BOBF: Boba Costume Color Palette & Painting guide

[Rook 3]

I see a LOT of questions regarding what colors to use on the Book Of Boba Fett Daimyo costume, so I'm creating this guide to help everyone now and in the future who wants to do it right.

This will be an evolving document and will be updated if something is inaccurate or the early revisions of the CRL change.
CRL is available here:

I'll include links to the available paint styles if available.

I've only, barely started, so here's what I have so far...

General Painting notes:
Paint on the Boba Daimyo suit is applied in at least 5-6 layers.

1. Base is the texture layer.
2. Second is the silver "metal" layer.
3. Third is a Grey "primer" layer. This can be seen in screen caps.
4. Fourth is the top coat of the primary color (Green/Red/Yellow/etc.)
5. Fifth is the weathering layer, typically a blackwash and/or "dirt" wash, depending on how weathered you want your suit.

Paint List Editorial Notes

Please Keep in mind these are suggestions to the community and from the community. Until such time as the CRL is finalized,
this should be a "close enough" guide. Do NOT take it as law. If you buy Storm Green and a week/month/year later the CRL states it has to be Italian Olive or Muppet Frog Green, please keep in mind that things change, but we'll do our best to keep this as accurate as possible.

For the FULL CRL with additional paint detail information please check the CRL here:

Bounty Hunter's Guild Development BOBF CRL

According to the current CRL:

• Color palette is intended for reference in building, and will only be used in exacting measurement by Detachment for Infamous Level approval. A Basic level approval is only required to be similar, not exact.

Paint Shopping List:

• VHT SP201 Wrinkle Plus Black Coating Can - 11oz - This is the textured base coat. Applied to Helmet (not the ears though), chest/back armor, main jetpack body but NOT rocket cone or tube caps on top and bottom.
• Rustoleum Camouflage Olive Green (Left ear)
• Montana Black Storm (Green) - Chest/AB/Back armor

Helmet Color Guide

Rangefinder top, ears and keyslots do NOT have the texture applied.

• Mandibles, Headband, Keyslot: Dark Red/Burgundy
• Upper Cheeks: Black (Satin?)
• Dome/Lower cheeks: Dark moss green
• Back Panels: Darker Green
• Ears: Right (as worn) with rangefinder is a Tan color, Left (as worn) is Olive Green color.
• "Turn Signal" Arrows: Right (as worn) is red, the Left (as worn) is dark blue.
• Rangefinder top: Black
• 18 Killstripes: Burnt orange color.

 

[Rook 3]

Collar, Diamond, Chest-ABs-Back Armor

Dark Moss Green
There are several "Moss Green" paints available, but I only found one or 2 "Dark Moss" paints.

Dark Moss Green Y (1967) for Ford

Most paints will appear darker after the black/dirt wash treatments are applied.

 

[Rook 3]

Knee/Shoulder Armor/Vambrace-gauntlets

Knees: Yellow, grey (knee dart recessed area)
Shoulder: Yellow. If under spacer is used, that part is black.
Vambrace: Dark red (main shell)

 

[Rook 3]

Jetpack

Moss Green, Royal Blue, Dark Red, Yellow

To be completed.

 

[DarthVader1]

The base green for both the helmet and the jetpack is the same. The ears are completely different colors and don't have texture, especially the left ear panel, which is a lighter green color (I used Rustoleum Camouflage Olive Green), and looked the closest to the tan color as the original OT helmet was (Hembrol), which I ended up with Tamiya Wooden Deck Tan, TS-68.
Now about the mandibles, they're not exactly flat black, but they have a tint in color depending on the scene, some look like a really dark greenish blue, and some like a really dark greenish grey.

 

[Rook 3]

Thanks! I'm planning on putting both "close enough for Imperial work" and "we think this is screen accurate" options on the list. All suggestions appreciated!

It's funny how similar paint names can be completely wrong. For example, you mentioned Rustoleum Camouflage Olive Green but if a person bought Olive Drab that would TOTALLY be the wrong color. IT's funny when photographed, Olive Drab appears actually Grey in color. Made that mistake myself once.

 

[Rook 3]

The CRL states that the helmet is Dark Moss with a "darker green" on the lower back. Do we have any idea what this darker green is?

 

[DarthVader1]

I have no clue, I will have to find out myself.
Based on a similar color from the OT helmet, I got a Tamiya spray paint for that color close to the original but it is gloss (Racing Green, PS-22).

 

[alexeratops]

When you're doing a blackwash or dirtwash on something like the jetpack, for example, do you just brush over the entire thing? Or should I just pick certain spots to hit?

I've got a foam jetpack that I'm painting up myself and I wanted to do the blackwash so it doesn't look too plastic-y.

 

[Rook 3]

"When I've done blackwash..."

Well, there's two schools of thought. One, is to use a small sprayer/water bottle and mix in some black paint and lightly spray it onto the item. The water will settle into any "low" areas and accent the details.

The way "I" have done it in the past on other armor projects (Aliens USCM/Halo ODST) is use a wet paper towel. Dab some black paint on the towel, fold the wet towel over to spread it out, then open back up and rub it all over the item, (into the crevasse and details) then use a terry cloth shop towel (you can get them like 10 for $5 at Walmart) to wipe off most of the paint. It will darken down the surface paint a bit. It wouldn't hurt to also do a clear coat before you do the blackwash to lock in your base paint.

Test either technique on a test piece or small armor piece (shoulder bell or knee pad) first to see how it works for you.

Black/dirt washes are designed to "fill in" recessed angles, like if you were to be out, working in real life. Leave anything outside for a day and see how the dust/pollen collects on the surface. High points will gather less "dirt" than lower points. Just like metal "wear" with show on sharp edges more often than on flat surfaces.

*Personal opinion* A lot of people fail on weathering because they add too much weathering, especially on flat surfaces. Good weathering will show (in the case of Boba...) "metal" where the item has scraped against another item. So places like the edges of gauntlet details, or rocket pack of armor pieces would show wear more than a recessed groove underneath the scope on a blaster. High points get more wear, low points get more dirt/wash.