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  1. nolekhan's Avatar
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    Jul 28, 2012, 11:37 AM - Checking in from Houston #1

    So I just realized that I never posted one of these when I joined last year, I just starting looking for gear. My bad. So I'm a recent graduate who just moved to Texas last year. I have a TR, an IC, and the pieces of a TK. Last year I picked up a Jango bucket, did some filling cause it had some damage, and now want to do this thing. Any help would be appreciated, I'm a complete amateur at building/crafting.

    The seller (active 501st member) said it was an Asok fiberglass. Does this mean that it is not a helmet with metal powder and that I will need rubb n buff?

    Pictures, thanks.

  2. Mullreel's Avatar
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    Jul 28, 2012, 12:06 PM - Re: Checking in from Houston #2

    That is a CC helmet but it looks like someone chipped away at it. You can sand and polish this one to a great shine, if it hasn't been chipped up too bad. The seam line across the helmet will disappear. Hit it with 0000 steel wool to start and then go to progressively higher grit wet/dry sand paper.

    I have done 4 of these helmets so I am familiar with them. That spot right above thee brow is common on the older casts. I accidentally chipped one once. It can be filled and sanded out, then touched up with rub n buff. The spot that would worry me from your pics is the middle of the dome. Is there something going on up there?

    Also Asok only made a very few in fiberglass, most of the time he uses resin. If you bought this from Tony then it is for sure a FG, I know he had one at one point.
  3. nolekhan's Avatar
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    Jul 28, 2012, 12:13 PM - Re: Checking in from Houston #3

    The top of the helmet seemed to have some flash which was cut away but too deeply. It had to be filled and sanded smooth. That spot will need touch-up then, but thankfully will be hard to spot by most people. See below for pictures of top.

    I bought this from a Chris.



    Last edited by nolekhan; Jul 28, 2012 at 12:58 PM.
  4. Mullreel's Avatar
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    Jul 28, 2012, 2:03 PM - Re: Checking in from Houston #4

    It may be a FG cast but I would have to see the inside to be sure. You can always send Asok a PM and ask him.

    You will definitely need some R+B to touch up the top. I would start by sanding and see what you end up with. Start with 0000 steel wool then work your way to 400, 800 grit wet sanding. Once you get to that level you will know where you stand as far as those problem spots. You can find the higher grit sand paper at Walmart in the auto section.


    I am a Chris is in the 501st btw........but I didn't sell that one..lol
  5. nolekhan's Avatar
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    Jul 28, 2012, 11:17 PM - Re: Checking in from Houston #5

    Photo of the inside below:

    This Chris was from the West Coast, not a fellow Texas trooper.



    Last edited by nolekhan; Jul 28, 2012 at 11:39 PM.
  6. Mullreel's Avatar
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    Jul 29, 2012, 12:14 AM - Re: Checking in from Houston #6

    That is definitely one of his in FG. He only did a few of them, cause the FG was harder to work with than the resin. I does look like he was able to make the walls just a bit thinner with the fiberglass.

    As you work on it feel free to hit me with any questions, like I said I have worked on several of Asok's casts now. I have one in the closet that I am about 75% done with and really need to finish.

    Here in Texas you should be able to find your paints you need at Walmart (Rustoleum Royal Blue) and Hobby Lobby (Krylon Shortcuts Ocean Blue). You can also get the rub n buff at Hobby Lobby.
  7. nolekhan's Avatar
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    Jul 29, 2012, 1:16 AM - Re: Checking in from Houston #7

    So don't do the wire/sandpaper route, just R&B? I grabbed the right paints...last year. Interesting question: does spray paint have an exp date? Suggested primer?

    I'm going to simultaneously work on this helmet and finish my TK helmet, so I can cut, prime, and paint both without moving tools. Hope to get to work on it this week.
  8. Mullreel's Avatar
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    Jul 29, 2012, 1:43 AM - Re: Checking in from Houston #8

    I would go ahead and sand it to as nice of a finish as possible. Then when you hit the rough spots with the R+B you have the nice shiny parts on as much as possible. If you were to just do the R+B you would still want as smooth as possible surface to put it on.

    And no your paints shouldn't expire. They should be fine.

    The first Asok I finished I did not use a primer at all. The other ones that I have done I have primered the painted areas before the first coat of paint. I think the paint layered a bit better with the primer under it. Of course I did not put primer on any of the cold cast areas.
  9. nolekhan's Avatar
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    Jul 29, 2012, 12:39 PM - Re: Checking in from Houston #9

    Thanks. Looks like some people prime under the r&b, other don't. I might prime after sanding, then sand some more just to keep it smooth.

    I'll post pictures when I get some work on it done.
  10. nolekhan's Avatar
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    Aug 5, 2012, 12:57 PM - Re: Checking in from Houston #10

    Is it me, or is the bucket getting shiny? Need..more..elbow...grease.

    Also, I accidentally made the key slot flush. Going to try some tricks with black paint and weathering to create the illusion that it is deeper.

    Current status:







    What I think is a cool photo:

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