right been reading several thread over the last few days here and on RPB. also reading the TDH wiki.
my question has to do with slush casting a lid. most of my projects are at he planning stages only but already doing research into the next stage and methods
I will be referencing the smooth on products just cos then I have some reference frame for comparison and its available in UK
I know abt the silicone vs latex argument; and making mother molds then a outer case with plastikote/FG
I'd like to thank stormtrooper guy, stormrider, FP, asok, evan... and DangerRuss for their threads. ANd every1 else who has posted over the last 2-3yrs whose names I may have forgotten.
my question are really abt the casting part.
from wot I gather FG used to be the only material availble in the past; but is a pain to use and not that great for ur lungs. WIth new liquid plastics - slush casting seems to be the way forward.
question 1 - does any1 still do gel-coat/FG for surface + resin (ie rotocasting) backing? reason I ask is yrs ago; before I knew better, bought stuff off the internet which was FG only (main item is a imperial guard lid). Want to work on these bad casts but the FG alone feels really flimsy. I alos like the smooth finish of roto cast on skin. would it be advisable then to put in 1-2 layers of smoothcast320 between the FG and roto? Also - the FG is well cured stuff, will smooth on roto-cast stick to the FG, or will there delaminatin problems?
question 2 - was following DangerRuss Briareos lid build. his layering involved sandable surface, shell shock, 2 layers resin, then 2 layers FG. Would lover to use this methods as it sounds like a really sound belt-and-braces method. But wot would u other more experienced prop builders think? is this be overkill?
question 3 - some people were going to experiment with shell shock; but heard it was too brittle. has every1 given up the idea of using shell shock then?
question 4 - is the accepted standard slush cast method (i understad diff people have diff products, no. of layers and methods of doing this) - mix something like smooth cast 320 in a required volume. Swirl it round. build layers up. Heard 1/8" smooth cast 320 and finishing off with rotocast should be strong enough for a helmet.
question 5 - of the smooth on products - wot do lid makers use? I hear the smoth cast 320 is strong but flexible and holds paint well. would that be a (very) genral gist of it? I have heard that some UK guys recommend that stuff from Tiranti (forgotten name)
question 6 - was following asok's cold cast DP WIP, and he mentioned cold-cast layer, then 3-4 rotocast layers to the lid. Wot are peoples opionion regarding roto-cast vs standard smooth cast?
question 7 - Does any1 like using FG alone still? Or is FG more or less relegated to fixes and re-inforcement to lid interiors then? only minor exposure to FG with car repair, and dont like the stuff tbh. And being in UK with horrible weather, small garage and little kids abt would rather not use it.
I guess at the end of the day I will have to experiment myself; but just afew questions that swirl abt my head. Hope I havent bored every1 and thanks for looking