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C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

  1. #51
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Trim and cleanup the knees as needed. Included in the kit should be some extra
    white plastic. The white plastic will be the straps and the small clips on the straps.
    We will add the extra items once the foam and strapping system is done.
    For now just trim, primer and paint the knees white. Also in the photo are a set of completed pieces.

  2. #52
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    All of the vaced pieces should be build, primered and painted white.
    We will move onto building the strapping system and other stuff that goes along with these pieces.
    Most of the items below can be purchased at Wal Mart. A complete list is in the PDF tutorial that was
    included with the kit. The foam rubber used for padding is always the toughest item to find.
    I get mine from Orchard Supply Hardware. It comes on a roll and they can trim it to the size needed.
    I get the 3/8” thick stuff and get it trimmed to 24” x 18”.

    Cut out the templates included with the tutorial and trim foam as needed. Save the extra scrap pieces,
    they can be used later. I like to add them to the forarms as well as other pieces.


    Use the white plastic included in the kit and make four squares per attached photo.
    These will be glued to the shoulder bells and thigh’s.

  3. #53
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    We are now going to make the suspenders and apply the velcro to the stomach and cod/butt pieces.
    The suspenders are made with 1” thick woven non roll elastic. Take one package which is 1 yard
    long and trim off 3 1/2”. The remain 32 1/2” will be one of the suspenders. The 3 1/2” pieces will be used
    for the shoulder straps. Using the black heavy duty velcro trim and attach to the end of the suspenders.
    I use super glue here to get it to stick. I have used this method for years and it has always worked well.
    If you are handy with a sewing machine purchase the sewable black velcro and attach it that way.



    Apply the other half of the velcro to the inside of the stomach piece. Also add two large white squares to the
    outside of the piece. Use the photo below for placement.


    Slide the stomach piece into the cod/butt piece. The idea is that you would put the cod/butt piece on first.
    Then you will side the stomach piece in and it will attach and hold together with the white velcro.
    Then the pieces will be held up by the suspenders. The belt would then be put on and hide the seam where
    the pieces come together.


    Now move onto the shoulder straps. Take the remaining 3 1/2” pieces, add a snap to the end of one side and the velcro to the other.
    Don't push to hard when attaching the velcro to the shoulder strap, you may want to move the placement
    later once the suit is complete.

    You will need to find something to attach to the ends of the resin shoulder straps. You will want it to be big
    enough so the straps don’t slide out. I got this rubber for my old place of employment. Your best bet would be
    to hit the 99 Cent store or Dollar Tree. Just pick out something that is soft, spongy and can be cut and trimmed
    easily. Only do the back one for now, we just need it to hold the strap into place. You would then add to the other
    end once the suit is complete. Once this is done the front and back pieces will not be able to be taken apart.


    *If you have NOT sized and cut the chest and back pieces move onto the next post*

  4. #54
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    If you have NOT sized and cut the chest and back pieces hopefully this will help.
    When building a suit, you want the chest and back to fit as tight as it can, but you still need it to be comfortable while trooping.
    The idea is to trim it back where the two pieces come together on the sides. To do this correctly you will need help from another person.
    You will also need to have the stomach and cod/butt pieces assembled.
    1. Put on you black undersuit.
    2. Put the cod/butt piece on, then the stomach with suspenders.
    3. Slide the resin shoulder straps through the back piece. Place back piece into position on you body. Have helper hold in place.
    4. Slide the resin shoulder straps through the front piece. I usually have around 16 visible notches on the shoulder straps.
    5. With the help of the second person, draw a line in pencil where the pieces should be trimmed.
    6. Remove pieces and trim as needed.

    Once sized then finish the back piece by adding the white plastic pieces.
    Add the two white plastic pieces to the back plate. Once finished we will add velcro to them. This will hold the front and back pieces together while trooping.

  5. #55

    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    great details Darren! Can't wait to get started myself with the kid.

  6. #56
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Now we are going to finish the chest and back pieces. Once the chest and back have been sized, finish the back piece by adding the white plastic pieces per previous post.
    Once finished we will add velcro to them. This will hold the front and back pieces together while trooping.



    I always try to line up the top of the curve for this. Once the top is lined up, stick them together. Peel the other half of the velcro and stick into place. Also glue the black plastic into place from the back for the = marks on the right breast.


    I had to trim the bottom a little to get them to set and line up perfect, remeber these were scuplted by hand and small adjustments like this are common.

    This is how the back of the straps will be held into place.

