Thanks for the tip Darren. I'll do a search!
Thanks for the tip Darren. I'll do a search!
Is this the same type of Fiberglass Tape?
I purchased this in Walmart instead of Tap Plastics.
It's a little different but it may work. I would try it out and let us know how it goes.
Darren, the fiberglass tape you use is not sticky at both side, right... So the 2-part epoxy can be easily applied... Faroshuffle's tape is just like most of the scotch tapes with one side sticky and that is most i found locally as well... Which one is better, the sticky-at-one-side one and the one you use... besides, how wide is the tape gonna be...is the 25mm wide one ok or more wider ones are needed...
I plan on testing it out this coming weekend...hang in there guys.
thanks, bud, that is great
Wow you really are putting your blood sweat and tears into these but effort is really paying off.
Keep up the great work.
Moving onto the remaining items that need to go seamless we will begin to
work with the thighs, forearms and biceps. Same as the calves we will try to
cut or sand a straight line on one of the two halves. Once one of the two seams
are looking good, tape it up and start on the second side. Use a pencil if need
to help with this process. The photo’s below show a set of unassembled pieces and
a set of finished versions.
Here is a closer look at the biceps. The back of the biceps are always a little thought
to get to line up. Don't worry, this can be fixed when we add the epoxy and fiberglass tape.
OK, now we have all the seams cut it time to start adding the insta-cure (super glue), epoxy and fiberglass tape.
Use masking or painters tape to tape all the part together. Add super glue to the inside seam.
Use the insta-set spray to help set the insta-cure.
After dried, add the epoxy and fiberglass tape to the inside seam. Then add another coating of epoxy to
the top of the fiberglass tape. Remove the masking or painters tape from the outside and fill in any gaps with epoxy.
Wait about a day and then sand the outside seams. Once seam is sanded add Bondo to outside seam and try to
cleanup and low spots or remaining blemishes. Sand and cleanup as needed. I use a Mouse Sander for this step.
Sand and prime the seams as needed. You may need to add more Bondo. Another great item to use
is Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. It good for the smaller holes. The nice thing is ready to use right out of the tube.
No mixing needed. This can be purchased at Wal Mart or any automotive store.
Once your seams are getting close I like to use Dupli-Color Filler Primer. This is a spray primer that I
have only begin to use recently. One of my R2 builder buddy’s suggested it.
It is a kind off expensive but it works great.
It can be found at automotive stores and costs around $8.00 per can.
Once again, keep sanding and priming until you are happy with the seams.
Once finished you should have a pile of parts that look like this.
Take the two primered calves and spoons. Round the spoons off with a good size lip around the outside.
I like to use a large lip on the spoons. If you trim too much they will not hold well while trooping.
Trim out the trap door on the calves.
Now place the spoons into position. Draw a cut line for the spoons. Once again, I like to trim my calves
way up. It just more comfortable for me while trooping. You may want to experiment a bit on yours.
Finished trimmed pieces will look something like this.
Cod and butt pieces. This piece consists of a vacuformed front and back. It also needs a piece of
plastic. This piece will be glued to the top of the butt area. The only reason for this piece is to keep
the back of the chest from slipping under the cod/butt while wearing the suit.
On the finished piece I have the right side connected with a pop rivet and
the left is connected with a nut and screw.
I always cut the front of the cod down. I usually trim about a 1 1/4” off.
Cleanup is always easier with a half round file.
Drill holes in both the front and the back pieces on both sides.
Check position and fit now with the use of screws and nuts.
This should fit snugly on you while wearing your black under suit.
Glue the plastic sheet to the back as shown. Use your epoxy for this.
Round the top edges to help of the glued plastic piece to hlep keep from getting poked while trooping.
Here are some finished photo to help show how it should look once assembled and painted.
The stomach section consists of two different sides and a center piece. I also try to include extra
plastic to put behind the holes in the center section. It's not necessary to drill out these hole but
I prefer the depth that this gives the piece. Below is a photo of the kit pieces along with a finished version.
Use a drill to punch out the holes then clean up with a small file. I don’t add the extra plastic pieces
to the part until I am finished priming the final completed piece.
The center stomach section needs to be raised up higher than the two side pieces.
This is so you don't see any black under suit while trooping.
It help with the contour of the chest piece which curves up in this area. You will have to mark and cut a new trim line for this.
Using the epoxy glue this center section to the two side pieces. You should only do one section at a time
and allow to dry completely before moving onto the other half. I like to use large clips to hold the pieces
into place. Sorry, I forgot to take a photo here.
Once the center piece is good and dry we will now add the magic sculpt to the seam. Bondo will also work
here. I prefer the magic sculpt because it takes longer to set and can be sculpted with water while its still soft.
The magic sculpt will need to dry overnight. Once dried you can sand as needed. Once sanded, primer the piece.
Use epoxy to glue the small pieces to the back side. Your piece should now look something like the last photo attached.
Today we are going to work with several different pieces for the suit. The shoulder bells, hand backs and finish
working on the right forearm.
The shoulder bells are fairly straight forward. Cut and sand the edge to get ready for the primer.
The hand back are the same, cut and sand as needed.
Now we are going to add the resin compad to the right forearm. Place the resin piece approximately 3/4”
up from the front along the inside seam. Add the magic sculpt and cleanup as needed.
Allow the magic sculpt to dry then sand and primer as needed.
Well at this point we should have more than half of the parts trimmed,assembled and primered.
