Discussion on Darktrooper Progress Thread 8MAR2011: Getting back to it within the Star Wars Costumes forum, part of the Star Wars Universe category; Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes starting to look really good tuba.
:oOriginally Posted by ilikebmxbikes
Thank you. Although I could have *potentially* done a decent job on that, I know it would have just become another unfinished project. Besides, you did an outstanding job on it. By far exceeded what I know I could have done.
Now Ive hit the hard part-getting everything symetrical. Although I am using the helmet pep as a base for everything, the right side (from the front), is slightly indented more the the left side. Aside from having to fill that to make it even with the left, its getting the details and such.
LOL It's harder for the face, but I feel the back will be a bit more forgiving. I worked on it a bit, started to form the right side; eye, depth variences and the "overlapping" tube portion. *May* post pics later
-TC
I hope!
lol Later today I will. Just gotta fix up the right side a bit more. Just hard cause, I have the left side pretty much exactly how I want it, but now I have to do exactly that, but only oppositeI hope!
So get this. All this time, I thought that when I built the pep helmet base, that I accidentally warped the right side face (from the front) It's *lower* then the left, in that the grin angles down more, and at the point of where the tip of the grin meets the tube portion, it's indented in more then the left. Like I said, I thought this was a mistake that I had made, and it's frustrating.
Well, it actually turns out that the actual 3d model is warped, therefore, this imperfection is technically accurate. Im not a 3d renderer by any means, but you'd think that they'd be able to make a perfectly symetrical helmet, unlike the screen used TK helmets rofl
Here are some pics. It's very subtle to see, but it's there:
Primary view, can see it very slightly, the grin on the right has a lower angle then the right:
And now, a view from a different angle, which makes it much more visible:
I guess it makes it a bit easier for me lol
Will post some more pics later tonight
-TC
Did a bit more accurizing work. Primarily on the eye's and the nose portion. The way it was previously, the rim around the eyes were too thin. So I went back, and widened it up a bit more, and I feel it is much more accurate and overall looks better then before.
The second part was the nose. Was just too thick the way I made it originally. The side profile of the helmet shows the nose is flush with the grin/frown. I am doing a sort of cross between that and a "real world," so there has to be some kind of seperation. So I cut off chunks of clay there, as well as the sides, to help give that depressed look thats prominant in TK helmets. Hard to explain, but lol thats what I mean.
As you can see, Ive started the right side, really, I worked both eyes tonight, and I feel that they look pretty symetrical. The rest though, well, in good time.
-TC
Looking better every day. It looks really angry. The key is to be patient and not rush yourself. Just keep doing a little at a time like you have been and this is gonna be a sweet bucket and costume.
T_bone's right, looks better every time we see it!
Thanks guys! Im happy that you guys like it so far, plus that you get the "angry" look from it as well, Im aiming to give that appearence.
Oh yeah, looks real mean.
Funny about the asymmetrical game model tho.
Oh yea, you wouldnt believe how hard I laughed when I discovered that.
So, I couldn't quite tell from what you posted, but are you going to keep it asymmetrical? Or try to make the frown even on both sides?
LOL I honestly dont know. Part of me is saying "Its accurate to be asymetrical" but the other side is saying "people wont really know about that so I should try to fix it"
:dunno:
Hmm....I gotta fix the eyes a bit more.....
Well I'm willing to bet that they didn't intend for the model to be like that. Just the fault of sloppy modeling, or an error they didn't catch. So what is accurate may not even be what was intended.
But that's all up to you to interpret I guess. If it isn't a huge hassle, try to make it even on both sides. But I'm sure it would just be easier to keep it as is.
Either way, fantastic work! It just keeps getting better and better.
Okay, more work done tonight. Ive decided to try and do my best to make it symetrical. So, this meant that I had to make the right side much thicker, as far as the clay. I think it's actually looking pretty good. Cleaned up and got around to making the frown more defined and finished off the ends of them.
Unfortunatly, I am comming across an issue which I was afraid of initially-at the very edge, where the clay has nothing to hold onto but the paper base, it's starting to detach itself and will hang off. Not sure what Im going to do about that yet, but it's not incredibly serious at the moment.
-TC
Okay, a bit more work on the sculpt tonight, started to move more towards the back on the more completed left side, mainly on the ear cap. Upon further observation, the "com box" has only 4 stubs, where as I originally thought there was 5. The shadowing on the image made it appear as such. So becuase of this, instead of sculpting the box, Im going to be using the one's that came with my FX TK for obvious reasons.