    The front ones should look like this right now.
    * I usually now add the foam padding to the other end of the resin straps now. I am not doing it for this kit because it will be shipped. The final owner of the suit will need to complete this part.*

  7. #57
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    OK, moving right along to the arms.
    First we are going to finish the shoulder bells. Each shoulder bell will have the snap glued down with the epoxy. Don’t forget to scuff up the area before adding the glue.
    Also, once dried add another coat of epoxy around the edge of the plastic. This will need to be really secure for trooping. This will snap together while trooping with the
    the resin shoulder straps. Hot glue the two pieces of foam together and hot glue the 1” black elastic to the bottom. Then hot glue the whole piece to the shoulder.
    The elastic will go under your arm pit while wearing the suit.


    Biceps, hot glue the two foam pieces together and add a piece of the 1” black webbing. This is the same material we will use to make the garter style belt.
    You can also use your mouse sander with 220 sand paper to round and cleanup the rough edges of the foam.
    *Once we are finished with the suit and weathering, we will epoxy this to the shoulder bells.*



    Moving onto the elbows, we will use the black foam, 1” black elastic, white plastic for the straps and small black plastic for the = marks.

    Hot glue the foam together and the black 1” elastic to the bottom. Then hot glue the piece to the elbow. Glue the black plastic to the inside of the = marks.

    Final step is to use the epoxy to glue the white plastic to the elbow.

    Use the 1” black webbing and hot glue to the bottom of the hand backs.

    This should complete the upper half of the suit! We are getting close to the end!

  8. #58
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Moving onto the bottom half of the suit the first thing we will make is the garter belt.
    This made from the 1” black webbing. This is not a pre packaged item. This is purchased by length and is on a roll.
    It can be purchased at some Wal Marts and any fabric store.
    Also pick up a 1” plastic belt buckle. Cut the belt to your size needed and also cut a couple
    of pieces for the garter. I cut my belt at 50” and 11” for the garter. Attach a snap at the end
    of each garter. Loop the other end over and super glue together. This can also be sewn if you
    are handy with a thread and needle.



    Now we are going to add the snaps to the thighs. Scuff the are up and epoxy the snaps
    per the position below. Just as we did the other snaps, add addition epoxy once dried
    for a second coat around the edges.


    We are going to skip past the knees and move onto the calves.
    Apply the velcro to the edges of the spoons. Then apply the velcro to the main pieces.



    The velcro also has a tendency to pull off when taking the suit off after trooping. I like
    to add some super glue to the edges for extra support.

  9. #59
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    I wanted to extend a big thanks to everyone enjoying this thread.
    I currently have this on 4 different forums.
    I got a email for Photobucket that I have exceeded my 10 GB of image use per month.
    I had to upgrade to Photobucket Pro to keep the photo links up!
    Thanks, Darren

  10. #60
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Now we are going to build the knees. Your knees should already be trimmed, cleaned up and painted
    white. Once again, I use this special plastic that I get from my old place of employment. It is flexible,
    strong and paints well. It not something I can purchase, it packing plastic for large sheets of film. They
    just toss it in the trash once the film is loaded so like I said, it’s free. I try to include this plastic in all my
    kits. If you need any please just PM me, I can send you some for free you just need to cover the postage.
    I tried .09 styrene and it did not work very well. I packed my suit for a event. Once I arrived and unpacked
    I found the styrene had snapped on one of the knees. I had to replace the straps once I got back home.

    First, hot glue the tie looking shape per the photo below. This will be your knee pad.

    I use hot glue for all of the foam pieces and epoxy for the plastic one’s. Hot glue the foam in the
    center of the knee. Epoxy the plastic strips to the vacuformed knees. Before you epoxy this strip,
    check to make sure this will fit around your calves. Nothing like building and painted a set of knees then
    not being able to slide them up and over you calves. I have done this before, it’s not fun.

    Hot glue the strip of foam into the knee.

    Hot glue the long strip vertically per below. This is to help keep your knees straight while trooping.

    Take the other strip of foam similar to the one used in step 4 and cut it into three pieces.
    We will hot glue the two smaller pieces to the left and right of the long vertical one. The idea here is to have
    a flat horizontal area to hot glue the next piece to.

    We will continue and finish the knee’s on the following post.

  11. #61
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    I use the 1 1/2” black non roll elastic for the knees. Cut and hot glue to the foam pieces per below.
    You want this to be tight enough to fit snuggly, it needs to hold the knee’s up while trooping.

    Hot glue into place.

    At this stage your pieces should look something like this.

