rubbies bucket

Don't have pics but you'll need to replace the lense out of that. Cut the whole lense area out and replace it with a green face sheid used for welding.

I use this HF4178
 
Some people have used metal rings in the back to reinforce it and keep the sides flared out. Others have used fiberglass on the inside.
Search the forum for Rubies helmets. You will find many people have experimented with them and made them look fantastic.

Lots of pics too.

 
I haven't done that yet, but you may be able to line the inside with some strips of Sintra and use a good glue to hold it. Check around in the forum if there has been other post.

lasruin said:
cheers thought that would have to happen. is there any way to reinforce the bucket
 
ah rubies, or in the helmet world, known as "omg no way this is going to work" but.. it does.. here man heres my pics of mine, this was my first ever re construction/build attempt and it came out ok. If you want more help i can round up more pics, there on CD. I have from arrival day to every step i did to it to make it work. I can give help too. The 2 helmet picture is ESB movie shot, and my helmet on my head when it arrived. notice the major deformities. The white helmet is the same one, reshaped, primed, and i believe Fiberglassed. so yea. it can be done, if you know how and want to do it.

Picture 026.jpg


Helm_Prim_fiberblass.jpg


hahahaa.JPG
 
thought id detail it some. first off i went to wal mart and bought 2 metal hoops from the craft area, like 84 cents each, you want the big ones.

I cut a hoop to reinforce the back to make it round, and straighted 2 smaller pieces for the cheek areas, so they would go flat. I reshaped whith a single electric burner and a large pot of water (crank it up and try to make it boil) you want a pot big enough to submerge most of the helmet, if not all of it.

Reshaping took many tries, i screwed up a lot, but you can always reshape a reshape. I cut the hole in the T to let the water out, had a flat top and i filled it with boiling water, upside down, and let the weight of the water make it rounded. (i would suggest cutting lower on the T, closer to the teeth, for more water) held it upside down til the water was chilled (i suggest making a way to hang it.. my arms were tired lol) and it took well.

after getting a better idea of how it moved and everything, I used a plastic 2 part epoxy (like 3 bucks) to weld the metal to the helmet (i used almost all of it, its a great welding agent and very strong), holding in place til it dried (about 5 mins) did this slowly so it would be ok, after its in you can still bend the hoop and helmet if its not perfect, makes it nice to reshape.

now the fun part, buy a gallon of fiberglass resin and some fiber glass matting, you can get those inautomotive (i went to a auto supply for the resin, it was cheaper by the gallon, 30 bucks for a gallon or 12 bucks for a lot less) if youve never worked with this junk, well niether did i! lol I bought some cheap bowls at wal mart (4 for 3 bucks, various sizes) and read all the instructions.

mixing the first batch (god dont forget gloves, nice thick rubber/latex ones, the fiberglass gets sharp when thin and dry) its messy so do this someplace you cant make a mess, and some wont ever clean up without another chemical (i forget its name.. its in the paint section.... gerrr) also use in WELL WELLL WELL ventelated area.

mix up a small bowl full, using the proper mixing on the instructions (yes.. measure it) it should be syrupy and sticky as hell. make sure before you add hardener you have PRE CUT 2x2 inch cuts of matting, some smaller, some bigger.

you want to paint brush on the fiberglass (after mixing the hardener in it) onto the strips so there kinda soaked, but not dripping, then you apply these to the inside of the helmet, VERY THIN (so your head will still fit) but still cover it. you ahve to work fast, the thin fiberglass will dry pretty quickly, dont worry if parts stick out or into the visor area, you can cut them out and sand em down later.

just "wall paper" the inside with very thin amounts of it, over the metal, when you get to it, start in one area, I dont suggest the middle buttom dome area, but a side, , then the sides around it and fill it in then the tip dome, reason, fiberglass will accumulate and begin to seep down into the middle dome, if it does and you apply more, it can get very thick down there, making it harder to fit your head in.

after you line the whole thing, i lightly brushed more fiberglass on top, and turned the helmet right side up to drip down and dry like that, making sure it stayed up right all night and most the next day. Itll dry according to tempeture and moisture, heat helps it, moisture hurts it.

I live in missouri and it was mildly warm and very humid that day, it took all night. when its done it still may be "sticky" to the touch, use something like baby powder and powder it down, the sticky will go away, or, do like i did, sand the fiberglass in areasy you need to, and use the fiberglass dust to powder it. ALWAYS WEAR A MASK GLOVES AND OTHER PROPER SAFETY GEAR!


K. I think I covered most of it.


sheesh i wrote a book, and it seems like a ton of work, but i did it in like 9 hours, including time to buy stuff (make a list of what youll need, go to walmart or a like store, buy it) total cost of helmet, including the original and paint and everything i used, with the 5 days of work (painting) was i believe 60 bucks. ( i didnt have bondo or fiberglass resin, or mats, so everything was bought) I still have enough matting and bondo and fiberglass do do about 2 more helmets though, so it was worth it.


also, here this has my pics and stuff, the site still hosts it.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/showthread.php?t=4913&highlight=kissker
 
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My Rubies Bucket....

I used an 1/8" piece of flat steel stock to hold the flair. The top is not too bad, so i did not mess with shaping the top. I have a bobamaker T-visor, I have custom cut vinyl decals, and the paint job was a layered technique with the color scheme posted in this forum utilizing the mustard technique (also mentioned in this forum). I have a hard hat liner epoxyed in side and 2 mini computer fans wired to one switch.

mybucket8ah.th.jpg


mybucket21hx.th.jpg


mybucket36tj.th.jpg


mybucket47xz.th.jpg
 
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Yes, I have a Rubies (Jango), but after all the BS and hard times I am having with it, I will be making another Boba out of it. As far as two fans on one switch, I had this done for a brief period of time with my DP 95, however, space was an issue.
 
bneally said:
My Rubies Bucket....

I used an 1/8" piece of flat steel stock to hold the flair. The top is not too bad, so i did not mess with shaping the top. I have a bobamaker T-visor, I have custom cut vinyl decals, and the paint job was a layered technique with the color scheme posted in this forum utilizing the mustard technique (also mentioned in this forum). I have a hard hat liner epoxyed in side and 2 mini computer fans wired to one switch.

The 1/8" stock. Where inside do you have it? I have the hoop, but I am thinking of doing something to the cheeks to keep them straight.
 
Yeah, I used the 1/8" flat stock because it is thin enough to shape just by hand bending, but it is also very strong and will easily hold the vinyl in place. I first shaped the steel to the proper U shape. The trick is to then mount the middle of the U shaped steel at the back of the helmet (I used lots of epoxy for all of this, you need to look for the plastic weld kind as it is the best that adheres to the vinyl and it is very strong). Once you have it mounted to the rear, you then just push the outer edges up into the flair of the mask until you get the shape you need (This, of course, will depend greatly on the length of your cut, so keep that in mind. You may even want to use a paper strip and use it in the mask as a guide, then lay it flat on your metal and cut it to that length). Just a last word of caution, be careful the vinyl does not "bulge" at the points where the steel is pushing the mask out. That is how I got the flair in my Rubies. Hope this helps.

insideofhelmet3di.th.jpg
 
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