Just wondering if anyone knows of a resin casting supplier that sells quality resin for less than $75.00 a gallon for the 1:1 ratio kind. I looked on the net, and no answers on the RPF. Anyone have any clues? Tanks.
Printable View
Just wondering if anyone knows of a resin casting supplier that sells quality resin for less than $75.00 a gallon for the 1:1 ratio kind. I looked on the net, and no answers on the RPF. Anyone have any clues? Tanks.
http://www.smooth-on.com/plastics.asp
Great stuff! Their Smooth-Cast 300 Series is only $60 a gallon.
They've got a HUGE range of resins to choose from too:
http://www.smooth-on.com/liqplas.htm
Cool Thanks sooo much.Have you used it yourself? and Do you know what the curing time is on that? I didn't see it on the site.
Yep, I've used it. I think the cure time for the 300 is spec'd at 10 minutes, but it varies depending on how thick the piece is. I've had GREAT results with it and have no complaints yet.
EDIT:::
If you want to try it out, you can buy sample packs of there products too. It's a great deal.
Did you try the 320 series at all? or just the 300? I would rather depend on your opinion than go through all these samples and shipping costs, since I have a large amount of stuff to get done soon. Wow, 10 minutes is fast, the micromark brand I've used is a little longer, but not by much.
The 10 minute stuff is good but you have far less time to work out bubbles. If the casting you are doing are small then it should be fine and it does make for a lot faster casting process. If the casting are bigger, then I would go for the slower stuff. I think the 300 series has a 20 to 30 minute set up time. It takes longer but the air bubbles have a lot better chance of escaping. Good luck and I would definetely go with smooth-on. They are fast and have a great customer service.
Thanks, I'm gonna go with the 30 minute curing one. 10 minute curing could really make us go frantic. :wacko Heheh Thanks a lot. Both of you are an awesome help.
Exactly what Spidey said...go with the longer cure stuff. You can't go wrong with Smooth-On. :) (sounds like a commercial)
Going Right on... with smooth-on! :)(Commercial #2) One gallon ordered. Gonna get those greeblies a crankin... Thanks again!
What products from Smooth-On would you guys recommend to make a small, flexible mold? I need something of the silicone/Urethane variety to make a mold of a small (2" x 5") part, and then I need (preferably) some sort of epoxy resin to cast it with.
Suggestions? :)
Actually, the silicone molds from micromark are more flexible than the GI1000 stuff, but still great. It was really easy to get our casts outta the micromark 1:1 ratio kind. http://www.micromark.com You can tell a difference though, the GI1000 is great for multiple use, cause it's more durable, it has a ratio, so you will have measuring problems to deal with, but a bit on the higher scale of quality silicone. Not sure if we've used smooth-on for our molding material.
What would you suggest to actually cast the part with? I'd prefer something easy to work with and durable. This part will not be under stress, but I'd like it to survive light abuse withour crumbling. ;)
Smooth on also makes RTV that is good for casting parts. It is real easy to work with. There is the RTV and a catalyst that you mix together in a (10:1) ratio. If your part needs a two part mould then its a little harder but not much. Each side takes a day to cure out but its worth it in the end. They make different types of RTV depending on what application you are using it for. The best thing to do would be call Smooth-on and tell them what you are trying to do and they will help you out with the right product.
this is a stupid question How do u make a resin or cast of something like for example a helmet?
okay - i want to make the tippy top of the jet pack rocket with resin.
Can I just pour the smotth coat 300 into a cone shaped paper cup and let it cure?
Would that work??
Do I have to brudh the insode of the cup with mold release or does it not matter since the paper cup is disposable anyway?
Im a complete resin novice - let me know?
LMK -
Sean
Mold release is your friend. I have never tried a paper cup, but I am sure that resin would stick to it unless you have mold release or just plain vaseline... that would work. You have to be careful of spilling resin everywhere, paper cups are pretty pourous.
Another thing about resin you need watch out for is getting on your skin. I have found that after months of working with the stuff, every time it touches my skin, I break out in a nasty rash.