    Now we are going to move onto the small clasp detail on the white strap. I know my version is not
    100% screen accurate and this can be skipped if you like. It is kind of a pain to get his to stick and stay
    into place. It is on the curve and I have had them pop off in the past. I have considered airbrushing
    this detail on. If you do, please send me some photo’s, I would love to see how it turns out.
    Attached below is the best digital file I can find of the detail. I think the outside detail may be different.



    Once glued on your knee’s should be complete. Only thing left if the air brushed weathering which
    will be the last step of the build.


  12. #62
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    I think we have covered all the vacuformed pieces. Now we are moving onto the belt.
    This consists of resin boxes and a rubber belt. If you have the latest version of the belt most of the resin boxes
    are already attached to the rubber belt. This process is done while casting. We have found that if done together
    it makes for a great sturdy one piece design. The back boxes are still separate to allow placement on different
    size troopers. Larger troopers may want to place the boxes further out than smaller troopers. The back boxes are
    attached with screws and washers. I forgot to add the scews in the photo below but are needed for completion of the belt.
    We use two clasps found at Tandy Leather for holding the belt together. A scratch build thermal detonator is then
    clipped on and the clasps are hidden by it.

    The belt may need some cleanup. The extra rubber on the resin can be cleaned up with a mouse sander.

    The belt is around 47” long. For a accurate sizing you will need help with this part. Put on the cod/butt piece and
    stomach piece. Center the belt and wrap it around. This is best done while standing in front of a full size mirror.
    Have someone mark where the center comes together. Double check twice before trimming. Once trimmed the two
    pieces should almost touch. I have about a 36“ waist. I mark my cut line around 9” from the last square on each side.
    The final size of my belt is around 41”.


    Once cut we are going to add the clasps. These are called Buckle Back Ring & Hook 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" and you will need two of them.
    I get these at Tandy Leather. They can be found here on line.
    Tandy Leather Factory - Buckle Back Ring & Hook 1-1/2" to 1-3/4"

    Bend one of the pointed ends over and on the other clasp cut the pointed end off.

    Place clasps into position and mark with a pen. Then drill holes into the rubber belt. Slide rivets in and attach per
    photo’s below. Washers will need to be used to hold into place.

    We will complete the belt on the following post.

  13. #63
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    The belt should be assemble and all the resin boxes should be cleaned up and ready for paint.
    I use the same paint for the belt as I do for the rest of the suit. Gloss White Krylon Fusion for Plastic.
    The boxes should be primered before painting. The rubber belt does not need primer.
    Tape off the rubber belt. You don't need to worry about the rubber exposed below the resin boxes, as long
    as you dont go crazy with the white paint those small areas should be fine.

    Primer the resin boxes. Sorry, I forgot to take a photo here.

    Paint the primered resin boxes white.

    Remove the tape and paint the back of the belt white.
    * It is important here to only use a couple of light coats. To much paint on the rubber will cause cracking
    when the rubber flexes. If done correctly it should look like this. Try painting the back first to get a good feel of how much paint to use.

    Once dried, move onto painting the front.


    When completely dry, we will move onto adding the back boxes. I use two screws and washers for each box.
    Make sure to use screws that are not too long. You don't want them going all the way through the resin boxes
    and coming out the front. If you are using pointed screw there is no need to pre drill any holes. Just go slowly
    and make sure to use washers.

    Well, your belt should be done and your finished version should look like the photo’s below.


  14. #64
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Now we are going to scratch build a thermal detonator. The only piece I include for this is the white plastic.
    I know some people offer these as kits so if you don’t feel like building one please PM me for a link. If you do
    want to build your own you will need to gather these supplies. Pick up some PVC pipe, you will need it to be
    2” size and 10” long. Bankers Clips, I use to be able to walk into Office Max and pick these up. The last time I
    needed some I could not find them. I ended up getting them on Amazon.com. One package is all you need.
    You will also need two rivets and washers (sorry, I forgot to add them in the photo below).

    Cut the PVC pipe down to 8 1/8” and also cut 3 pieces down to 3/8”. Take the plastic included in the kit. Cut two
    large round circles, two rectangles and two small round circles. These piece will be the inset items on the detonator.
    Also cut one long rectangle and 7 smaller ones. These will be for the buttons on the front.

    Trim the banker clips down and round off the sharp edges. Drill two holes in the back of the detonator. I make mine
    3 3/4” apart. It’s always a pain to drill the holes in the banker clips. I use a hammer and sharp screw to get these going.
    Attach the bakers clips with the rivets and washers.



