Click to expand...

KICK!!!

Ha ha ha ... just have confidence. But most importantly, take your time!

 

superjedi

Sr Hunter

• Aug 27, 2006

• #5

Jon,
Just mold and cast a copy of the helmet first.
That way, in case something goes wrong with the mold, you'll have the copy! Oh. . . wait--

Is there anything you can practice with?
Some kind of small item you could make a copy of?

 

mandalore697

Active Hunter

• Aug 28, 2006

• #6

Jon,

Trust me it really isn't all that bad! The silicone is so flexible that pulling it off is easy. Are you thinking of going for a one piece mold? A one piece is probably the best way of doing it. Here is what I would suggest:

1. Layer the silicone qute thinly all over the helmet using the thickening agent and allow to cure.

2. Add a second coat of silicone to thicken the mold. I would probably recommend making your mold 15-20mm thick.

3. Once the silicone has cured apply a jacket around it so that mold will keep its shape. I usually make a 2 or 3 piece fibreglass jacket. In this case a 2 piece would be best, with a join going from front to back in the middle. See the pic below.

4. Once the FG has cured you can take apart the 2 side and then peel off the jacket. You can then put the mold back in the jacket and secure the two halves with bolts.

Hows that for a kick up the backside?

If I can help in anyway bud just give me a shout!

Good luck

Dan

 

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Aug 28, 2006

• #7

thanks guys

pm's sent accordingly.

:cheers

 

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #8

Well i finally started. I have been given lots of really good advice and have taken bits from everyone and devised what i believe is right for this situation.

Terminal Fettler - thanks for your tips mate. I could not go for an attached recessed collar in the end due to the way i have constructed my bucket so had to compromised. Thanks anyways, just thought i'd explain as the pics make it look as though i am doing the collar thing slightly strange

 

GCNgamer128

Sr Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #9

Bah, this is making me want to scratch build my own bucket...j;askjd;fas.

Next week if I have helmet pieces coming out of the CNC laser, it's your fault

 

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #10

GCNgamer128 said:

Bah, this is making me want to scratch build my own bucket...j;askjd;fas.

Next week if I have helmet pieces coming out of the CNC laser, it's your fault

Click to expand...

Thats right, blame me. Everyone else does

i'd love to see the pieces once you have them finished.

how does the CNC laser process work?

 

GCNgamer128

Sr Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #11

Ronin677 said:

Thats right, blame me. Everyone else does

i'd love to see the pieces once you have them finished.

how does the CNC laser process work?

Click to expand...

You just slide the sheet of plastic into the laser, open up the drawing, print it 1:1, and it moves like a pencil over paper with a lightsaber

I'm really not satisfied with any of the helmets I've had over the years... either buy a $300 helmet from BM or MS, or build my own that will be a GCN It would also be larger than the normal DP buckets which I've been running into.

 

mandalore697

Active Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #12

Making a great start there Jon! I can't wait to see the finished mold and the first cast.

Keep up the good work

 

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #13

The reason for building my own bucket was that when i first started on it (6 years ago, yes i am very slow) i didn't realise that you could buy anything other than DP's. I really didn't want a DP so i started to scratch build. It was only meant to be the bucket at first then suddenly i have ended up up the entire costume :facepalm

if i was in the same boat then as i am now i would probably go for a Bobamaker bucket (screen accurate and a lot less hassle )

 

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #14

Hi guys

need some advise. As you can see i have just applied the first coat of silicone to my bucket. I have followed the manufacturers instructions of applying 5ml of 'catalyst' to 100g of silicone. it should have cured within 12 hours. Well i am now 24 hrs later and it is still wet. any advise?

i knew it would go wrong :cry

 

terminal fettler

Active Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #15

when you say its wet, is it tacky?

 

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #16

terminal fettler said:

when you say its wet, is it tacky?

Click to expand...

its the consistancy of toffee that hasn't quite set. Not runny and yet not solid, somewhere in between, but yes very tacky.

i am not sure if it is starting to set (but slowly) , it seems to be slightly firmer than it was a few hours ago.

:facepalm

 

mandalore697

Active Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #17

I would leave it another 24 hours, it looks like you may need to add more catalyst next time round.

 

terminal fettler

Active Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #18

Ronin677 said:

its the consistancy of toffee that hasn't quite set. Not runny and yet not solid, somewhere in between, but yes very tacky.

i am not sure if it is starting to set (but slowly) , it seems to be slightly firmer than it was a few hours ago.

:facepalm

Click to expand...

As mentioned above, more catalyst maybe an idea, warmer conditions affect cure times also. You dont want too quick a cure time as its this that determines picking up the fine surface details; also a slightly tacky surface between layers is advisable to insure a good adhesion of the silicone...

 

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Sep 5, 2006

• #19

Cheers Dan, cheers TF

:cheers

 

Ronin677

Well-Known Hunter

• Sep 6, 2006

• #20

Well its about 40hrs after applying the first coat and it has reached the consistancy of a very, very thick treacle. So i believe it is setting (albiet very slowly). I have spoken to the supplier and he agrees that it should have set already but it sounds like it will set soon. fingers crossed.

Hopefully i will be able to apply the second thin coat this weekend. i will add a little more catalyst this time and also use a pigment to ensure an even mix. I am taken no prisoners this time

i will keep you all (anyone interested that is ) updated as the process developes.