best method of weathering

morpheus1977

Active Hunter
so my bucket is primed all I have to do is go out and by the colored paints a bid decision in this will be weathering I plan on using a black(main bucket) and gray/silver(visor ear pieces) color scheme. How I plan on doing this is.
1 spray the visor and ear pieces black and the bucket silver
2 tape of areas with riped tape for battle damage and weathering
3 reapaint the visor and ear pieces gray and the main bucket black (possibly gloss black)
4 remove the tape to show the weathering and battle damage
if any body else knows a better method please let me know...
 
Instead of ripped taped you could try some masking fluid. You can paint out it out in any shape you want. Not so limiting as strips of tape, which in the end after you pull them off might just look like...strips of tape.
 
well when I say strips of tape I will tear them in such a way they wont look like strips they will have jaged edges they just wont be straight edges. BTW I have never heard of masking fluid how does that work?
 
With masking fluid, you have alot more control over the shape and size of the scratch. You just brush it on in whatever way you need it to look like, spray on the next coat, wait for it to dry, then wash off the helmet so the fluid comes off leaving silver scratches. Also, instead of masking fluid, you could use mustard or toothpaste the same way.
 
Yea, depending on the under coat go with toothpaste. Mustard will stain white paint yellow.

In case anyone wanted to use this method on a clone helmet, or similar.
 
Yeah, I'll be using toothpaste, mostly because I'd rather smell a minty freshness than old mustard while brushing it on and washing it off. :lol:
 
well I started my bucket I got the primer on yesterday and I just did the visor outline and details as soon as it dries I will be doing the top part of the "cheeks"(dont know the actual name) in a pewter gray and then the rest will be in a gloss black.
helmet.gif
 
Looking good.

But before you proceed any further, I would recommend reinforcing the back base of your helmet with a strip of 3/4" wide aluminum stock so you can give you helmet a decent shape and to give it some sturdiness so any movement of the helmet doesn't start cracking your new paint job.

Just my opinion but I'd hate to see your new paint job runined because the helmet starts bending too much. Here's a pic showing how I reinforced a Rubies. You can use some 2 part epoxy Platic Welder from walmart as your adhesive since it's somewhat flexible and will give a little with your helmet.


Cruzer

DSC01131.JPG
 
I've learned first hand that the blue tape, for lack of a better word, sucks. Tried weathering with it but when I got it off it also took paint off leaving an extremely ugly texture underneath. Since then what I've done is paint 3 chrome layers, then paint my chosen color over it and let the drip of the paint weather itself, I've gotten great looking results.
 
I almost lost my ESB paintjob on my bucket because the blue tape just stripped off the coat underneith. I don't think I sanded it perfectly though.
 
I've tried a number of methods over the years and found the following to have worked for me:

1) If you want the chipped effect, primer, chrome, mustard/toothpaste and then paint. Wait until the paint is semi-dry and then pyut the armor under cold water and rub the mustard areas with your finger. The paint will peel back as the mustard dissolves and you'll get nice ridges.

2) Dual layer weathering looks the most natural. (like Boba's chest armor) The first layer I use is usually flat grey to indicate a primer and then silver to show the base metal. The Boba armor uses that zinc chromate to represent the primer.

3) Topical weathering where the primer and silver are applied on top of the top paint colors can actually look pretty good as long as you adhere to #2.

4) With the suit I'm currently working on, I may actually kick it around the back alley a little. The armor will be aluminum or pewter colored so I don't want to show a primer since it's supposed to be base metal anyway.
 
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