    Take one of the 3/8” pieces of PVC pipe and cut it in half. Place it inside the detonator per the photo below. It’s much
    easier to place the large round circle in correctly with something to rest it on.

    Once glued together it will look like the photo below. Another small piece will be added to the center area. Please see
    photo’s later in the build for this. I just pick a interesting shape to add to it. Like I mentioned before the Dollar Tree or 99
    Store is always a great place to find interesting and cheap items for all sorts of prop projects.

    Mark and add the two round 3/8” PVC pieces to the main body. You will need to cut them in the back to get them to fit.
    This will leave a open section in the back. This area is not seen while trooping.

  15. #65
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    We are now going to attach the buttons to the front of the detonator.

    Super glue the 7 buttons to the long strip. Once dried, attach the competed long strip to the main body.
    Use the magic sculpt to do this.


    Once the magic sculpt has had a full day to dry, clean up and sand as needed. Once finished add primer to the piece.

    Once dried, paint white. Below are the photo’s of the finished detonator.



  16. #66
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Here is a quick recap.
    We should have everything done that was included in the kit. The only items left are the helmet and the boots.

    As you may know, this build will be for sale once finished.

    If you are between 5’ 10” to 6’ 2” and between 185 lbs to 215 lbs this suit will fit you perfectly.
    To sweeten the deal I will also include two helmets and a DC-15 long rifle.
    Please PM me if you are interested.
    The extra helmet is a E3 Clonetrooper and the DC-15 is a light weight 3 piece rifle I purchased years ago.
    Con season is upon us and this suit will be complete and ready to wear with a week or so!

  17. #67
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Before we move on we still need to add some details to the knees, elbows and cod.
    I use primer on these items. The idea here is to give the illusion that some of these areas are recessed.
    The goal is to give these areas some minor but realistic depth.

    First we will start with the knees. I use some 1” painter tape to start with. Center it along the back of the strap.
    Once centered, apply more tape to the top and bottom of the 1” tape. Remove the 1” tape to reveal the area
    we will be painting. Tape and mask off the rest of the knees. Paint using primer. Once dried move onto the small
    areas on the buckle. Tape off and paint the two small lines in both buckles. I guess this could all be done at the
    same time with the back stip but it’s kind of a pain to do together.


    Tape off the recessed area of the cod. I am not sure if this area is gray in the movie. Perhaps only on E3 Clones
    it is gray (see photo below). Paint using primer. Once total finished, we will tone this down
    with some fine sandpaper. The sandpaper step is not done until we airbrush and weather the entire suit.


    Now we are moving onto the elbows. We are going to add two small lines across the staps. Tape off per the
    photo below. Don’t remove the center tape for this one, see below for the final photo’s. Paint using primer.

    Once finished all of your items will look similar to the photo’s below.



  18. #68
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    We are going to make our Clone boots. I must point out I don't supply any of these items.
    I also have to start by thanking fellow 501st member Mike Harrison TC-1536.
    He is the one that came up with this idea and original boot tutorial in which I made my boots from.
    But I must admit, I've made a few special modifications myself.
    The shoes I get at Wal Mart. I choose them because I like the soles. They are inexpensive and run around $18.99.
    While you are there also pick up a some Fabri-Tac. You will only need one bottle. The white fabric can be purchased at any fabric store.
    I am not sure of the what kind fabric this is, I just picked something that was thin and had a nice vinyl feel.
    The size needed is around 14” x 50” which runs around $10.00.
    The plastic straps and buttons pictured below I had cut out on a water jet machine. I would love to be able to offer these for sale but can’t. I don't have
    access to the machine anymore. If you want the PDF files I used please send me a PM. I will send you the files. The files can be printed out and traced onto a sheet of styrene or plastic.
    You will also need some medium size rivets and washers.


    Making these boots is something new and the templates used for cutting out the fabric are not included with the printed version of my tutorial.
    If you want a PDF copy, please PM with your email info and I will send you one. Remove the laces and tongue from the shoes.
    Trim out the fabric from the templates.

    I started gluing the first two large pieces down when I realized I forgot to add the small piece of stretch fabric
    to the opening of the shoe. This does not need to be white, black will also work since this area get covered up.
    You might have some extra left over from the suit build. Super glue this piece per the photo below.


    Now we can start gluing the fabric to the shoe. Start by applying a large amount of glue to the inside
    of the fabric. Use the Fabri-Tac for this. The more glue the better. Wrap the fabric around the back and have
    it meet up per below. It's important to cleanup any excess glue while its still wet. Once dried it thought to get off.


