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  1. Buckeye_01's Avatar
    Member Since
    Nov 2005
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    669
    Apr 4, 2006, 11:46 PM - Resin parts and tacky paint #1

    Hey gang,

    I have a slight problem with my blaster. On the backside of my stock bracket (non-grip side) the paint will not dry. It remained tacky for over a month with my last paint job. I had more work to do to it, so I sanded it down to bare resin, and washed with warm water and dish soap. I thought this would cure the problem. I also thought it may have been some crappy paint, so I went to a different store and bought a fresh can of krylon primer, and flat black. About a week ago I applied 3 heavy coats of primer on the entire blaster and I allowed it to dry for almost 5 days. The primer was still a bit tacky when I shot the flat black. I put 4 coats on it, and the handle is once again tacky! It has sat for 2 days now, but the paint refuses to dry! I haven't applied my satin finish yet, nor have I weathered it. I am hoping it will dry once it is weathered and sealed. I doubt it will, but its all I have right now. I posted my progress in the blaster forum and Ripcode thought it may be a poor resin mix that is preventing the paint from fully curing. This is the only spot on my blaster that won't dry, and obviously it's the area that will be handled the most. I don't mind my gloves getting paint on them, but it's one of those things that is buggin the be-jesus out of me. If anyone has any suggestios for me, by all means let me know.
  2. fettpride's Avatar
    Member Since
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    2,654
    Apr 5, 2006, 12:26 AM - Re: Resin parts and tacky paint #2

    Quote Buckeye_01 said:
    Hey gang,

    I have a slight problem with my blaster. On the backside of my stock bracket (non-grip side) the paint will not dry. It remained tacky for over a month with my last paint job. I had more work to do to it, so I sanded it down to bare resin, and washed with warm water and dish soap. I thought this would cure the problem. I also thought it may have been some crappy paint, so I went to a different store and bought a fresh can of krylon primer, and flat black. About a week ago I applied 3 heavy coats of primer on the entire blaster and I allowed it to dry for almost 5 days. The primer was still a bit tacky when I shot the flat black. I put 4 coats on it, and the handle is once again tacky! It has sat for 2 days now, but the paint refuses to dry! I haven't applied my satin finish yet, nor have I weathered it. I am hoping it will dry once it is weathered and sealed. I doubt it will, but its all I have right now. I posted my progress in the blaster forum and Ripcode thought it may be a poor resin mix that is preventing the paint from fully curing. This is the only spot on my blaster that won't dry, and obviously it's the area that will be handled the most. I don't mind my gloves getting paint on them, but it's one of those things that is buggin the be-jesus out of me. If anyone has any suggestios for me, by all means let me know.

    Does the first and second "Primer Coat" dry completely? If they do, then it is very possible you are applying too many coats of primer AND base, or that each coat is too heavy, and you're not giving the paint room enough to "Gas Out", or not waiting enough time in between coats.

    If this is not the case, you may have an area on rifle that continues to sweat. Urethane Resin can "Sweat" after it is cured, especially if it was older resin/contaminated before it was poured. You may have to take the bottom of the stalk and soak it in mineral spirits or acetone for a while before you try and paint it again. After stripping it again of course

    If all else fails, you may have to go to the extent of "grinding" that area out, and replace it with body filler, and repeat the paint process. This is an extreme case of course, but I've had to do it from time to time myself. You're essentailly removing the "cancer", so to speak.


    Hope this helps ..


    FP
  3. Buckeye_01's Avatar
    Member Since
    Nov 2005
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    Apr 5, 2006, 11:19 AM - Re: Resin parts and tacky paint #3

    FP,

    Thanks for the response bro. I did let the primer and paint dry about 45 minutes to an hour between every coat. I am beginning to think the resin has/had something wrong with it. On the flip side of that, the back side of the bracket has dried fully. I have been considering having someone cut me one here at work (out of alum), but haven't ponied up and asked yet. This may be the straw that breaks the camels back, BUT the blaster was fully assembled when I bought it. I may be getting more than i'm asking for if I start trying to 'break' this dude apart. Once again, thanks FP, you have been very imformative.
  4. Ripcode's Avatar
    Member Since
    Nov 2005
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    2,268
    Apr 5, 2006, 11:34 AM - Re: Resin parts and tacky paint #4

    Quote Buckeye_01 said:
    I have been considering having someone cut me one here at work (out of alum)
    If you don't want to go the pricey route cut one youself out of slab of PVC.

    Prymer13 did that on his scratchbuilt blaster. I'll see if I can find that thread.

    Here we go:

    http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/showthread.php?t=10782
  5. Buckeye_01's Avatar
    Member Since
    Nov 2005
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    669
    Apr 5, 2006, 11:41 AM - Re: Resin parts and tacky paint #5

    It would be free, but having him chuck it up in our CNC machine and draw it up may take some time. I may have to buy him lunch one day and butter him up a bit
  6. Ripcode's Avatar
    Member Since
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    2,268
    Apr 5, 2006, 11:46 AM - Re: Resin parts and tacky paint #6

    Quote Buckeye_01 said:
    It would be free, but having him chuck it up in our CNC machine and draw it up may take some time. I may have to buy him lunch one day and butter him up a bit
    Well heck if that is the case, I'd get the aluminum one!
  7. Sidewinder's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    444
    Apr 5, 2006, 1:44 PM - Re: Resin parts and tacky paint #7

    I had a weep on a resin part once, cleaned it with meths and then used Tamiya acrylics, brushed on. No stickyness after that.

    SAS

    Quote Ripcode said:
    Well heck if that is the case, I'd get the aluminum one!

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