My armor attempt and helmet question

I guess I'm new here, well not really, I had an account but forgot the password and the emails password...fail on my part. Never posted with it anyways. Anyhow, I'm not quite sure where to post this, but I'd like thoughts on my armor so far. I just have the chest pieces done using WOF's jango templates.

The center diamond is matte black like the rest of the chest pieces, but the flash did weird stuff.
This is unpainted made of out 1/8(or 1/16 dunno off the top of my head) sintra. I attached it to my vest, made of black light canvas, using steel bolts and grommets. I'm not planning on adding LED's to the armor, but as I said I'm going to paint. I'm thinking of a black/silver color scheme.
My question is actually about the helmet. I'm a 5'3 female (yeah I know I don't look it). I'd like to make my own helmet, but I'm not sure how to go about doing that. I was wondering if you could fiberglass over a thick paper (like cardstock) and get a reasonably good looking helmet, or if you'd have to use a more durable starting form.
Any advice would be great.
Thanks,
-Kiff

Hiya, with the helmet as long as you fiberglass the inside and put a thin coating of resin to seal the outside, you should be fine, the thing about using cardboard is that when it gets wet the layers begin to split and the helmet warps, so if you sweat in it the fiberglass and resin will protect it.

You will however need to sand the oputside back as you will get "paint" streaks in the resin.

As for your armour, take a look at your left chest plate, it seems out of alignment.

Antman did some great cardbuilt helmet "tutorial" here:
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/show...-Cardboard-Scratch-Build?highlight=card+build

For your helmet, remember to seal it with polyurethane or a similar sealer first (spray type) as the paper will absorb the fiberglass resin and usually warp.

Note: dont mix urethane epoxies with vinyl resins, they dont play nice at all and make a useless mess.
An elaboration on Saz's advice:
Inside:
1) Seal bucket
2) Use epoxy putty on sharp bends in the bucket for reinforcement (on the inside). You can avoid warping this way by pressing a thin straw's worth along these sharp bends in the helmet. Be sure to put something rigid like a popsicle stic on the opposite side of the helmet as you press the putty onto the paper to preven warping and bending.
3) let putty set (20 mins?)
4) Brush on a layer of fiberglass resin. Let it harden and do another layer.
5) do a regular fiberglass "laying" into a third layer of resin and follow that up with a 4th final layer of resin on the inside.

Outside:
You might need to use body filler in certain places but be frugal and work in layers, its far easier to take time and work in thinner manageable layers than to work in big glops that need more effort to sand and such. Keep in mind mixing and pot times for your materials. Sand between layers is the trick for smooth finishes.
1) bondo in areas that need it, look at antmans tutorial, usually its the dome part that need the bondo. Dont go overboard.
2) use glazing putty (usually in the same section as the bondo) its a better filler for the bondo/fiberglass buildup, dries quicker with less shrinkage YMMV.
3)Sand, glaze, sand, repeat. My custom build projects will use about 4-5 layers of glazing before i get a surface thats what i really want.
4) Topcoat, there are two options here, fiberglass resin, or laminating epoxy. The laminate epoxy, if applied to fully dried glaze/bondo will give a thicker coat but takes DAYS to dry. You will likely only need to use 1 coat of this if done properly. Fiberglass can dry in a few hours but is thinner and trickier.

Tips on the laminate and for fiberglass:
Sponge brush a thin layer onto the peice and then once coated, pour your material over top the peice and smooth the resin over the peice with the same sponge around the crown and down the rest of the bucket. Be sure to elevate the peice on something so you dont wind up fiberglassing it to the properly protected table or bench you are working on. VENTILATE PLZ.

Tips for just fiberglass:
Fiberglass "gels" as it hardens and becomes "gloppy" ones it starts to gel, stop using it, fiberglass dries very hard and is a pain to sand out if you get these glops on your piece.

Tips for just laminate epoxy:
Laminate epoxy is incredibly sticky and holds a surface well, and levels very nicely. But it takes a few days to harden completely and is not as hard as fiberglass when it does harden. The bonus here is longer pot life and a thicker coat on initial work.