    Now add the front piece that goes up front. You will need to stretch and hold this down while the glue sets.
    Once dried, clean up all the way around the shoe. You can do this with a exacto knife or dremil. If you use a dremil
    make sure to wear a mask. The toxic fumes that come off the rubber soles are just terrible.


    We will finish up the boots on the next post.

  19. #69
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Moving on, we are now going to add the upper front strip and the two small boxes.
    The upper part of the strip must be trimmed down for you foot to fit in properly.
    Try the boots on right now and trim as needed. Also glue the small box to the top of the
    big one and then glue them to the boots.

    Now we are going to add the fabric to the inside of the straps. First use a heat gun and curve
    the straps to the desired angle. Once done, super glue the cloth to the inside of the straps.
    This area takes a lot of punishment while trooping so I also add a bead of hot glue around
    the edge where the fabric meets the plastic.

    Once completely dry, we will now attach the straps to the boots. Find the center of the straps
    and drill a hole in each side.

    Put the boot on and place the straps into place. Keep in mind that you will need to be able to get
    these boots on and off. If the strap is too far back, your foot wont fit. Have someone help you
    and with a pencil mark the holes. Drill the holes in the boots.

    Once the holes are drilled cut out the foam inside of the boots where the rivet will punch through.

    Using the rivets with washers attach the plastic strap to the boots. Once attached I always add
    a couple of drops of hot glue to the inside of the shoes over the rivet and washer. This is just to keep it
    rubbing up against your foot while trooping and causing any problems.

    Since the rivet is now in place, there is a small bump from it on the outside of the strap. Drill a small
    area to allow the button to fit flush against the straps.

    Super glue the button pieces to the boots.

    If done cleanly, you really shouldn't have to paint the plastic areas. The boot will get airbrushed and
    weathered later.

  20. #70
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    OK, now we are going to cleanup and build the helmet.
    In early 2005 C6 and I attended Wonder Con if San Francisco. C6 wore his newly completed E2 Clonetrooper. While trooping he was stopped by a employe of Lucas Film. The employee was blow away by seeing a Clonetrooper walking around. He told us that he loved the suit. He also mention that he asked George to make 5 suits that could be photographed and taped. I don't think they wanted them for the film but to help out the animation crew. Unfortunately no helmets or suits were ever made by LFL.
    The C6 helmet was the first fan made E2 helmet. It was build with the idea of it looking like the CG ones in the film. With that being said, it has a neck ring on it that no real person could ever put on. Since it’s built this way you have two options. One remove the lower part of he helmet completely. Two is to keep the helmet intact but cut it to pop apart and then put back together again.
    What I am going to show you is how to cut it apart, add magnets then be able to put it back together keeping the neck seal on the helmet. C6 is the first person to do this and I am going to show you how it’s done.

    First we are going to cut out the visor area. I use a hacksaw blade for this. I also cut one of the rounded corners off to create a sharp point.

    Once removed clean this area up. Keep in mind that the visor will need to fit cleanly inside this area. Cleaning up the inside of the visor area is extremely important for the visor placement. You want it to fit flush against the inside of the helmet. The visor will be installed at the last stage of the helmet build.


    Knocking out the holes in the mouth area is the next step. I use various tool for this. I use a drill first to get them going then a dremil to get them close to the desired size.
    I use a set of small files for the cleanup.

    Now that those two areas are done, I cleanup the rest of the helmet. The helmet is created using a two piece mold. Since it is a two piece mold, there is a seam line that is needed to be cleaned up. I use a mouse sander for most of this cleanup as well as various grades of sandpaper. Sorry no photo’s of this being done.

    In the movie the fin area has a red blinking light. If you plan to run lights in you helmet a hole must be drilled from the inside of the helmet to the fin area. Now you don't want to go and start drilling into your helmet, if you did there is a good chance of the drill breaking through all the way and coming out the top. What I do is to take 4 popsicle sticks. I glue two of them together then slide them into the fin from the back. Now find a nice area in the inside of the helmet that looks like it will line up with the fin. I use several different tool on the dremil to get this to work. The popsicle sticks should help you in realizing when you have reached the inside of the fin. If done correctly the last photo below is how it will look.




  21. #71
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    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Now we are going to add the Magic Sculpt to the inside of the helmet. I purchased the bigger size but if you are only building one suit and helmet the smallest size will be enough.