Lesson learned: Wear gloves and have lots of paper towels handy :)
I ask myself this question. I’m pretty sure, this is one of the biggest challenges for a costume, but what do you want to use for the mold? The Don Post BF Helmet? Only the 95' version is good enough and they’re very rare. I have a 97’ which tends to develop warping and is not a good basis for a resin copy.
The Rubies looks horrible, keep away from it!
Check this out, it’s affordable!
http://www.skygunbros-custom-creatur...sizeprops.html
If something is a resin cast what does that mean?
One of many things. There are polyester resins that are used for fiberglass, and there are polyurethane plastic resins that a lot of prop makers use for casting. Polyesters are either clear or yellowish clear in color, and the plasitcs are ususally white or beige. Hope this helps some.
How strong are they if there is no fiberglass?
I've found polyester to be very brittle on its own. If you drop it or drill it, good chance its going to crack.
Polyester is rarely used for cast pieces, though. In large quantities, it gives off so much heat as it cures that it tends to ruin the mold it's in, as well as distort itself. Too much in one batch can start an exotherm and catch fire. (No, really- I wanted to see it for myself, and mixed up about a half a quart and left it in a paper cup. It started on fire and made a horrible mess.) Usually, "cast resin" refers to urethane-based casting resins, which are the white or bone colored resins previously spoken of. Urethanes are very strong and durable.
I got a solid resin custom blaster that is made from resin and i cant get any kind of paint to stick, you can scrape it right off, I have not tested rustoleum yet.
Any suggestions for paint?
Have you washed and cleaned the blaster with good hot soapy water and rinsed it well before painting???Quote:
cal196 wrote:
I got a solid resin custom blaster that is made from resin and i cant get any kind of paint to stick, you can scrape it right off, I have not tested rustoleum yet.
Any suggestions for paint?
You have to wash resin parts to remove any mold release agents as will not let paint stick to well.
I would also prime the peice with grey auto primer before putting the main color coat down.
Lynn
What HE said! :DQuote:
Quote:
Have you washed and cleaned the blaster with good hot soapy water and rinsed it well before painting???
You have to wash resin parts to remove any mold release agents as will not let paint stick to well.
I would also prime the peice with grey auto primer before putting the main color coat down.
Lynn
I havent washed it but I sanded a spot pretty good and sprayed it, and didnt have any luck. but I will try washing it.
After washing, try painting with Krylon fusion. I know it only comes in gloss, but you can paint over it.
Did you try using a solvent like mineral spirits to clean it?
I used the krylon touch and it seems to be holding up, its not scraping off. I did clean it with a mild paint thinner so maybe that helped.
I had the same problem with my gauntlets I got in a hurry and didnt wash them off and the paint didnt stick at all.
Thanks for the advice.
Fusion comes in flat also.Quote:
judz dwedd wrote:
After washing, try painting with Krylon fusion. I know it only comes in gloss, but you can paint over it.
That's great! I havn't seen it yet, is it new?Quote:
bowjunkie35 wrote:
Fusion comes in flat also.
Wal-mart $99 acylic enamel did the job. I bought that fusion stuff, I tested a spot and it never set-up after 4 days it was still tacky so I thinnered it off.
I definitly do not recommend it for resin.
maybe if you take glue, and paint it over the surface it will stick.
just a thought, cause the glue will stick, and most likely not come, off I'd just let it sit for alittle while, then put primar on it, then see if the paint sticks.
looks around... I get mine for 25.Quote:
Zam I Am wrote:
Just wondering if anyone knows of a resin casting supplier that sells quality resin for less than $75.00 a gallon for the 1:1 ratio kind. I looked on the net, and no answers on the RPF. Anyone have any clues? Tanks.
Is it possible to reshape resin objects with heat?
To a certain extent yes, dependant on thickness.
I've done some experimenting with heat on Sintra and PVC.. how tolerant is resin towards heat ei.. does it "brown" and "bubble" easily?
btw. the thicknes is only 2-3 millimeters ( 1/10 inch ?? )
Try soaking it on hot water for a few minutes.:)
Has anyone every worked with Castin' Craft Polyester Casting Resin? I was wondering, because I saw that I could get a gallon for pretty inexpensive. Thought I'd ask before buying. :) It's about 42.00 a gallon, just FYI.
And do all Resins need a catalyst to cure? Just curious, because this brand does.