Repaint my Boba Maker VX

[Irongladiator]

Hello Fellow Fett's
This winter I'm gonna attempt a re-paint of my Boba Maker VX Helmet. And wondered how folks go about removing paint from their helmets? I used a combination of Tamiya Acrylics, Vallejo Acrylics and Humbrol Enamel-Based paints. I'm not overly concerned about price - so if there is something I need to buy, that shouldn't be a problem, just most effective way of getting paint removed from this fiberglass helmet and get me back to a clean slate again.

Thanks in advance for any intel given on this topic.

Thanks,
-Iron

 

[BudaFett]

I've been told acetone would do the job but I would reach out to Boba Maker and see what he suggests as materials react to differently.

 

[cbrant]

I personally would not bother removing the paint in it's entirety. If you put acetone on it, it'll just end up messier with paint sloughing and not coming off entirely. If it has any resin parts (ears), the acetone will melt them if you use too much.

My recommendation would be to use some 400 grit sand paper and hand-sand the whole helmet removing any paint lines or edges that you can feel with your finger. Start with a dry run, then redo it in your sink with water and wet-sand. You just want what's there to be very smooth. Then hit it with a nicer primer, preferably automobile primer (not Rustoleum or Krylon). Give the whole thing a look-over for any defects or obvious paint edges. If none, I'd let it cure for a week or so before applying any new paint, just to be safe. I would hesitate to use any other rattle cans on it, for fear of paint reactions, but you should be fine with airbrush acrylics.

If you airbrushed it the first time, your paint layers will likely be pretty easy to smooth out/sand through. Airbrush lays it on pretty thinly. Though, you don't need to burn away everything - it's really not necessary, so long as it's smooth.

You can also hit that primer with a wet-sand in 400 grit to get everything ultra-smooth.

Source: Have painted and effed up numerous helmets.

 

[Irongladiator]

Thanks BudaFett
Was thinking the same. Reading some of the opinions on the RPF, lots of people say that Brake Fluid is the way to go (Not to be confused with Brake Cleaner) But yeah, a quick message to Boba Maker I think is also in order.

Hi cbrant
Also some great suggestions, thanks!

Best,
-Iron

 

[Builder]

Sand it. A water base and enamel combination would probably be a liquid mess.
I've removed enamel with acetone with success but sanding gives you the most control.
Protect your breathing either way. Good luck.

 

[sutt_hero_rotj]

I did this once. I did use acetone and it def was messy. It took a great deal of elbow grease and time. Turned out well in the end,

 

[AlphaCloneFett]

I personally would not bother removing the paint in it's entirety. If you put acetone on it, it'll just end up messier with paint sloughing and not coming off entirely. If it has any resin parts (ears), the acetone will melt them if you use too much.

My recommendation would be to use some 400 grit sand paper and hand-sand the whole helmet removing any paint lines or edges that you can feel with your finger. Start with a dry run, then redo it in your sink with water and wet-sand. You just want what's there to be very smooth. Then hit it with a nicer primer, preferably automobile primer (not Rustoleum or Krylon). Give the whole thing a look-over for any defects or obvious paint edges. If none, I'd let it cure for a week or so before applying any new paint, just to be safe. I would hesitate to use any other rattle cans on it, for fear of paint reactions, but you should be fine with airbrush acrylics.

If you airbrushed it the first time, your paint layers will likely be pretty easy to smooth out/sand through. Airbrush lays it on pretty thinly. Though, you don't need to burn away everything - it's really not necessary, so long as it's smooth.

You can also hit that primer with a wet-sand in 400 grit to get everything ultra-smooth.

Source: Have painted and effed up numerous helmets.

this is the way to go