    First thing is to figure out where you need to cut. Keep in mind that if you don't make the hole big enough, you will not be able to fit your head in. Mark the cut line with a pencil.
    Once marked, use some heavy grit sandpaper to scuff up the area inside the helmet. The Magic Sculpt will stick much better if this is done.


    Weigh the Magic Sculpt, mix and apply to the inside of the helmet. The Magic Sculpt can be smoothed out and cleaned up with water while it is still soft. Smooth out as needed. Once done, it will need a full day to completely harden.
    See photo below for placement.


    Once the helmet has set for a day the Magic Sculpt should be dried enough for cutting.
    Start by working along the seam of the helmet. Get a nice grove worked into the white resin. Find a good spot and work it until you beak all the way through the Magic Sculpt. Once this is done, the rest should go a lot easier. I work on both sides of the helemt first.


    Once both sides are cut I then cut the area below. Disregard your hand drawn line and try your best to split it up the middle.

    Your finished helemt should look like the photo below.

  22. #72
    DW Design's Avatar
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    Mar 2003
    From
    Modesto, California, United States
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    811

    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    The helmet has been cut and now we will add the magnets.
    I have built helmet using only 8 magnets but sometimes you may need more. If you need to order more the can be purchased here. I use the D42-N52. The size is 1/4" dia. x 1/8" thick.
    K&J Magnetics - Products
    Pick 4 or 6 spots where the magnets will go. Mark these areas with a marker. We are only working with one of the two pieces of the helmet. Use your drill to make the holes. I like to start with a smaller bit then work up to my final size which is 1/4”.

    It is important that the magnet fit into the hole properly. It needs to be level with the Magic-Sculpt.
    It it is to high or low, it will cause major problems with the pieces fitting together properly.
    It is also important that the magnets are all going in the same direction. I like to use tape to help get the my first set glued in properly. The tape just helps with keeping the magnets all facing the same direction while gluing.
    Use Insta-Cure and Insta-Set to glue these into place.

    Once all the magnets are glued into the base, now you will need to mark and glue the other magnets into place. Its always tough getting the placement holes correct to match up. I color the magnets with a marker, then place the chin into place. Hopefully the mark with transfer and this will help with placement. Once you are happy with your reference marks, drill the holes the same way you did before.
    IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO GLUE THE SECOND SET OF MAGNETS IN THE PROPER MAGNETIZED DIRECTION.

    If done correctly, you will have a freestanding helmet that is held together firmly with the magnets.

  23. #73

    Member Since
    Jun 2011
    From
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    2

    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Great work so far! I'm really happy I found this thread, and can't wait to save up for one of these armour sets. I could suggest that if your buckle detail on the knee strap keeps falling off, you use methyl chloride (resinbond) to secure the styrene instead of superglue.

    sabs

  24. #74
    DW Design's Avatar
    Member Since
    Mar 2003
    From
    Modesto, California, United States
    Posts
    811

    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    Moving right along now we are going to primer and paint or helmets. I am also going to paint a E3 helmet along with the E2 helmet.
    First we will primer the helmets. If you see any problems here, now is the time to fix them. You may need to do some more sanding or use some spot putty or Bondo to clean up any blemishes in your helmet.
    Once the helmets are primered and looking good, we are going to paint them white. At this point I tape out everything that will be grey on the helmet (with exception to the mouth area).You will need some good quality painters tape for this.

    Now we will paint the helmets white. Since the E2 is now in two pieces you will paint them that way. The photo below show the E2 as one piece but I did not put it back together until the white paint was good and dry.

    Once the white is good and dry we will move onto the black areas and the grey mouth. Tape off everything that is going to stay white. Make sure when taping to do a real through job. The black has a funny way of sneaking into the small areas that are not taped of very well.

    Paint the mouth area’s grey and after they dry, tape them off.


    Paint the remaining areas black.


    Once dried, remove the tape and see how it turned out. Don't worry, any small area’s with black overspray can be cleaned up with some fine sand paper.

  25. #75
    DW Design's Avatar
    Member Since
    Mar 2003
    From
    Modesto, California, United States
    Posts
    811

    Re: C6 Clonetrooper tutorial and build from head to toe!

    sabs said: View Post
    Great work so far! I'm really happy I found this thread, and can't wait to save up for one of these armour sets. I could suggest that if your buckle detail on the knee strap keeps falling off, you use methyl chloride (resinbond) to secure the styrene instead of superglue.

    sabs
    I will have to give that a try!
    Thanks, Darren

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