We have worked on the calves with spoons, thighs, cod and butt, stomach, shoulder bells, biceps, forearms and hand backs.
This should leave the knees, belt, thermal detonator, chest and back, and elbows.
Here is a quick recap. We have the calves with spoons, thighs, cod and butt, stomach, shoulder bells, biceps, forearms and hand backs all painted gloss white. My preferred paint is Krylon Fusion for Plastics. I use the Gloss White and it can be purchased at Wal Mart for around $4.35 per can. I have already used around 6 cans at this point in the build. Next we will move onto the chest and back pieces.
Hey Darren... question about connecting the cod and but together... you have it bolted temporarly... do you think a chicago screw would work? I could cap the outside end by epoxying the correct sized snap "cover".
OK, we are moving onto the chest and back pieces.
They consist of two vacuformed parts, two resin shoulder straps and one resin drop in plate.
I also use a couple of white sheets of plastic and one small black piece for the back of the = marks.
First, clean up the pieces.
You will have some vac holes and double images in these larger pieces.
When cleaning these up you will need to do some extra work.
Here is the best way I can describe the two issues.
One, small holes in the vacuformed pieces.
The holes are caused by the mold. The larger molds have holes in them to help with the vacing process.
When you stretch the plastic over the larger molds they needs something to help with the suction.
The smaller molds don't need holes in since they not very tall. Stuff like the hand backs are only about a 1" in height.
The chest and back molds are 12" or 13" tall and almost the size of the 24” x 24” vac table.
The holes can be filled with bondo or magic sculpt from the outside then sanded clean.
Two, shadow areas on the vacuformed pieces.
The shadow or double images are areas that can be sanded down. This happens when you lower the hot plastic on the mold. It leaves a indention from where it first the hits mold. Then the plastic gets stretched around to the final size and the vacuum is turned on. This is done in a matter of seconds but the first image still can be seen in the final piece. Usually the bigger the piece, the more you see the double images. Use your mouse sander and 120 sandpaper to knock it down then smooth it out with 220 sandpaper.
Now trim the sides back on the edges of the chest and back piece. You will want to leave as much as possible for now. Once assembled you will need help from someone else to mark you final trim lines. This will need to be done with the cod/butt piece and stomach pieces on.
Now we are going to add the = marks to the right side of the chest plate.
I have create a template for this. It also has the = marks for the elbows.
Please PM me if you would like a PDF version of this.
First, trim the paper down to the corner marks.
Then turn the paper over and color area with a pencil.
Tape the paper into place and draw a circle on each end of the lines.
Remove copy then darken and connect the lines.
Remove plastic between holes.
Clean up as needed.
Once piece is total finished we will glue the black sheet of plastic to the inside of the chest.
Now we are going to cut out the area for the shoulder straps to slide into.
This is done by placing the end of one of the straps on the vacuformed part.
Then trace the area which will be cut out. After that I like to add about 1/8” around the traced area. This will be my trim area.
Using your dremil cut out the two areas furthest apart then connect the holes per your pencil marks.
Test the opening with the resin strap. Trim and cleanup as needed. I should slide freely.
Do the same with the back section.
We are going to now add the resin drop in plate to the back of the piece.
You will usually need to sand some area of the resin piece to get it to fit properly.
I sanded 1/8” off the top of this one. I then cut the four corners out of the recessed area of the vaced piece.
This allowed me to glue the resin piece into place. I use the epoxy for this.
There is no right or wrong way to do this, you just need to get it secured into place.
Reinforcing your chest and back pieces.
All plastic is not alike. I use .125 HIPS but the consistency sometimes tends to differ from order to order.
Some vacuform better than others. Like I said in a previous post, the chest and back
are the largest pieces on the suit. They are stretched more per square inch then any of the others.
If you troop a lot you may want to reinforce your suit. My first and most used suit has cracked over time.
If I had thought to reinforce these areas then it would have saved me from fixing them back up later.
My cracks appeared on the curved area’s below the shoulder straps on my original suit.
I went ahead and reinforce more areas on this one. I must say, they feel much more sturdy now.
I used epoxy and fiberglass tape for this.
*DO NOT ADD THE FINAL PLASTIC PIECES IF YOU HAVE NOT FINISHED SIZING YOUR CHEST AND BACK PIECES*
I will create a separate post on how to do this.
If you HAVE sized up you suit, then finish the back piece by adding the white plastic pieces.
Follow the directions below.
After the epoxy has dried you will add the two white plastic pieces to the back plate.
Once finished we will add velcro to them. This will hold the front and back pieces together while trooping.
Once finished. Primer and paint the pieces as needed.
Last edited by DW Design; May 17, 2011 at 6:34 PM.
this is a great tutorial. I have been sharing with my son. ;-)
Moving onto the elbows, trim and cleanup as needed. Included in the kit should be some extra
white and black plastic. The white plastic will be the straps and the black plastic will go behind
the = marks.
Print out the template that was include in the clonetrooper tutorial. This will give the placement
of the = marks.
Just like what we did on the chest marks we are going to use a pencil to transfer the marks to
the vacuformed parts. Color the = from the backside and trim out.
Tape the marks into place. Use a sharp pencil to transfer the marks.
Drill the end holes out.
Once the holes have been drilled, erase the pervious line and redraw them in. Use the holes to connect
the line. This will give you a cleaner trim line.
Cut and cleanup as needed.
Once finished they should look like this. I have droped the black plastic in the left one to show how it should look.
Primer and paint as needed but we wont and the black behind the = till later in the build.