thanks alot mate.
thanks alot mate.
current progree today.Problem with the dome area.Sprayed primer and gloss white to see how it would look.
nd help lads..the paint does not have the plasticy paint i want?why?
To get the "plasticy" look, you need to keep working your surfaces, work and work and work. Get your bondo on smoothly and take it back with a heavy grit, then bondo again and repeat, keep working untill you have a smooth surface and work your way up to finer grits. What might be a really good idea for you to try, could be to buy one of the hasbro kids helmets and practice using bondo and sanding on it. Pepakura is not a good way to learn prop making. There is a misconception that it's a good starting point for people when in reality it's actually quite an advanced model making tool. You need quite a wide knowledge base to get a professional result from it. You could liken it to airplanes, a lump of clay is like a Cessna, a great training tool and perfect starting point and, in the hands of a pro it can do wonderful things. Pepaakura is like the space shuttle, it looks like a plane but, really it's nothing like one, it's an experimental aircraft, if something goes wrong, no one walks away, you're left with a crater. My point is, with pep you're working a ridged surface, if you structure is out by a tiny bit, the whole thing is ruined, it will never look good. You can sand all you like but you'll just be polishing a turd. Clay is far more forgiving. You can keep going back to base structure and altering it without too much drama.
I hope that helps
Last edited by nzjedi; Jul 22, 2009 at 8:02 AM.
Everything Tim said above is right. I'll also add that patience is key when working on a helmet. It doesnt happen overnight or even in a few days. It takes weeks. You work on it, one section at a time making sure that everything is as symmetrical as you can get it. I think you jumped the gun when you painted it white. What you need to do is get yourself a good fast drying filler primmer and that will show you areas that need fixing.
Remember, patience is key. Take it slow.
They're right bro.
My Mando lid(for my custom) is probably one of the more straght forward lids to scratchbuild and that took a about two months all in to get the way I wanted it.
The key is indeed patience and also perseverance(sp?). It's easy to get frustrated particularly with your first build as there's a long period where you feel like you're getting nowhere. It can be hard to keep going when you're getting fed up of sanding but then before you know it, you get some primer on it and you can see just how much progress you've made.
Keep at it.
Man, what a mouthfull of advice.Really appriciate this guys,thanks.
Nothing worth doing, ever comes easy.
bondo seems preety expensize at a low amount...any1 no any cheap large bondo uk
Haldfords. U-POL EasySand. I think it's around 17.99 and you get a big tin. I managed to do some armor and two helmets with it.
mine was a small tiny can which didn't last be half a helmet.Thks for the advice mate
That's crazy! I don't think it's that bad here but the smaller cans are overpriced.
wow! nice work!
'nice work'??-thats a first.Thanks alot mate .$12.00 dollars ,so thats 6.00 quid.Thats preety cheap.Isn't there any bondo for a cheap price,cause imagine you owned a garage and was fixing up a car with dents (its a good car),and buying bondo for its body,it would cost you the world.There must be a cheap supplier somewhere.
''all clones sound like brits,even when they don't''
Last edited by Trooper937; Jul 24, 2009 at 12:06 PM.
Is that all you spent Brian? That lid has gone through so many changes I'd have thought the original cost you well over $500 to make?
Yeah, building your own is not cheap bro. In fact, I'd say it can be cheaper to be one ready made in some cases.
stormtrooper guy,was your helmet a conversion or a scratch-build?I didn't know moulding costed that much?
That makes more sense.
i started with a hasbro. filled the seams, fixed the visor, and made a mold of it.
then i took one of the castings and made a closer-to-accurate attack of the clones helmet out of that.
another casting was made into toon v1. i then reshaped the toon v1 and made the toon v2. the toon v2 was further refined into the toon v3.
overall, from the day i bought that first hasbro i've sunken probably a couple thousand into the project.
silicone is very expensive. it's around $180 US for the stuff i use, then another $25 or so for the material to make the mold jacket.
that makes sense,but what do the guys who sell armour on ebay use to make copies,silicon?
Have hand-sanded the bottom section(near the mouth) to try and see if all you guys were right.The answer was Yes.patience.The area is starting to appear shinier.But if i wanted a copy of it,i would have to make my own mould?
Just a size comparason for my first attempt which didn't go very well to skips brilliant one.Thanks again .The design on the smaller one was a test run for commander fox,one of my fav clones.The paint was only watercolour as it washes away easily.