I also started to clean up the back portion, where it merges into the swoop. The lower portions that are not covered by clay, are areas that need to be reinforced with more fiberglass, which Im going to try and do tomorrow. Maybe begin to cut the lower chin portion and make a reinforced wall to begin that section.
I got these in the mail today. I figure I should have these for part of my collection
The newer one is my main focus for obvious reasons. I didnt realize how small this was lol. Although having only a few differences, being the lack of helmet swoop, and a different chest piece, it's pretty much a battlefront DarkTrooper, and the jet pack gives that away, being the same exact design. I *think* the only other DarkTrooper that has the same JJP, is the star wars galaxies version.
For size reference, that's a Dime
-TC
Last edited by tubachris85x; 10-03-2008 at 06:48 PM.
Lol, the one all the way to the left in the first pic of the figures looks more like an old Cylon.
Phase 1 darktrooper, has a giant slasher/sword attached to it's arm :run:
Tried using rubbing alchohol today for smoothing. I originally wanted to get some citri solve, but I couldnt find any at the store. I really wish I did cause, lol it smells BAD.
It actually seems to work pretty effectivly, but I should try to use a heat gun or blow dryer to soften it up a bit. Used a hankerchief, didnt have an old t-shirt to spare, left it looking a bit dirty..oh well
I can say that I feel the left side ear cap is pretty much finished as of right now. The com box in this pic appears higher, but thats due to the angle. I also decided to begin the chin portion. Right now, the left side being more accurate. I may not have to cut the section off, but I will have to for the depression needed for the areators.
For other such details, such as the boxes along the dome and the tear drops, Im having a bit of an issue getting them sculpted into the clay. Im deciding wether or not I will even physically put those details in at the moment.
Anyways, some more pics for ya'll
-TC
Keep going! It's getting really smooth. Looking great! It's really amazing to see how far this thread has come along.
Thanks bro!
lol I dont have any progress right now. Im just taking a break from the helmet sculpt at the moment. I think I might begin the fiberglass reinforcement of the torso pieces I made. Im also going to start sizing up the shoulder bells as well so I can get started on assembling those.
Slowly but surely. Im hoping to try and get some more pieces done, such as getting the OSCS clone pieces as well as getting my MDF bucks formed in ABS as well, but I may have to wait until I finish this helmet, cause silicone ain't cheap!
-TC
(What is this strange thing, called "m-On-eY"? I have never seen such a thing!)
This is one of the threads I have been lurking for a while before officially signing up and I must say that you have been doing a fantastic job. I think one of the things that makes this forum great is the large number of DIY people producing results that exceed anything that comes off the shelves. You sir are well on the way to producing a fantastic bucket.
I hope the lack of updates means you are too busy making some awesome progress to get away from the bucket and get online to show us new pics.
Keep it up TC!
I hope the lack of updates means you are too busy making some awesome progress to get away from the bucket and get online to show us new pics.
Keep it up TC!
Commissions! Daddy needs a new pair of shoes! lol
Dont worry, Im going to get to more work on it soon. Im also going to start fixing up my vac-form bucks cause I may be able to get them formed up sometime around halloween! (maybe!)
People such as yourself keep me highly motivated to continue this project, despite my procrastination lol Thank you very much for your compliments!
Hey all,
I dont have an update perse, but I just confirmed that I'll be able to get my vac-form bucks that I made earlier, formed in black ABS plastic, no styrene for me!
I'm really going to try hard and get more work done on the sculpt, Im just trying to get my other obligations taken care of lol
Just an update.
Due to a certain health issue a week prior to heading to Pensacola (where I was to get my bucks vac-formed) I was unable to finish the molds in time. Trust me, I am very upset about this.......
However, he still is keeping the offer open for the future, which I am happy about, and will try to go through as soon as I can.
I hate to say this, but my original intention to complete this project for Dragon Con will not be met, because I will most likely not be attending dragon con
Ive been talking with someone in the National Guard, and since I am in ROTC as well, I will be hopefully enlisting and signing up with in the SMP (Simultaneous Membership Program). If all works out as it should, I will be going to Basic over summer, therefore, I will obviously not be able to attend D-con.
