Sewing With Zam Fabric

Glad it was of some help. Glue... oh wow, yeah I can relate. Nice that the fabric is backed with the knit I'm sure it is alot more comfortable that way. I have a latex shirt I made for a tomb raider costume and it does not breath at all. Good luck girls and I'd love to see the results!!
 
Glad it was of some help. Glue... oh wow, yeah I can relate. Nice that the fabric is backed with the knit I'm sure it is alot more comfortable that way. I have a latex shirt I made for a tomb raider costume and it does not breath at all. Good luck girls and I'd love to see the results!!

Aaah the fabric of our lives! Nothing like getting glimpes of a Vixens threads!

Very nice indeed my princess, Very nice!
 
Man, I deleted my last post. Someone suggested for those trying out patterns, before you get to the tricot fabric, to use stretch denim as your muslin test. That way you can get started on patterning. Um... pic of my welted seam .. let's see... See how she had a welt seam and she stopped short to avoid where the 4 pieces would come together, and the real pants were top stitched and there is a different 1/8" seam on the inner thigh in Kaydee's shot 17?
Innerthighweltrez2237.jpg


Maulmaus also pointed out at FIDM when we were at the hotel that my seamstress put the seam allowances on the wrong side of the welt, that's why my inner thigh Ll Ll welts look indented rather than bulge out. Another patterning difference.
 
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The Sniffer has found a new Home. Perhaps he stray away from the Sarlaac Pitt and reside among the Zam croud!

Jokes set aside though!

Zam! You did a phenominal job with the trousers. Very good craftsmanship indeed!
 
Sniff, my seamstress did that~ I only did the button holes for the suspenders and the snap for the leg greeblie. I did help with the patterning, but other than that, she's the one who really made the final pattern and the sewing. I can't take credit for that.
 
I cant sew, ive never sewn anything in my life. Once i knitted a brown hat from wool but that doesnt count LOL

The denim suggestion for making the patterns and practicing on. The stretch denim i found is 9oz (whatever that means! lol) Is this the right type of weight for the denim because i REALLY need to practice lol
 
See, I don't know how to sew all that well either. What I did sew (on neoprene) on my pants was button holes (by hand) and a test welt seam on some neoprene with my sewing machine. Someone suggested stretch denim because it has some stretch like the tricot and, denim is kinda thick like the neoprene. It may not have 4 way stretch, but is at least something that is closer to the real thing than any other "cheaper test fabric". I know it would not be as cheap as muslin .99/yard, but is at least similar in 2 respects, it stretches, and is thicker than plain cotton, lycra, nylon, whatever. Not nappy like wool though. The first thing I would do, is really rough draft a pattern in .99/yard muslin. Then, use the denim as your Final before using it on your neoprene. Or, if you can get enough test stretch denim, then you won't have to tweak your patterning as much as you would the muslin. Several stitches you want to consider practicing, are especially your welt seam and serging stitch, and a top stitch straight. (Test on muslin or denim first) Get a feel for your sewing machine and what it can handle, then test a piece of the denim. It's best to use an industrial machine. And be aware, if your home machine can't handle denim, then it can't handle the neoprene. Some machines just don't have the power. 9 oz per yard of weight I believe that is what you mean. See, leather works similarly, except, it is a solid density rather than porous fabric materials, therefore, you can actually calculate how many mm/inches thick leather is. Fabrics that are porous have too much give to give an actual thickness are measured by weight only. You can asume that the higher oz per yard means more dense material, but won't be able to measure the "thickness."

The only sewing I've done since those 2 things on zam, was a christmas stocking for my son, and a tie for my son. So I am very close to sewing newbdom as most newbs.
 
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If the machine can handle the neoprene then i will try to do it myself. I cant find anyone else that might be able to sew it for me in the UK
 
Okay... hmm...

Practice, practice and more practice. Practice straight seams. Practice using straght stitches and zig-zags. Then go on to learn a few of the more difficult seams. Borrow or buy a book on sewing (Vogue has a great one) there are several available.

Go look for some easy/simple patterns that are similar to the Zam patterns you'll need (t-shirt pattern for example) and just start practicing with inexpensive fabric (remnants are great for that).

Honestly, just practicing is the best way to learn it. Buy good quality tools like scissors (don't skimp there - trust me!) and a good seam ripper (You'll need it) Good pins and needles (of course!) and marking tools!

Did you plan on altering existing patterns or making your own? (I think you said on another thread, but I don't remember off hand).
 
Did you plan on altering existing patterns or making your own? (I think you said on another thread, but I don't remember off hand).

Thank you so much for all the advice!! I will need all the help i can get lol!

I would like to do whatever is easier but not at the expense of it being inaccurate. I thought making a pattern would work out better but im not sure hehe.
 
It's easier to modify an existing pattern, rather than drafting one on your own. You can also make a pattern off of existing clothes, if there is something you own that will work for Zam for example.

One thing to remember when using patterns - American patterns include the seam allowances (You cut the fabric directly along the lines of the tissue pattern and sew at the seam allowance given in the directions - altering the pattern accordingly.). European patterns like Neue Mode do NOT include the seam allowances, you need to mark the fabric where the "seams" are on the tissue and then decide how much seam allowance you want for each seam, then cut the fabric. Because I'm American and learned the "American" way, I find it very difficult to use European patterns.

I did recently find a Vogue pattern that with some alterations might work for the pants ( Very Easy Vogue V8366 ) It's made for stretch fabric including stretch denim and has a back zipper (I know, not cannon, but with the skirt, no one's gonna see!). The waist needs to be changed as well, but the seams are all in the right places. I'll have to try the pattern with some stretch denim to see how it works - but it is one possibility. :)
 
I would allow certain seam allowances to be 1" because of the welt seams. You want enough to make sure that it overlaps correctly.
 
What does 75/11 HS with the Needle refer to? Ive seen some stretch ball point needles in 80/11 but i havent seen any 75/11 yet. I wondered what the differance was?

Ooooh another question too sorry, there seem to be a lot of versions of the Vogue sewing book. There is a metric one and all sorts of other various titles - im not sure which is the one to go for

Edit: Found some 75/11 now and got 2 packs of 5 to start with!!!
 
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I dunno... I hadn't thought of that! ;) I've always used colored thread matching/darker than what the fabric is. It's worth a shot to see which works better though. I'm sure I've got some around here someplace....
 
I have some maroon thread ive seen but i have no idea how much i need to sew the whole thing. I dont want to get too little as its end of line stuff LOL
 
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