I apologize for the change, but I have to go through with this or else, I dont know..
Dragon Con is in Sept of '09...
I understand what you are saying. From what I've been told by others, is that they litterally get back the weekend before classes start.
Either way, I cannot say I can attend or not, let alone have completed this suit, because that is about 3 months of time that I will not have. As of right now, I would have to try and finish this sooner, but the next two months will determine whether or not I can get this job.
It won't be much when I sign, but it will be a help to me.
congrats,well done.great form and shape beautiful for a scratch build, dare i say inspirational
this helmet buildup is ridiculously cool
Keep up the good work on this Chris....
We are all watching.
This looks amazing right now. shame you're not going to have the time available to put into it.
It is great, that somebody started build this armorGood luck
Can't wait to see the finished product!
thanks guys
Yea, I just need to prioratize somethings going on with me, so work on this is on and off for awhile. I hope to pick back up with the helmet sculpt sometime after christmas
-Chris
chris i need you to finish. back in the day we were both toying with the idea, and although i shelved my darktrooper progress i haven't bothered to revisit it since you have been doing an amazing job already.
i know you said after christmsas, but i'm rooting for you and i don't want to calm down
c'mon we're both like 6'5-6'7
i cant wait to see this finished. I love this thread. Your progress looks great so far.
*runs and hides*chris i need you to finish. back in the day we were both toying with the idea, and although i shelved my darktrooper progress i haven't bothered to revisit it since you have been doing an amazing job already.
i know you said after christmsas, but i'm rooting for you and i don't want to calm down
c'mon we're both like 6'5-6'7
I know i know! Other then the helmet sculpt, my biggest issue is money for this. For example, I learned how I will convert my chest pep model into a vacuformable buck, but that's going to cost about 200-300 for materials, then I gotta do the same with the back plate.
It's just the money. As for the helmet sculpt, I really don't have an excuse, other then procrastination. I honestly can't work on anything for the next two weeks, cause I don't have any of the pieces with me, and I got other obligations first.
Once I sign with the national guard, I'll be getting steady pay, not much, but then after basic, I'll most likely be able to get more into it, and show actual results for once. I know that's my biggest problem...
Looking Great Tubachris!!!
Chris
Congratulations on all your brilliant work to date.
Best of luck in your new job and I really hope that one day you'll manage to find
the time and funds to return to this fantastic project.
Thanks billhag and Squirrel!
I'm going to be getting back on the helmet sculpt sometime this weeked or next week..Have alot of stuff to do, so I gotta knock out somethings that I was unable to do during the break.
Also..I may be looking for someone I can commission to mold the helmet when it is finished..If anyone is experienced enough and is willing to arrange something, please LMK. Thanks
-TC
Looks good Chris! Here's me in my RC gear with a Pepakura DT on my head.
Last edited by Jangojedi; 01-12-2009 at 09:58 PM.
Looks good Chris! Here's me in my RC gear with a Pepakura DT on my head.
LOL That's awesome bro! Your the only other person that I know that has put one together!
So look what I found searching through some Battefront 3 pics, the darktrooper!!!
Thats really going to help me out once the game is available!
As for my current armor...I am thinking of possibly making a new set of torso armor, I am starting to think what I made is just too big, but I can't say yet. On top of this, I will not as of now plan to be molding these pieces. I am going to use the method that the halo costumers have been using. I'll be fiberglassing the inside, brush resin on the outside, sand, bondo, sand, repeat. I am thinking about pouring casting resin on the inside of it after fiberglassing to make it stronger as well.
I may be doing this method for the thighs and shins, so I can save some money..whatever money I do have at least..
Hey Chris,
Make it big trim down later. The DT are suppose to be large. If you need files of photos, 360 all the way around, let me know. I sent you a PM.
EDIT** You know that is my BOSS gear, from Republic Commandos (PA stuff). I was at a Troop, and a friend from CT.net brought up a pepakura DARK TROOPER to give to me so I put it on. It is really large, but everyone loved it. The face is 15 inches tall, the length is 18 inches long. It is 13 + inches wide.
-Rick
My Grunt white RC
See the size difference, remember the shoulders on the DT are going to be floating upwards and large.
Last edited by Jangojedi; 01-16-2009 at 10:15 AM. Reason: no pic and wrong word
I saw your thread on CT.net, Great work so far on the face sculpt! As for the size, yes, they are big lol, but I may reduce it just for more comfortability factor, but I may keep it as is.
As for the helmet, I'm going to finnish fiberglassing it again today, and then get back to sculpting with the clay. I'll be able to finnish sculpting it, but I don't know how long after that I'll be able to mold it (I'm poor!!!!!)
http://www.chienworks.com/~aramisang...imperials.html
I found this link today. It has a bunch of Dark Trooper pics on it.
Just focus on your 1st model. Take it one step at a time. The $$ will come.
Nice pics LT!
lol I sent ya a PM, but I have the actual 3D model of the DT from battlefront 2, so if you have 3DS max, I can send it to you. It's litterally the ultimate reference for it. I found things on it that I didn't realize using regular screen shots
LOL. Is this response to me or JangoJedi?
lol either one, but the link you provided shows the phase 3 original darktrooper from dark forces...different from what I'm making. You want the model too?LOL. Is this response to me or JangoJedi?
No please send it to me, my email is Jangojedi@yahoo.com. If you were talking to LT, send to me as well, thanks Chris. Let's get it done - DT that is.
Sure Chris. That would be great! PM with my email sent. Thanks!
Boom
Boom
I went ahead and fiberglassed that parts thats needed reinforcement, so I'll have to wait until it all cures and is ready to go again.
On top of that, I began fiberglassing the chest piece I made. I got the upper portion FG'ed, and I am going to wait until that section is cured, so that i can continue the rest so that I will not have any warping. Getting on it!
-TC
Sounds good, can't wait to see the progress. I know you have been working on this for a long time.
Well, I'm not posting any pics, but I've gotten back to the helmet sculpt. I have started the right side of the face, mainly the ear section. I still need to re-inforce the inside a bit more...just frustrating that the added fiberglass did nothing. I guess other then the structural integrity of the base, the hardest part now is making the right ear identical and symetrical as the other.
Couldn't you just shave off the ears, and cast them as a seperate peices? Then you could also hide your mold break under the earpiece as well??
I've thought about that, but I feel that it'd be easier for construction if it was already attached. I know for the TK's, that the gaps between the ears are "cannon," but since this is not a tk, perse, I'd like to avoid that problem. It's just me though.
Got some more work done on the arm vac-form bucks. I'm going to try and get these ready so I can get them sent out to be formed in ABS. I finished shaping the bottom forearm piece, so I may just go back over with some sanding sealer and primer. I also went and drilled the air holes in the upper forearm buck, and tested it out with my vaccum, and I feel it will work fairly well. On top of that, I went back, and wet-sanded the sides, from where I had used the Durham's putty. I noticed that on my first decent pull of the forearms, that I had achieved the high detail of the un-eveness of the sides. I did that with both.
Added bondo to the bicep bucks too, one of them is about 90% done, about 99% after I sand it all down. So thats the current status as of now. I'm throwing in a pic of the chest piece..still need to finish fiberglassing though, just so messy!!
-TC
Looks like some progress to me bro. Nice work!
Nice progress Chris.
And this is why I'll never be an engineer....This was supposed to be 8 inches tall..turned out to only be about 2 1/2...Man I hate scaling on this program :wtc:
My first shoulder pad was big enough for my two year old, the second one I built is huge. But the right size.
lol good to see you had good luck the second time around..the first one I ever built was probably the size good enough for a 12 inch figure, but man, scaling on this program is almost hit or miss.
The defult took the 8 inch conversion and made it only 2 1/2, so I did some more math, and it should be about 65 centimeters based on the set scale..which sound's weird, but should work next time out.
I think the top part of the shoulder for me was 27 cm. It is hit or miss, I wish you could just push print and it would spit it out in my size, covered in ABS filled with foam.
glad to see you at it again!
If it were only that easy
it does that when you own a 3d printerIf it were only that easy
Chris....
i never asked this before..
you're planning to do hybrid suits? vacc'd armor parts and fiberglass helmet?
or are you doing one master helmet and then making vacc bucks later.
vacc'ing that thing would be cheap compared to silicone molding and fiberglassing..
just a thought.. you could make a 3 part dark trooper helmet mold with a set of detail pieces formed on the side.
just tossing ideas out
I must say I'm truly blow away by this thread, excellent work, really inspiring stuff!
Well the plan right now is to keep it within my budget. I figure I can always go back and correct things/improve materials later on. I plan to make the helmet mold, and slush cast them in plastic resin. As for the armor itself, right now everything from the shins up to the ab and arm pieces will be ABS plastic. The shoulder, back and chest will be fiberglass as of right now.
Well not much to report, but I got up early this morning, and finished fiberglassing the chest piece. So that's all nice and sturdy now! However, I soon after passed out and woke up just before the super bowl lol
Going to hopefully be able to do the back armor, but man, there is no clean way of fiberglassing at all
Well the good news is that I was finally able to make the shoulders the right size and it fits me perfect.
The bad news, is what I had feared earlier, that my chest piece is too big. Yep, I just wasted alot of fiberglass
-TC
Chris, sounds like "dremel tool time"; cut here down to size and resculpt with clay (oil or wax based, that way you can pull a mold).
BTW, I will let you know on the forearms.
What do you mean by 'too big' Chris?
Is it a seam issue? or does it expand too far past the side of the chest so that it doesn't have a proper curve.
This by sound silly....but have you tried the idea of scoring and cracking it to the right shape? (only if you've been using fiberglass weave, not bondo)
you might be able to correct your curve and then smooth it out again
just trying to help you salvage your work
This is what I've actually been thinking about, the scoring/cracking thing. My first mistake was that when I fiberglassed the upper chest (the larger flat section) I made it completly flat-it is supposed to bend down the center. So what I'm thinking is cutting a straight line down the center (not cutting all the way through) so that I can bend it the way it's sopposed to be. From that, I'll re-fiberglass it as it sits in the proper shape.
As for the sides..I'm going to have to trim them if I want to be able to salvage them. When the center is shaped after I score it, it should theoretically push the upper portion of the chest closer to each other (in a sense) and I'll be able to use it. But right now, until I can get that bend back into the center, it won't look right. One more thing to add-if you notic, the 3d chest/back has along the edges of the piece, a "wall" to appear thick I guess, but I'm going to be cutting those off to make it appear as the thickness of regular vac-formed armor.
So yea...
Jangojedi-Unfortunatly, I'll only be using this piece as the final chest. I'll be bondoing it, and scuplting the rest of the details via bondo. I really wish I could afford to mold the pieces, but it's just not at this time. I'll update you as soon as I can about the arm molds.
Thanks guys
-TC
Last edited by tubachris85x; 02-05-2009 at 11:11 AM.
I say vac it. Fiberglassing means it will only fit one specific body type.
I definitely agree with GCN, however if it is not in the budget, FG is very cheap. If all you want to do is a one time version. I have made many things out of FG and then pulled a lighter weight and flexible copy. The major problem, that everyone know with that is it will crack and chip everytime you handle it.
Hey Chris I will post some more pics here later today.
I've been watching this thread from the start and I must say this is really impresive. There is not way I would have been able to accoplish this in any way shape or form. Keep up the good work!
The only cheap way I know of to vac-form this would only result in a one time cast, because I can't see it lasting for more then one, maybe two.
:/ If I can talk to my guy whos going to be forming my arm pieces, but even then, I don't think his vac-former would even be large enough for the chest. The way he does his bucks, is that after he sculpts it, he fills the interior of the buck, and the outside with this really dense foam, from smoothon I think, and sands the excess, molds it, and then makes a solid cast in a high strength resin
The foam itself goes for about $90, then pluse the silicone, could be about $150, just for the one mold...so yea..
Very nice work. Gosh soemtimes I wish I had half the talent of some of the people here!
Hey Chris, Here are my pics of my Prototype 1 (FG & gray) 34 cm tall and my Prototype 2 (FG over paper) 28 cm tall. Rc bucket is PA gear, FX Stormtrooper for comparison, what size do you think looks best? I am thinking the smaller one since this will be only an armature to lay some bondo on and sculpt (sand) the face details in & overall smooth out everything.
Hmm...The templates size that I inititially made my pep helmet was based off the height of the FX. I found it to fit me well, proportion wise. I would say use which ever one is best in comparison to your size. The addition of bondo won't or shouldn't make it too much larger, just heavier, really, so I don't think you'd need to worry about that, but that's just my oppionion, it's looking good!
-TC
I actually built one at 30 cm last night, which I am leaning to. I will definitely clay up and sculpt in the detail then take my transition mold. And cast in light FG outer layer then back up with rotocast.
Sounds good man. Either way, your going to have ALOT of room inside. I think the bigger the head you have the better for this kind of helmet. As long as it's not a bobble head lol.
I've been thinking about just casting them in straight slush cast/roto plastic resin. I feel that fiberglass might be a bit heavy, but a light cast might be good. lol I don't seem to have much luck fiberglassing anything, so casting a helmet in it for me might be a miserable failiure rofl
fiberglass should be pretty light Chris, I always felt like any of the 2 part rotoplastics by smoothon made heavier items than those made out of fiberglass
i could be way off though and not be taking into account mods, and range finders and internal stuff.
It can be alot of things, really. I guess the only thing I'd be afraid with when it came to using the plastic resin, is heat warping. I've heard of that happening with some helmets, so I might have to man up and just go with fiberglass.
The answer to that is "it depends". It depends if you use Isotalic resin, lay up resin, etc... some resins actually will never cure, giving the warped looked after a few years. I personally experienced this in laying FG Lamborghini Countach kit cars in the 90's.
But with the micro sphere balls, it will make it light weight and increase the strenghth, but as Combatbaby has said, the rotocast will actually make it heavier. FG outershell allows people use bondo easier on the outer surface.
Shoulders next for bro while sculpting the face, waiting on Fedex for my KLAY.
True that. Smoothing with the clay will really help out though.
In regards to the shoulders, I think I found out how I'm going to suspend the whole thing. Where I see you built the whole underside, I didn't, I found just trying to do it for the smaller ones tricky to get glued in right place.
Sorry for the really bad pic, but you can see how it's sitting on my shoulder. I feel this is sitting in the proper postion, and even if I raise my arm parrellel to the ground, the shoulder bell stays in place, as per reference with the 3D model
Dude, it's the face of God!
But seriously, you can raise your arm with the shoulder piece not raising up? Or am I misunderstanding that... That sounds very impressive.
lol thats exactly what I mean. I might go ahead and take another pic for clarity and from the side so you can see how it's sitting
Hey it looks great. Quick question about the back pack. What did you use to attach the folds from the metal? I mean after the tape that is...
Hmm...I'm not exactly sure what you mean? I'm assuming the vents? For that, I just took a metal vent panel from home depot, cut the strips out, and then used a flat piece of styrene in the proper shape, layed the strips over it, bent the ends over the edge of the styrene and used hot glue to hold it down
Well, I'm doing a modification to the helmet sculpt at the moment. The biggest thing that made me dread working on it, is that the empty space that still exist, the walls, despite being fiberglassed, are still very flexible, and trying to actually scuplt anything is just frustrating and requires more work then it should.
So what I just did, was, well apply more of the expanding foam (I know, I know..) I'm doing it it incriments this time. I'm planning on filling out everything this time so that there will be support from all angles, internally.
Should work....
-TC
How many layers of FG did you use? I personally did one coat, then fiber and then two mor coats and it is holding up to dropping, bondo and sanding.
Here what I have so far, needs lots of work.
I only did about one layer, but I guess that just means I suck at fiberglassing lol
Yours is looking great so far. The only thing that I have to say about it, is that the brow over the eyes appears to thick, but that's just me
Yes, you are right Chris. I always build on the thick side, then after I sculpt in the facial details, which will bump out a little bit, I will bring the brow back. Right now, globs of bondo on there to work with. The brow is not straight if you really look at but that is because I am not in detail mode yet. It is a fun process.
As far as FG-ing, you don't suck. It is a process of doing some things. Like I just figured out how to sculpt with bondo, you glob it on, and then take a cup full of acetone and a paint brush and brush out the high bumps or curlys before it sets up. It is really helps on the sanding time.
Got some more work on the sculpt last night, started to focus on the lower face area. If you compare, I've narrowed both sides of the upside down "U" shape, and have begun sculpting the greeblie in the middle. Unfortunatly, the greeblie detail from my references is only clear enough on the top portion, while everything below that is just "black" and any detail lines are non-existant or noticable. Because of this, I'm forced to interperete the rest of it, so I cannot say that this piece will be accurate. It still needs alot of clean up work though, and I'm thinking about making this a seperate piece until I make the final mold.
Just a side profile to get a better feel of the shapes
-TC
Last edited by tubachris85x; 03-16-2009 at 11:19 AM.
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